jpnjim

Sucks. :( I didn't click the link (I rather not read the details :fs1: ) Destroying a life like this, and the lives of an entire family is the ultimate selfish act. These kind of predators need to be removed from the planet though any means necessary.

That makes sence, especially with the low count for 1992, but what about the numbers for model year 85's produced before 1/1/'85 (= 1984 numbers)? Unless MJ's had a mid-85 introduction, and production didn't start till after 1/1/'85 :dunno: The MJ was "rolled out" on July 1, 1985 as an '86 model. :wall: Thanks, guess I didn't think that one through. :ack: :smart: :ack: :cheers:

The factory never sold the AMC 20 (or any other axle) with a locker. They did sell a lot of limited slips, and there's a good chance that's what is in your AMC 20. Eagle, I thought I had you on a technicality, but I was wrong. :doh: AMX/SS's M20's came with 4.44 gears, and aftermarket 1 piece shafts, I had thought they also were delivered with Detroit's (No-Spin), but it looks like they just got Power-Lok's (Twin Grip). Your statement remains intact :cheers: It was available in the 70's as a dealer option tho. ;)

That makes sence, especially with the low count for 1992, but what about the numbers for model year 85's produced before 1/1/'85 (= 1984 numbers)? Unless MJ's had a mid-85 introduction, and production didn't start till after 1/1/'85 :dunno:

I think this is where the spacer comes in. I'm actually looking for some enlightenment on this too. :smart: I bolted up a 2001 XJ MC & booster, and have the high pedal. It modified the old pedal arm to fit, and to activate a Ford truck style brake light switch (I had one, and was able to force the electrical connection in there :yes: ). I still have the 2001 brake arm, and took measurements off it, I just haven't gotten around to figuring out how my 88's is different, and where things went wrong. I'm guessing I may have to move the attachment hole on the pedal arm, or find a 1/4" spacer from a 91-96 (guessing :dunno: ) XJ.

The MJ M20's either came 'open', or with a Trac-lock LSD. (all with 4.10's) Trac-lock's are clutch type LSD's, with a belleville spring, a one piece carrier, and 2 pinion gears (+ the two spiders on the axle shafts). Early M20's (pre 1971) had used stronger 'powerlocks' (2 piece carrier, 4 pinion gears). AMC 20's have a bigger ring gear than a D44 (8.875" vs 8.5"), but with less ring gear bolts (8 vs 10), and slightly smaller axle shafts 29sp vs 30 sp (FWIW 29sp AMC 20 shafts are bigger than Mopar 8.25's 29sp shafts). mvusse is right on about it's strength, and undeserved bad rep (AMC 'cars' also got 2 piece shafts, MJ's & FSJ's got flanged 1 piece), but there are lots of lockers available. Even though they look totally different (& are IFS/IRS), H1 Hummers still use an AMC-20 center housing, maybe that's one reason locker companies keep making AMC-20 versions of their new stuff: https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/produc ... ric-Locker http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/VehicleApplica ... fault.aspx http://store.arbusa.com/ARB-Air-Locker- ... P3543.aspx https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/produc ... oit-Locker

The link to the image was in the middle of what you posted: Put IMG in brackets infront of the image link:

I'd like to know more about the numbers too, AMC/Jeep released all sorts of different numbers, for different reasons (stockholders meetings, press releases, internal documents, dealership documents, tax purposes, etc). For different AMC & Jeep model's I've seen numbers that show: vehicles built during a model year, vehicles built during a physical year, vehicles sold during model, or physical year, US market vehicles only, US + export vehicles (production, or sales, physical, or model year), including, or not including partial built knock down units, including, or not including preproduction & test vehicles to be destroyed, etc etc. :???: Either way, it doesn't look like many were made (I'd REALLY like to see the longbed vs shortbed breakdowns too. :D )

87-95 (HO & Renix) = same cam 96+ (OBDII) = smaller cam (moved RPM of peak torque lower) HO vs Renix: HO has a better head, higher, more free flowing intake ports, bigger throttle body, better flowing exhaust manifold (header), bigger fuel injectors, higher fuel pressure. Renix's EGR & knock sensor was deleted. Rev limiter added. Electronic speedo used. Electronic controls completely revised , CEL now used (renix didn't have one), voltage regulator now part of ECU (also got rid of the Renix's GM alternator).

fixxored :cheers:

There were a few guys on the XJ-list building their own strokers in 1998-9. The 'poor mans' 4.0L pistons, 258 rods & crank + a balancer spacer (or a late YJ 258 crank) combo was figured out by then, it just took a few people assembling their own before it was considered 'verified'. I left the list shortly after that, couldn't handle reading 50+ e-mails a day :nuts:

I've had heard some say the Dodge 'Lil Red Express Truck' was faster than a Vette in 1978: but not the Comanche. Would be very cool if it was tho. :cheers:

VAM in Mexico was the grandfather then. :D They were building 4.6L AMC 'strokers' in the 1970's. 4.0L's weren't even a glimmer in their daddy's eye yet, so VAM had to cast their own 258 blocks to the bigger 4.0L bore size to get to 4.6L. It just took us silly Americans a couple of decades to catch on ;) I don't know if the part about these 'strokers' directly leading to the 4.0L's development is correct (VAM actually became defunct in 1982), but the first part is dead on: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Veh%C3%ADc ... _Mexicanos VAM ad's: http://www.arcticboy.com/Pages/arcticboysvam.html http://www.arcticboy.com/Pages/arcticboysvam2.html

LOL :chillin: Random silly site I wandered onto: http://monster.namedecoder.com/ :rotf:

Meh, he just wanted a free ride home for the winter (summer in S. America). He'll be right back here next year,with a new 'borrowed' social security number working 2 jobs & sending 1/2 his money 'home' like he's been doing for the last 15 years.

Our 96 ZJ on 30's stops ALOT better than the 98' XJ on 31's. Ft brakes are identical, rears are ZJ discs vs 9"x2.5" drums for the XJ. I'd give a braking advantage to the ZJ rear disc setup, but the ZJ's emergency brake setup is junk (IMHO). (little tiny brake shoes inside the rotor hat). Just had to crank the adjusters down (= dragging), just to get it to pass inspection.

Good call Eagle, http://autoparts.thecarconnection.com/a ... tep-bumper might even find it on clearance if you look hard enough.

If you can spread out the welds over a long enough distance of the sheetmetal 'frame', you'd be OK, but at that point why not just bolt it on? Bumpers should also be built to act as sacrificial parts in an accident. I overbuilt an MJ ft bumper at one point (3/8" plates connecting the 'wings' of the bumper to the mounting brackets). When I crashed, the 'wing' still folded in, but it crushed the sheetmetal frame rail in the process. (3/8" plate forced framerail over & knocked the alternator right off the engine)

Agreed. FWIW, I run factory TJ 15x8's (canyons) on 'her' ZJ, and they have 5.5" bs, so the centerline is 1/4" closer to that of the XJ 15x7's. Both wheels do stuff inside the fenders with 31x10.5's, but I still get your point.

OT, but ifg anyone is looking to keep the factory BS, these aftermarket 15x8's have 5.25" BS (same as XJ 15x7's): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARE-1 ... mage=large I run a set with TrXus 31x10.5's on the DD XJ (& ~4.25" lift). FWIW, they don't rub my RE LCA's.

Based on looks/style alone, what's your favorite factory graphics package? Comanche Chief? Eliminator (which year/colors)? Etc

The RK bracket appears to drop the pivot point much farther than stock. (unless they've redesigned it). It looks like you'd need that 'cows tongue' pitman arm with it to keep the angles the same. (or is the pic deceiving?) FWIW, the RE & T&T brackets both slightly drop the pivot. I've used them with, and without a ZJ pitman, as the bracket drop seems to split the difference in the ZJ pitman drop (maybe 3/8" vs ~3/4" for the ZJ pitman).

:thumbsup: Nice MJ. :cheers: don't think I'd change a thing.

I switched from the RE bracket to a T&T/Trek one. Almost identical, except: Trek uses a bigger bolt Trek bracket sits ~3" more forward on the 'frame', for more dif room (my dif was contactacting the RE bracket at full stuff). I re-used the RE trac-bar, but had to drill out the joint, and take some of the bend out of bar.

If you really cared, you'd take the bus down, with some hand tools, a sleeping bag, and a temporary plate. Put the puzzle pieces back together, and drive it home. :smart: All kidding aside, This MJ should not be parted. Sure anyone could take a clapped out rusted base MJ, fix the rust, add all those options, etc, but you'll never turn it into an original max option MJ like this one is already.