benjy_26

Cool. You didnt find that it took a lot of the passenger's leg room?

Hello all. I'm in the process of running some new wiring in my Mj, and I was wonderinf if y'all could give me any ideas on where to mount my cb. I have a dual antenna cable and a Cobra model 29 laying about. Thanks in advance. :)

I may be mistaken, but you SHOULD be able to cap them off and just run a vented filler cap.

Keeping the 2.8? You're brave., brother. ;) http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/60degreeV6/ Check that site out. Basic tricks, but cool nonetheless. For the 2.8, I'd go with a 700R4, a manual valve body (my personal preference) and, just to weird y'all out, a Toyota T-case. Why the toyota box? Well, there are a lot of cheap ultra low gearing options for toyota cases, adapting them to GM tranny's is easy now, and they're pretty tough. Also, having an ultra low low range may be a benefit with the 2.8. Even though it had more HP, it was basically on par with the 2.5 4 banger when it came to torque.

Fuel pressure checks out ok. Ran through a coupke tanks, used berryman in the system. Nothing going.

Be careful with brake cleaner... it can eat into some plastics and rubber compositions.

I buy purple power in the gallon jugs. I spray it on, scrape/brush the junk off, rinse, and repeat. I DO pressure wash my bay, but I tend to keep the spray around sensitive areas to a minimum.

Went down to my local parts store yesterday and, while shopping for some odds and ends for my other vehicles, I decided to look at perhaps getting either a new injector or an injector rebuild kit; just to freshen up the system a bit. While searching, I came upon Borg Warner part # 10822. Being that they had one in the back room, and it cost about the same as a rebuild kit for a Q Jet carby, I brought it home. What the hell, right? :) Looking inside the box, it appears to have pretty much all the gaskets and the diaphragm for the FPR. Anybody use this kit to freshen up their TBI? Is it worth the hassle of tearing into it just to replace some gaskets and springs? It doesnt look luke my TBI has any gaskets that have failed, but the OCD side of me keeps telling me that I need to replace the gaskets on this little mill. ALL the gaskets. NOW. Lol

My buddy also picked up a complete wiring harness from the local U Pull it. Not a bad deal at 10 bucks.. and it seems like a good idea to have a spare.

Got a new dizzy in; no joy. At least we got rid of an oil leak, though. :). We're waiting on the CPS. Just our luck that nobody in the area has one in stock!

yup. We checked, and at first it checked out fine, but, if you hold the multimeter to it, the signal fluctuates. I thought it might be something physically wrong with the connector or harness, but there are no obvious signs of damage. I went so far as to tap into the wire carrying the reference voltage near the ECM and the same thing happens there, which lead to us swapping the ECM. I have NOT checked the voltage since the ECM swap. I'm feeling that maybe I should...

Holy smokes! That's some strict laws you guys have. I can run doorless, topless, hell even fenderless and the DPS doesnt really care one way or another.

I keep hearing that the CPS can give weird conditions when it's failing. I'll have to pull it and check it out.

He's filled up once more since it started happening. We also changd out the fuel filter and threw in a can of Seafoam into the tank this weekend. Issue persists. What is phase seperation?

I didnt think to check, but I've never heard of an O2 sensor trigger such a violent, hard fuel cut off before, especially when thr rngine is still well within the safe RPM range. I'll check it out tonight and report back with what I find.

I'm pretty sure the Canyons on my ZJ are 15x8's. I'll measure my spare tomorrow.

This is going to seem like a cop out.....but, it depends. On what, you ask: How flat/peaky is the torque curve of the mill you're throwing under the hood? Peaky? You're going to need 5 or more very tightly spaced gears to keep in the power band. Is the torque curve relatively flat? You can get by with a standard 3 or 4 speed auto in most conditions with an engine like that.

That looks/looked SICK!!!

Dude, I am ALL for more power, but lately, I think that gettinjg that power without completely killing the vehicle's original feel and, for lack of a better word, "personality" is a better way to go than the mega-builds i used to pull off. A fresh 2.5 rebuild with some head work, a slightly more aggressive cam, and s bump in piston diameter and comp ratioi would be pretty cool, if you ask me.

There. Fixed it for ya! . :MJ 1: . Seriously, though, I do love having tube doors on my K5, but have never felt/seen the need for them on my ZJ or XJ's. The tube door/no door set up does let me see better out of the full size K5 in a tight trail, but I have great visibility out of the smaller Jeeps. I don't foresee needing them on the MJ either, to be honest.

Ok everyone. I ran into something this week that has me scratching my head. A buddy of mine recently purchased a 1994 Jeep ZJ with the 42RE, 4.0HO, Dana 35, and is 2WD. This vehicle is a Laredo, if it makes a difference. The vehicle has 250,000 miles on (what I presume to be) the original engine. It had plenty of power, and made all the right noises. Over the last couple of weeks, he's installed a cold air intake, a new set of wires and plugs, cap and rotor, freshened the CCV system, installed a new high flow cat and muffler, threw in a MSD coil I had, and installed my old ported and polished throttle body as well as a '99 WJ intake manifold. It ran very well after these mods and he was averaging about 16mpg in mixed driving. I then didnt see him or the Zed for a few weeks. This weekend, he came back with the CEL on, a weird, misfire at low RPM, a VERY low idle speed, and severe missing and what seemed almost like the fuel cut off on a very aggressive RPM limiter hitting right around 4000 rpm. His average MPG has also dropped to 15.2MPG and the truck feels noticeably more sluggish. We did the CEL sequence with the key and came back with a fault at the MAP sensor. I have a few new spares laying about, so we decided to throw them in. The issue persisted. Checked the vacuum line, all was in order. There appeared to be some fraying of the wires in the connector, so we checked them, made sure everything was plugged in and it all checked out. We checked plugs, wires, the coil, changed the fuel filter, tps, iac, cap and rotor, took down the exhaust before and after the cat.... issue is still present. I even have a spare ECM of the proper serial # ( I have a LOT of ZJ parts lol) that we threw in there and it's still displaying the same symptoms. The only thing that I can think of is that my buddy may have knocked a wire loose somewhere or perhaps accidentally created a short somewhere while installing a set of Hella fog lamps on his bumper. He ran the wires through the firewall grommet near the steering column into the passenger compartment, All vacuum lines and fittings seem to be in proper order, btw. Only other thing that I can think of is that maybe the CPS is failing, or we just need to swap out the whole ECM harness (I swear I have one somewhere in my closet). Any suggestions? I am honestly stumped. :dunno:

35's in aggressive, rush hour city driving can be very different from a relaxed, 55mph highway cruise on 35's. Where do you spend most of your time?

One of my buddies has had one for years on his 5.2 Grand in the 44A. No welding or trussing and it's held up well to a lead foot and 33's.

Yeah, the lack of a harness isn't enough of a reason to drop in a 2.8. I know it's not terribly popular in the Jeep world, but I've seen people get good results using a megasquirt system as a stand alone ECM for their Mazda Miatas and Toyota 4 bangers. I kind of want to use one on my L6 stroker, to be honest.