kyleag89

Unbelievable what were you thinking?! :rotf:

Ok I am a fool... I tore up half the floor the other day to fix a small rust spot and when I put the seat back in I pinched a wire for the 4x4 indicator light! I spent 9 hours tracing wires trying to find the short when it finally occurred to me to check the floor. :doh:

Thank you hornbrod! I saw that ground but I wasn't 100% sure it was in the dash light circuit. The ground checks out and I added another ground but it still pops the fuse. I am at a loss and the dash is going back together without any lights.

Can someone tell me where the dash lights ground? I have a wiring diagram but it doesn't specify where the grounds are located.

Anyone? I am replacing the headlight switch today hoping for the best.

Forget about the brake light, I had the turn signal on with the key off and that prevented the brake light from working. And no I don't have the dimmer switch off.

I have all the lights working properly now. The dash illumination fuse pops when I turn the headlights on and it also pops the exterior lights fuse. So both fuses are popping, if I leave the dash fuse out the lights work no problems. So now these two circuits have to be connected by something for them to both blow. The only thing I can come up with is the headlight switch. Is it possible for the switch to function the lights but not the dimmer? Maybe there is a short in the switch itself causing the illumination lights to not work?? I am lost, confused, and very aggravated. :fs1:

Tonight I get in the MJ and turn the lights on and poof the fuse for the dash illumination pops. So I put a new fuse in then the parking lights/ tail light fuse blows! As of right now I have the two fuses in and they aren't blowing, BUT now I have no dash lights and the drivers side brake light doesn't work. I can turn the headlights on and all the parking and tail lights are on as normal but the dash lights are still out as well as the drivers brake light. Any ideas? I forgot to mention the bulb in my clock blew out also so I disconnected the clock thinking it had a short somewhere but still no change.

I've had death wobble on two Mjs and they were both the same thing. The steering box and the track bar, after I replaced them the steering was perfect again. So after you check all the items philbert listed and IF you can't find anything moving then I would replace the steering box.

After cleaning the caliper I can sometimes crack the bleeder screw and press the piston back in with some BFPs. I did this twice before with calipers that were seized and they worked fine.

Odds are very good! lol I have about 10 bad delay boxes right now. Its hard to find one that actually works and there 86 bucks new.

Try just leaving the intermittent black box out and just plug the two wires together first like jeepsouth said.

Thanks for the info. :cheers:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/84-01-Je ... ccessories

Ok, so once I get the old bushings out the new ones simply can be pressed in without any special tools?

Buy some 2" spacers off fleabay from blacktunaroll for $40 shipped. Then buy some chevy lowering shackles for $40 at autozone/o-riellys and be done with it. The white MJ in my sig has this combo with 31s.

Its walmart man! lol

I thought the bushings needed to be pressed out and pressed in? Thats why I would rather buy the whole assembly new than have to mess with 22 year old bushings.

Ok thanks.. I will be replacing old stock with new stock CAs.

Can I just remove the LCAs and bolt new ones in their place without worrying about alignment? Is it as simple as unbolting them and bolting in new arms? I had the axle side off last week but never touched the uni-body side. The bushings need replaced so I am just buying new arms with bushings for $35 each.

How the heck does someone get pinned between a car and dolly? :dunce:

My father sold his 88 in 89 after owning it for 1 year because he couldn't shift with the baby seat in the way. I am still reminded to this day why he had to sell his MJ. :chillin:

There should be two phillips screws and then you can pull it out.

Thanks guys I'm heading to MA this morning so I will be buying everything when I get back.

Thanks, are 2 3/4" u bolts the correct ID for the D35? I know they are 1/2" diameter by about 8" long for an aal.