jpnjim

I posted some of these pics in my build thread. My cab corner was junk, so that came off first: Then starting cutting off the junk rocker, to the inner rocker seam: Once I got it all off, I test fit the new one: Then cleaned it up underneath, before burning it in:

Anyone trying to drive their car near one should watch that video. :smart:

:brows: (Now with a nice steel mount, instead of the wood blocks.)

I figured someone on here could be the high bidder (sorry if I 'helped' you lose it), though the price was low enough to look like it had slipped under the everyone's radar.

Sold for under $20 each.

Switch panel: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1988-jee ... ccessories Light: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1988-jee ... ccessories I know some of you guys are :drool: over these. Sorry if the high bidder's already here. :dunno:

The bypass shouldn't bypass the sending unit (but to be honest, I really don't know either way), but the instance I posted about the perfect/clean filter & no oil pressure, something similar happened. (SIL's Dodge Omni) The clogged, brand new filter (defective) forced the bypass to open, owner left 'Jiffy Lube' thinking everything was OK. After driving around for a day, or so, the bypass must've failed, because the pressure went to zero, and that's when my SIL asked me to look at it ("um, there's a big bright red light on the dash"). I swapped the filter, and everything went back to normal (normal for a POS Omni anyway).

It varies with whatever your transmission is, the bracket & pivot usually bolts to 2 of the tranny to t-case studs, one link goes between the shifter & the pivot, the other goes between the pivot, and the T-case. Post up what engine/tranny/year, and hopefully someone can post up a pic.

Something to think about next time you end up with zero oil pressure, engines get very noisy without oil pressure, clanging, knocking, rattling, they also start to run like crap, sluggish, nonreponsive, and usually overheat shortly after (since all that moving oil removes heat from the bearings, and no oil = lots of extra friction heat). If none of these things are happening when your gauge reads zero (not so much as a new lifter tap), I usually lean towards a gauge malfunction, than anything else. FWIW, when someone does have zero oil pressure, the first thing I check is the filter. I've seen engines lose oil pressure after a 'Quicky Lube' visit, only to find a brand new, perfectly clean (no oil) plugged up filter on the engine. Second thing I would check is whatever drives the oil pump (shaft, or tab from the distributor usually).

2.5L may be different from the 4.0L, but the 4.0L doesn't actually have a PCV valve. 4.0L's use an orifice sized accordingly to allow a specific amount of air to pass. (CCV orifice IIRC). IIRC, the CCV orifice is at the rear of the valve cover, and connected directly to a vacuum port, and the front of the valve cover is a simple hose connection, that goes to the airfilter, to allow filtered air to enter the crankcase. Not sure if that is helpful for a 2.5L tho.

You can see the aluminum clamp in this pic: V The holes were there in the correct spot when I bought this bedliner, previous owner was already using it with a tonneau cover. (you can see the old cover in this pic, rolled up next to the can)

Another good read: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... index.html oil pump shootout from this month's Car Craft.

I'm guessing he has low oil pressure, and is trying to 'fix' it. I don't want to say you 'have' to rebuild this engine, but I'd want to check out the crank before deciding to swap new bearings in it. It's more work (might as well pull the engine at that point), but if the crank is starting to get scored, new bearings aren't gonna stay new for long.

Thanks! Tires are 255/85-16's They are a little under-width (should be 33 x 10, these are closer to 33x9's). If I knew they were this skinny I would've atleast thought about getting the 285/75-16's instead (285's 'should' be 32.8 x 11.2). So far they haven't gone past the end of my driveway yet, so I can't say how good/bad they are. (I'm liking the way they look on the Silverstars tho ;) )

I am definitely feeling this build :banana: :cheers: Image Not Found I'm loving every part of it, except the height. Wouldn't mind having a pop out rear window like this on my MJ either. Image Not Found

Almost forgot, I got a couple of these 20mm ammo cans, they're a 'perfect' fit behind the wheelwells (even with a bedlner): They are a pop-top style (top unlatches ft & back, then completely comes off), but if you cut a sort of 'alignment lip' off one side, and weld the latch down, it'll function as a hinge, instead of a latch. I also welded a link from a chain inside the functioning latch, so I can put a padlock on it. The solenoid pack & winch control will go in one of these (along with the rest of the recovery gear, they're friggen huge inside), I'll mount another on the other side for tools. They're even with the inner wheelwells, so you don't really even lose any floor space.

I'd rather just see some flat plate armor bent to fit the upper bed corners, and maybe the rails. Kinda like those goofy diamond plate aluminum 'rail' protectors, but out of something that would actually protect the bed (and isn't shiny :D ). If you look at these old pics, I used something similar to support the tire/gas can/cooler rack on the old MJ: (first pic they run the full length of the rails, second pic I had cut them) It was too late for bed protection for that MJ, so I didn't build the ft/rear corners (I eventually cut it down to make the rack easier to remove & store), but it could easily have been done. The ends themselves would probably take a few pieces welded together to get the angles right, but I think it could be done nicely. I used diamond plate for these rails, but would probably use flat plate if I did it again. If you made top rails like this (also maybe wrap them around a little further down the side), flat plate corner guards & rock rails, and your bed would be pretty well protected. Personally I'm more concerned about the A pillars on the cab. I'd like to wrap them with plate, or tubing running from the roof to the fender. I'd also like it clean, so would probably want to cut a hole in the fender, and have them go through it @ the A-pillar, instead of continuing to the front bumper, or rock rail. On the roof side, I'm like 50/50 on building a short/clean looking rack, and tying them into that, or just cap them off at the roof line somehow.

I am gonna run synthetic rope, so that should drop a few lbs off of it. Here it is slathered in POR-15, then Rustoleum Satin Black & mounted, License plate will go to left of hitch, 2 holes there are for some of those 'bolt light' license plate lights (they're not gonna be bright enough tho :ack: ): Painting the aluminum fairlead came out better than I thought (it's also POR + Rustoleum don't know how it'll hold up to the rope). If it looks bad after a few pulls I just get an anodized black fairlead instead. Side view: You can see where the bumper ends will go, I'm still trying to figure out how I want to cut the bed corners (I don't want too much of the chopped off look).

Thanks! I've been slacking a little (as usual), but I cleaned up the winch, reclocked the lever, and reinforced the attachments from the bumper mounts to the winch plate. Still have to cut the bed corners, and burn the bumper ends on. It came out a little heavier than I thought it would tho :ack: here it is on the scale with the (unmounted/unfinished) ends & winch cable sitting on top: 140 lbs, without the solenoid box. :doh:

I bought a $500 MJ in '03 to 'rebody' the old abused MJ I had had been wheeling since 97'. Parked it full time in 2004, to start some of the bigger jobs (engine/tranny). & it's been off the road since. :wall: The 'frame', about 80% of the cab, the dash and the wiring harness are about all that's left from the MJ I bought in 03'. :doh:

I've done it, I also replaced it as soon as I could (= as soon as I got home). My understanding has always been, the pump is designed to run at 12-13v. When you're starting off battery power, you're in the right range, once the engine fires, and the alternator starts producing, you need the ballast resistor to bring the voltage back into range.

Interesting idea, I wouldn't mind seeing a couple more pics of the bed/cab, maybe from the back if you could. :D

Great story, thanks for posting it! I wonder who ended up with his FSJ/MJ, Looks like he put so much of himself into it that they should've kept it. Either way :cheers: :bowdown: and :thumbsup: to a AMC/Jeep nut with more patience & talent than I. :yes:

Wow, I've seen pics of this one before, but never even though it was more than (very nicely done) cosmetic. :doh: Huge :cheers: to the builder. Some parts of it are not my style, but other parts of it (and the fab work that was obviously done) are incredible. Your pic shows the for sale sign, how much was he looking for it (just curious)?