kyleag89

I would replace your control arm bushings at least the lower ones. If you don't want to mess with trying to change the bushings you can buy the whole arm and bushing for $30 each. My MJ did this exact same thing but got bad enough to give me death wobble.

These control arms were just replaced 2 months ago with OMIX brand from team cherokee. The other day I noticed that the bushings are not centered and slid out of the arm itself. I now have death wobble AGAIN for the millionth time! :fs1: I am soo furious right now. Passenger side with good bushing looking the way I think it should? Image Not Found Drivers side obviously not good?? Image Not Found

Thank you

I saw a member here that made a website on all the OEM jeep wheels used and the specs on them. Can someone help me with the link? I can't seem to find it Thanks!

I already have a set of stock JK sport shocks. I'm not going to buy rubicon shocks.

:doh: idiot

Try rockauto.com

I read on Jeep forum that stock front shocks off a JK swap onto the MJ for 3" lift. Is this correct? What about the rear shocks? My father has a set of brand new factory shocks off his 2011 JK that he is mailing me. He put an OME lift on it before it had 100 miles on the odometer.

I am running 3" skyjacker coils in front and an AAL in the back. My front tires(31x10.5) on aftermarket rims with 5.5" BS still rub in the same location as the OP.

Most likely needs a new trans.. Even if it was an electrical problem at one point once it starts slipping its over. I would check the 2 or 3 plugs(can't remember) by the firewall passengers side to make sure they are clean and tight. AW4s can be picked up cheap on craigslist $150-$200 and swapped in a few hours.

If you insist on lifting more than 2-3" than I would recommend buying the Hell creek rear springs and then buying your front parts piece by piece to match the rear. I found it is much easier to lift/level the front to match the rear after its lifted.

A headache rack huh? Did they make something that fits good on an MJ?

Gotta love how the poster puts it has new rims in the ad(like we couldn't tell) but can't tell you what engine, transmission, etc or anything useful about the truck! :shake:

CPS as Akula said, this will cause the truck to just shut off. Next time it cuts out and won't restart immediately check for spark. If there is no spark then it is most likely the CPS.

Cap the egr valve off disabling it and see if it still dies. Disconnect the vacuum line going to it and cap everything off. DO NOT buy another egr valve thats a HUGE waste of money!

Clean your throttle body paying extra attention to the IAC. Also check your EGR valve sticking as this caused my 89 automatic 4.0 to stall when downshifting.

I left my charcoal canister in for the fuel tank venting/smell seeing as how it isn't really in the way anyway. For the EGR valve you can remove it and make a simple plate to block off the hole, or just leave it in and plug the line coming from it. There is a rubber elbow that comes off that can be plugged with a small machine screw and some rtv(and point it down so you can't see it unless you know its there). There is also the vacuum port coming out of the intake in the front, I simply take a piece of hose and loop it connecting the two ports together. My egr was sticking causing an extremely low idle when cold, after disabling it my idle went up to 1,000rpm so I had to turn down the idle screw a hair.

I know it should be obvious but my doughnut gasket at the header leaks a little bit and will "tick" just as you describe. It is more pronounced when cold and at a low RPM almost lugging a gear as I have a 5spd also.

Before the AAL I could only get about 1,000lbs in the bed. I have about 1,500lbs of scrap metal in it now and the leaves look great.

As long as you don't need to pass emissions like pete said you can remove them all. I have all my vacuum lines plugged and my egr blocked off. Cleans up the engine bay a bit and makes changing the air filter a lot easier. :wrench:

Haha that is true, but luckily I came out of this one with only a small piece of skin missing off my hand. :wrench:

Nice pic! What a huge difference from the 4x4 to the MT springs. The 2nd and 3rd leaves are longer too.

That is A LOT of leaves for a MJ! :eek:

I got em out!! :fs1: Large pair of vise grips and a breaker bar with a pipe for more leverage did the trick. For anyone that has 2-3" of lift up front the 93-96 links worked perfectly. My sway bar now sits level with 3" because they are 1 inch longer than the 89 links.

My stock sway bar links finally broke, and there only 22 years old!? :rotf: So I bought some new links for a 93+ XJ so they are longer for my 3" lift up front. I can't get the old rusty bolts free that mount the link to the axle so I have to cut them. Has anyone run into this before, trying to find the correct bolts to replace them? My problem is the stud that is supposed to be splined and pressed in is spinning.