jpnjim

A quart should do it. Find out what primer works best with the bedliner, when the 2nd coat of POR-15 is tacky to the touch, spray a dusting of the primer over the POR-15. Let that completely dry, then follow the instructions on the can of primer. (might say: "2nd coat before 4 hours, or after 48 hrs", or something like that) POR-15 also makes a tie-cote to use over POR-15, but I've had good luck doing the above.

That's around what I paid ($40-something a quart), Getting a gallon's a bad idea, unless you're going to burn through the whole thing in a short time. It doesn't last long after you open it (best to seal with plastic wrap under the cover & refrigerate the unused portion), and is easily contaminated (I always scoop the paint out into another container to brush from, then seal original container). I only opened one of the 4 qts I bought so far, but the lid was friggen 'paint-welded' to the can. I never had this happen before (esp with a new can), but I had to destroy the container to open it. :fs1: As far as prices, I did find one place selling it online for ~$37 a quart, but figured they'd probably hit you on shipping (since every other place I found was $41-45 a quart). :dunno: edit: I actually got the 4-qt deal this time, and they knock like $20 off the total.

OEM parts interchanges on the (88') MJ: 01' XJ hood/fenders/header 01' doors 01' seats (required floor braces from 01'), rug 01' windshield & rubber gasket (instead of chrome trim) 01' radiator & puke bottle 01' MC/booster/prop valve 01' NV3550 & clutch mc/ 01' NP 231 (w/87' slipyoke) 01' 60th anniversary wheels (9er 16x7's) 92' YJ 4.0L (w/ renix sensors/flywheel/XJ motor mount brackets) 87' XJ ft axle(91-99 style rotors/unit bearings/calipers & knuckles) 87' XJ ft driveshaft 72' AMC Javelin rear driveshaft (shortened) 69' Dodge Charger rear axle (D60) w/11x2.5" drums, 67' OEM Dodge 4.56 gear set in above Also has an 87' MJ cab corner & 87' (I think) Eliminator bed Once you figure in the aftermarket stuff, and the metal that rotted out, and had to be replaced, I'm thinking I'm down to about 25% original parts. :ack: :rotfl2:

Figures I just ordered 4 quarts & some other stuff from them a couple weeks ago. :doh:

When I had my longbed 4.0L 5spd 2wd, on 33's (w/3.07's) & a cap, my neighbor's tranny sh!! the bed in his minivan, while he was at work, about 25 miles from here. I thought my neighbor was going to ride in the van, and work the brakes, but for some reason he was scared to ride back there :dunno: @ almost 300lbs, he sat in the back, under the cap of my MJ :doh: (gf was with me in the MJ's cab) Flat towed the 3500+ minivan (guess), through tons of side streets, clutch abusing the poor 33's & 3.07's equipt MJ. Didn't tow as bad as I thought, but I'd get something with better brakes & a V8 if I was going to do it regularly.

Dimensions: Looks like they make the same box in (white painted) steel (cheaper than the Alum DP). #655 Both these boxes have zero clearance lids (so you don't have to space them away from the back of the cab to open the lid), and Weatherguard boxes aren't cheap ($$$), but (IMHO) they're worth it. They honor their warranty's, and you almost never see one with a hasp & padlock screwed on the lid because the lock failed. I would've gotten the black one but they were just releasing those when I bought mine. :(

If you want a chest, this is the biggest one that I 'know' fits a shortbed MJ: Weatherguard 654: # Height: 19-1/4" # Width: 20" # Length: 55" # Cubic feet: 12 http://www.toolup.com/weatherguard/654-5-01.html Originally for a Flareside Full size Ford, & pretty much fills the entire section in front of the SB MJ's wheelwells: There is a slight mod required to fit it tho: you have to hammer down some of the bend in the left hand bottom corner of the bed, that allows for gas filler tube clearance (or box will sit high on the left hand corner), and I seriously doubt you could use one with a bedliner. I ran my old MJ with the 'gas filler tube clearance bubble' hammered down for 6, or 7 years, and never had a problem with it.

The guy I know that heard it from someone who read it on the gas station sh!!house wall said they just popped the rivets out of the plastic dash, like a really stiff snap on a jacket, and popped the new one in it's place. It may have been summer time (plastic more pliable when warm), but both sets came out, and went back in without any drilling, or damage to the plastic. Same guy tried the same thing a few years later, and ended up cracking the dash, so YMMV.

I bought an old crappy tire machine from a shop that was relocating. $100, and compared to how I was doing it without the machine (hydrolic jack & a 6 foot wooden 4x4 under a beam in the basement to pop beads :nuts: ), it's probably already saved my life a few times. :smart:

Sorry Darren, not looking to sell it. I got it 15+ yrs ago at the junkyard ($20 'grabathon', whatever you could carry, and I can carry a lot :D ). If I thought everyone would be looking for them now, I would've grabbed the other 3 (atleast) that were there. :ack:

Figure out what equipment you will be using (with the engine off), and add up the total load. Convert that to amps. Figure out the max number of hours you think you will using those items (with the engine off), and that will give you Amp hours. Example: You need 80 amp hours to run your heater on low & a light for x hours. The deep cycle battery you choose = 55 ah each. You'd need two batteries to satisfy that requirement. If your planning to use the batteries on back to back nights you'll also have to figure out how quickly you can recharge them, (say you can only put 80% of the charge back in during the engine run time, eventually in back to back uses, they will run out). A solar panel could also help recharge the batteries, and maybe even reduce the engine run time. As far as batteries I've heard alot of questionable stuff about Optima's in the last few years, but for something like this, I think I'd still lean in that direction. Especially since you can mount them in any position, and there are some nice double mount bracket options for them: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=743505 Lengthwise, or widthwise, @ $78ea. I bet if you were creative enough with your exhaust routing, you could even fit one of these under the floor of the bed.

Ah, it sounds like you are in Canada, or BC (Ministry of Transportation). They seem to be a little more lenient when it comes to the transfer of VIN's. If/when they do certify the XJ VIN for an MJ, I'd be sure to make lots of copies of the certification paper, and keep one with the truck. :yes: Good luck :cheers:

:thumbsup: So will it get a 'Jeep' type VIN then, or a state issued one? I had a Motorcycle with a state (of Mass) issued VIN, I got the bike dirt cheap ($900 for an 88 CBR600 in 1992), but always wondered WTF was the history on the thing. (I guessed totaled/recovered stolen/rebuilt, or something else big enough for the state to void the original VIN :dunno: ). Shouldn't matter much either way, especially if it's a trail Jeep you don't plan on selling later, just wondering what the process is (I never really researched anything after buying that bike).

Not sure if this is the thread I was thinking about, but it might be: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174770 I'll agree with you on that one, that's like saying at some point ( I'm thinking after November of '88) all 5 speed manuals were AX5's in the '89 model year. I also left out the '96 model year, cause I couldn't remember off hand if they changed in the '96 or '97 model year to the newer ECU controlled trannys. So I played that one safe, knowing that the '96 model year went to the OBD II system. I was just adding info I know to you original post, on what years could be donors to our Renix era units :D :cheers: & I almost always leave 1996's out of things too. :yes: (someday I'll end up buying one just to rip it apart and answer all the questions I have. :nuts: )

Not sure if this is the thread I was thinking about, but it might be: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174770

I posted the change from 21 to 23sp as being 1991ish for 21 spline, and 1992 for 23spline since there seemed to have been some lag between when they tried to make the upgrade, and when they were actually were able to put the upgrade in place. A few years back I had found the upgrade listed in the 1991 Factory Data book (along with a change in the O/D ratio), and posted it in a thread somewhere (maybe JU). Feedback & experience from other posters in that thread suggested the upgrade didn't happen exactly as the 1991 model year was rolling out. I've never pulled the T-case off of a 91' AW4 to check, but giving the benefit of the doubt to the guys who posted in that thread, I always figured 1992 was a safer bet to get the upgraded output shaft. YMMV, and since the literature does say 1991 for the upgrade, I'm not disputing your info, just explaining why I posted 1992. :D

Roset rivets show up on Ebay, but a guy I know saw it on TV once that MJ/XJ VIN tags are just riveted into the plastic dash. :D If you do it just right, they can pop out, and back in again without destroying the rivets, or the plastic dash. (atleast that's what another guy I know told me he read on a bathroom wall once ;) ) Honestly tho, be careful messing with this stuff, and even more careful discussing it on the interwebz. :yes: Best bet would be to find the VIN 'somewhere' on the MJ, and run it/try to get a title with the right number. If the firewall tag is also gone, there are hidden VIN's in other locations on the Jeep (tho I honestly don't know where they are :dunno: ). Old AMC's used to have a partial VIN stamped under the steering box.

Yes, and yes. Nothing really wrong with the earlier ones, but if you're gonna swap anyway, might as well go for the beefier one. Truthfully, an even better reason is newer = (hopefully) better condition. The newest 21 spline AW4 is 18 years old now. The only thing I'm not too sure about is the electrical connections, and if they changed over the years (I'm thinking they did). So you'll want research that part a little more, before you throw in the absolutely newest AW4 you can get your hands on.

Best bet is the 1992+ AW4, they have stronger 23spline outputs. If you do get an '87-91(ish) AW4, it will have a 21spline output. The T-case you have now (NP231, from the Peugeot) is 21spline, and may work with the earlier 21sp AW4, but there were long & short input versions of the T-case, and I always forget what got which one. :dunno: Best bet of you want a 4x4 auto tranny is to get the later 23sp tranny & t-case combo, may even be able to trade the junky guy what you already have for a break on the pair.

Why stop at 4 doors? Image Not Found original: or is it? ;)

There might be enough room for that in what's left of the top channel, but I'd have to modify the bed to accept the raised latchpins. I want to keep the option of using a stock tailgate too, so keeping the latchpin receivers in their stock locations & using some kind of external latch for this tailgate seems like the only way to get away with that. :dunno:

I'll bring the sawzal, and video camera. :cheers:

OK, after 32 posts, this thread is still missing something....... hmm... looks pretty close to fitting. (sorry about the lack of light, I think it gets dark at noon time now. :( ) In place: Newp. Oh, I also tried out this one ;) Would look good if cut down in height (looks taller than it is, because of the angle of the pic), but no way would I want to chop up one of these grilles. :bowdown:

1968-1969 2 seat AMX: 290 4bbl, 343 4bbl, or 390 4bbl 1970 2 seat AMX: revised ft suspension, 360 4bbl or 390 4bbl 1971 AMX became an option package on the Javelin: (4 seat) 360 2bbl, 360 4bbl, or 401 4bbl 1972-1974 Still Javelin/AMX's: 304 2bbl became std equipment on AMX (360 2bbl/4bbl & 401 4bbl optional). 1977 AMX package added to the Hornet: 258, and 304 2bbl available. 1978 The Hornet name was dropped for the Concord, so the Hornet AMX becomes the Concord AMX. 1979 AMX name moved over to the Spirit line, last year of the V8 in AMC cars. 1980 Last year of the Spirit/AMX: 258 engine only. My first AMC was a ($100) '74 Javelin/AMX (304/auto), then a '72 Javelin/AMX (401/4spd), a '74 Javelin (258/auto), a 72 Javelin/SST (360/auto, 304/3spd when I got it), and this current one ('71 Javelin/AMX 360/4spd, 401 badges are on it, but the 401 is still in the basement :ack: ). Also had a few parts cars (including a '73 401/4spd Javelin/AMX, and a 360/4spd Gremlin :D ), and tried to daily drive a 4cyl Spirit, but blew up the Chevy iron duke 4 the first day I registered it :wall: . I moved on to Jeeps after that.

I was trying something different. I also ditched some of the linkage (now the shifter works in reverse).