CGCWO

Waiting on testing. Hope to get that done tomorrow.

Started blowing smoke badly and has no power under throttle. It idles fairly decent but has a miss that we haven’t been able to diagnose. Also I am wanting it to be a true daily driver and occasionally a long hauler. Wanting this one to be around for a long time. I know I’ll have things that need to be worked on hell it’s 34 years old, but I need it reliable. I’ve got all the wiring except the AC sorted and fixed along with the majority of the suspension and brake system.

Good points, I can get it shipped for free. I won’t be doing the work myself (I don’t have the tools, skills or a garage to work out of) and have a reputable shop that will stand behind the install. I am looking all in at around $3800 which also includes rebuilding the AW4.

Has anyone used a Dahmer Reman long block?

You hit the nail on the head with that statement. For what it’s worth I replaced the injectors with BOSCH 746 a month or so ago when I was redoing the fuel sending unit and pressure regulator, but I guess I could have one that went bad.

So Little Blue isn’t happy with the C1 delete. Well at least the #5 injector isn’t. REMII is giving me a Open injector on #5. Tested the injector plug with my multi meter and get the same readings as on #3 and 4. So I am thinking it might be the injector it’s self. Going to trace the wires to double check my splices on the C1 delete first.

Well this turned into an all day job. Got the new o-ring in an then went on to check the wiring on the TPS again since it seemed the engine would stumble occasionally and was very labored under load. Found the wiring issue and decided while I was there to go ahead and delete the C1 connector. Several hours later it looks like this. Also looking more and more like I am going to have to re-build the engine. The more I drive it, it has started to smoke and seems to be getting worse. Jeep Comanche the gift that keeps on giving. Re-building the engine is going to suck without a garage, guess I’ll have to figure out a way to pull the engine and to get it into my little shop. Or bite the bullet and have someone else do it.

Big day for Little Blue, 10 plus miles around the neighborhood and a trip to the gas station for a fill up. Got home to find the O ring on the gas tank is leaking after filling it up all the way. Guess I’ll pull the tank to ensure I get it in correctly. Glad I bought a transfer pump so I can siphon the fuel out.

Excellent due diligence.

Really nice looking 2 dr Cherokee on FB Market Place in GA.

New thermostat, radiator, alternator, re-used power steering pump, gauges all working except water temp. Moving forward. Took it out for a short drive this afternoon. Still need to do rear wheel cylinders and some more brake bleeding. Trans is shifting kind of hard, another trans fluid flush is in the future. Alternator is now charging thanks to the fix provided by @Greentoy. Also have a new trans filter to go in during this flush. Need to check the wiring on the euromatic B pillar lights as they aren’t coming on with door switch.

Followed @Greentoy s directions and now I have a charging alternator! One difference I had is no yellow wire to small diagnostic block. I used the red wire instead. *Correction: on the 87 4.0 Renix use the orange wire, Again use the orange wire. I came out to a dead battery after the truck sitting for a couple of days after I used the red wire.

I am having the same problem with my cluster swap in the 1987 4.0. I will be installing a new higher amp alternator since I’ll be adding a winch in the future. Going to give @Greentoys fix a try if the new alt doesn’t charge.

So I wasn’t an EM or ET was BM and struggle with wiring. I just did the cluster swap on my 1987 4.0 and have run into the same problem. I am going to PM you regarding your fix.

I’ve not had any issues so far.

Few more items checked off the front end list. Adjustable/quick disconnect sway bar links and heavy duty track bar installed. Also pulled the valve cover for cleanup, new gasket and to check valves for movement. Valve train looks supper clean.

I’ll have to look into this when my new Alt arrives later this week. Thanks again for all of the knowledge!

Positive it’s a bad alternator, the more I run the truck the lower the voltage output is. When I stopped messing with it yesterday it was down to 9.7 on REMII and close to that on the cluster gauge.

Yes

Anyone using this DB alternator on a RENIX 4.0? Application list says it fits. https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/alternator-high-output-160-amp-4-0-jeep-cherokee-87-88-89-90-wagoneer.html Now that I have the REMII and full gauge cluster I noticed today that I am only seeing 10.5-10.9volts on the readings. Checked the battery readings with a bolt meter it shows 11.7-11.9volts. Also pulled the positive cable and truck dies. So thinking it’s time for a new alternator?

Surprisingly the actual wiring harness connector was in really good condition.

Thought I’d share this here for more eyes. If you having interior lighting problems you should definitely look at replacing your headlight switch. All my exterior lights worked perfectly, but courtesy lights and dash light were non-existent. Changed out headlight switch and fixed all the interior lighting problems. I did change out the door courtesy switches and they work as they should now with the new headlight switch installed. Here’s a photo of the old switch.

Photo of old headlight switch. Lower right side shows missing tab location.

Dug into my door lock problem to replace the lock cylinder. Got everything apart to realize the local parts guy sold me the wrong lock cylinders. A bit frustrated, but went ahead and put everything back together until the correct lock cylinders come in. Went to work on the cluster swap and was checking wires under the dash to see if everything was correctly connected. Went to get my $30 magnetic flash light and couldn’t find it anywhere in the shop or the truck. Took a break to get a drink and remembered I used the flashlight while working on the door lock... guess where the flashlight is now and will stay until the new lock cylinders come in. Yep inside the door...ugh!

New headlight switch. Old one was pretty nasty and had a tab that was completely gone. I’ll try and get a photo USF I didn’t toss it already.