comanche09

Thank you! I checked that site before and it didn't list a Comanche hitch when you search by make and model. The part number works though!

While we're on the subject... I have a H.O. Lower box in place of my old renix lower box. Eliminates the silly air duct from the exhaust manifold and vac lines/ door. Snaps in place under the renix top. :thumbsup:

Hornbrod, thanks for the link Geonovast, thanks for the tip! I was worried I got a bent knuckle or axle...

Hey all thanks for the replies and the great info! I wanted to avoid flaring if at all possible. FWIW, on my '88 the only odd fittings in the proportioning valve are the two inputs from the master cylinder. The front and rear lines going out of the block have 3/8" fittings at the block and at the calipers/wheel cylinders. So I was able to pick up the pre-flared 3/16" lines with 3/8" fittings. I used a 60" section for the pass side and a 20" for the drivers side. The 20" was too long so I put a loop in it, definately could get away with a 12". There were grommets in the inner fender and once removed the hole was around 3/4" in diameter, plenty enough to get the fitting through. It ain't too pretty but it works. :thumbsup: Hope this helps someone :cheers:

Got my new to me D30 installed but have a problem with the front wheels. When drivers wheel is straight, the passenger wheel is turned to the right about 5 degrees. So I jacked up the front end and cycled the steering wheel back and forth a few times and now the passenger side wheel is straight, but the drivers side is turned to the left about 5 degrees :huh???: If it helps any, I haven't tightened the control arm bolts yet and I used all the steering linkages, springs and the entire track bar and bracket assembly from the donor (97 XJ) Help

Hi All, Just wrapping up my D30 axle swap and get to the brake lines.... Stripped the nut on the drivers side where the hard line meets the soft. :wall: :mad: They are rust welded together. Vice grips slip. The passenger side nut looks in the same condition. I've decided to replace the hard lines in front all the way to the proportioning block. I've never double flared a brake line and don't want to go there at the moment. Question 1- Anyone know if the nuts are the same in the proportioning block as at the hose (3/8 x 3/16)? They look the same. If so... Question 2- What lengths do I need to pick up? The drivers side looks about 16", but there is not much room by the prop block to coil any extra... The passenger side goes along the firewall and looks pretty long. Please help, getting ready to go to the part store... Thanks!

Pulled off my front axle today... Going to pull nearly rusted through oil pan tomorrow and replace the oil pump and maybe tackle the RMS Here is the old axle, behind it the 97 D30 and 97 8.25 (D30 going in tomorrow, 8.25 later) "New" junkyard oil pan :cheers:

Scored some WJ lower controls arms and a mint Wagoneer woody dash bezel from the boneyard. James, I'm diggin that look!

+1 And you can do it pretty cheaply too. I removed the stupid heater core valve, plugged the vacuum line and plumbed direct with 5/8 hose. Really cleaned up the passenger side of the engine compartment. :thumbsup:

You need this setup (weight distributing hitch) to level out your rig:

Check out this link: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=932958&highlight=HEADER

Hit the JY again today to feed the MJ addiction... Found a '90 XJ with AX-15 and NP231!!! But it was completely covered/caked in mud/ dirt... Not sure of the condition and the shifter was removed and looks like some dirt got down in the tranny... Should I grab this??? Any idea on how to easily clean it to get it unbolted? (in the JY) Picked up a 27 spline driveshaft yoke, 97 XJ Oil pan, color matched vanity sun visors and GM lighted rearview mirror...

In the past week: -Scored complete '97 XJ Dana 30 and matching '97 29 spline Chrysler 8.25" rear end w/3.55 gears from JY for under $200. :banana: -97 XJ mirrors and door weatherstripping installed. -97 XJ Windshield washer reservoir installed. -New walmart Pioneer front door speakers installed. -JY Headlight Sentinal installed (cool, my '08 KK has this) I also confirmed that this was available as far back as '84 XJ (Cherokee Chief in the yard had it) -JY fog switch installed (w/o rear defogger button)

Yes, smooth on the inside. I wanna say I've seen something like this before too... :hmm:

Very Cool, I'm guessing that kit is NLA though... I want to add cruise too though it seems to be a bit more difficult with the Renix era trucks. I noticed from looking at the rigs in the boneyard, that the cruise equipped trucks have a bigger vacuum bottle in the bumper (cylinder shape vs. smaller globe). I don't think it matters what manual trans you have. If i can get all the parts together, I will do a writeup :thumbsup:

here's another one: funny :popcorn: http://jalopnik.com/339332/the-1987-jeep-comanche-its-manly-and-cheap

Sounds pretty fair. I try to compare prices to what my local u-pull would charge... ($125 for a complete 4x4 front axle) and of course only buy from someone who is selling for less. I am goin to acquire a Dana 30 complete from a guy off of craigslist for $50 including springs, rotors etc, only it has one bent knuckle... I got my MJ from CL

I installed the Wal-mart blazer fogs a couple weeks ago... The OEM chrome bumper I got from an XJ had the factory fogs mounted in the outer holes. I fulled the fog harness and relay too so that I could use the factory switch. I went with the Yellow Fog light version (and they were a couple bucks cheaper). I got them to fit the in the holes without modding a bracket. I just loosened the bumper to give as much room as possible. It is tight and they are up against the grille. As previously posted, they will be a b*tch to adjust, but I play with the angle prior to fitting the bumper up. They do take care of that unlit space just in front of the truck and work as advertised. They are also H4 bulbs.

That is Awesome! :yes: Where did you buy that? I want one My local Honda dealer had a poor XJ hanging from a 100 ft crane during that rediculousness... Drove by it every day on the way to work. :wall: :headpop: :(

LOL, yeah it ain't pretty ... It is an optical illusion, they are not plumbed together but they run close to each other just prior to going into the proportioning block. There is about 1mm of clearance with the washer bottle believe it or not. I took a heat gun to the washer tank and pushed it in so its not bent in from the lines! If you notice I also moved the washer bottle forward a bit make room for the booster. That is the only place there is contact, between the booster and back of the washer tank.

Interesting, I'll have to check those out. Please post your install with pics if you can! Anyone done/consider LED bulb swaps for the taillights?

This cluster came from a V6 Cherokee, the old GM 2.8L, so in theory the tach should work with a 4.0 I6. The cluster is also made in the USA. Interestingly, all later clusters are copies of the shell and made in Japan. IMO the new font gauges really don't fit the old style of our trucks, which is why some of us desire the "old blue" font. Yes, the two electrical plugs in the back are identical in configuration to my 88. However the speedo cable was the metal clip type (mine is plastic) and the speedo cluster housing itself is not moulded to fit my 88 speedo. I looked at just doing a face swap but they are riveted on the old cluster, plus the tach sweep is different so there would be accuracy issues. Hmm, I should just plug it into my truck and see what happens with the rest of the gauges... I just get alittle nervous with all this reconnecting and disconnecting of my plastic speedo cable.

Well I grabbed the blue cluster from the JY: It was out of a 1984 Cherokee Chief 2dr 2.8L V6 4x4 Command Trac Unfortunately, I could not swap my speedo because it is mounted differently, same goes for the tach, unable to swap either way. Looking closer at it, it would seem that someone with some electrical knowledge (i have little) could figure out how to make it work. It is pretty neat though. Here is my current gauge setup: While playing with all three gauge sets, I figured out that I could swap my original temp, oil press and voltmeter into the tach cluster. At least i'm looking at mostly blue old school font gauges.

Does anyone have a pic of this gasket? Is it the one at the back of the hood on the cowl??? Mine is dry rotted, no leaks in the cab yet, but maybe soon... If you have a u-pull yard near you, you should be able to find a servicable seal for your bulkhead connector from an XJ.

Yes, exact same length when you use the aluminum spacer on the engine bay/firewall side. Be sure to grab it when you get the Booster. Without it, my pedal would have been a bit higher. While your at it take the pedal braket too. (It is somewhat of a PITA to change the bracket as you have to remove the lower dash panel, disconnect clutch pedal and clutch pedal to brake pedal bracket bolt, gauge cluster (to access the two 15 mm top bolts). (EDIT: Just noticed you have an AW4, no need to deal with that hard to reach clutch pedal bracket bolt) Not hard just time consuming. As you found out, the 97+ rod is way too long. You want a non-ABS booster/master from a '95 or '96 XJ (these are the only two years that are mostly plug and play) I got all the brass fittings and brake lines (2, 20" long 3/16 standard thread lines, part no. PA-320) to do the swap from Advance Auto Parts. Hope that helps!