jpnjim

Image Not Found :rotf: Hows that for a picture request, same color MJ, same wheels, with the size tires you wanted. Even the position of the MJ was almost the same. :clapping: Nice job LNF :yes:

http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/pts/1570382765.html Am I out of touch with the price of these old 10 slot grille's?

If they're 15's, yes. The're a good fit on any of the 15x7" Jeep wheels (or 8's for that matter). They're not a great fit on the 15x6" 9 slot wheels (like the ones on the Grandpa Jeep in my sig). Some might try them on the 6's, but I wouldn't. The other issue is sometimes tires don't 'like' to be swapped from wider wheels to narrower ones (assuming the 31's are on 8" wide wheels now). I've done it in the past, and had zero issues with some tires, but on one set, I've had them scallop badly after a few thousand miles. Maybe it wasn't the rim swap that lead to this, but it's the only reason I could see for all 4 to scallop so quickly, after the wheel change (had no issues with the same tires on the same truck before the wheel width swap :dunno: ). FWIW, 31x10.5's on stock Jeep wheels usually means the sidewall will rub the control arms some up front at full lock (wheel turned all the way). Live with it, stop turning the wheel all the way, adjust your stops, or find another solution that works for you (spacers?), but it will probably happen. Check the rear clearance at the leafs too, but I've been OK with this combo in the past.

Don't forget the 3rd MJ rear axle (before they started spec'ing D44's). :yes: '86 4.10 geared 1 piece axleshaft AMC Model 20's. :smart:

[off topic] surprised at the dislike for Fox Mustangs here. I never owned one, but always liked their compact size/style, power & parts availability. Plus, pretty much every power combo you could think about running has already been done 1000x's over, pick a recipe, put the parts on, and the drivetrain is done without sweating the details, or doing much research. Easy & lazy I know, but after a few decades of owning AMC's, I'd like to see how the 'off the shelf' crowd does it once in a while :yes: :yes: [/off topic] Back on topic, I like these little Ford/Mazda pick-me-ups. :yes: The lines on the regular cabs are very nice (especially the flare side bed type), they're easy to find & buy, parts are everywhere, and they're decent daily drivers. Good luck with it. :cheers:

Ditto on the last two posts (above yours). I used 1/4-20 hardware, through the stock flare holes, and tossed out everything else. Stainless 1/4-20 hardware is pretty cheap, but I still used plain old zinc plated stuff. The beauty of the plain jane 1/4-20 hardware is that it's dirt cheap, and when it's time to remove (assuming it's mounted out in the elements like this), put a wrench on it, and SNAP!, they break with a 1/2 turn of the wrench. :yes: Grab a handful of new hardware for next to nothing, and put the flares back on. It may sound counter productive & :nuts: but it worked for me when I was moving the flares around alot on the old trail Jeep. :D If you're only planning to do it once, go stainless, or try the nylons like Carl posted. (I've only used nylon nuts & bolts for motorcycle applications, but they worked well in that application). Also, I'd get hex head 1/4-20's. They come in phillips head, flat head (screwdriver), or combo (both), but even in stainless, the screwdriver style are tough to get apart later.

Will put more pics on later - yes it has the turn signals above the fender flare, the tail lights have to be orange, not allowed red here - and right hand is the wrong side... I was definitelt born in the wrong country! - anyone got a job over there!! haha So it does have orange tail lights?! Wow, now I really want to see a pic of it. :yes: Off topic: As for job, they just reported on the news that the Recession is over in the UK (some amount of growth they look to as their indicator on this). I guess the guys that make these statements forgot to ask the people that live there first. ;)

I took mine off last night and I know which bolt you're talking about. I didn't come out in one piece; in fact it didn't all come out. I appreciate the effort and the offer, but I'll rather not drill two more holes in my door to accommodate the larger base. Thanks. You could probably get away with just drilling one new hole, and lining up the other with the existing hole. :D (I'm just saying ;) )

Welcome to the Board. :thumbsup: I'd like to see a pic of a UK MJ. :banana: Is it Right (wrong ;) ) had drive? Does it have those little turn signals above the fender flares? Are the taillights all red like ours? (almost every European vehicle I've seen has amber rear directionals).

When I converted the two I did (~1998), Peugots were selling for $1000 each at the junkyard, if you could find one. I bought a whole rolled YJ ~1997, just for the tranny. AX-15's weren't falling out of tree's like they are now, so the solution for a broken BA was another BA. :ack:

I hope you took a few pics for a write up. :D When I tell people that you can convert a 2wd Peugeot to 4wd by swapping the tail housing & cutting the shaft, I usually get that 'sure you can' look. :yes:

Sorry for the sidetrack, I thought you guys already saw this, guess I should've made a new thread. :dunno: http://www.autoweek.com/article/2010012 ... /100129966 News Video: http://www.azfamily.com/home/Tents-coll ... 20467.html

:D

Awesome job! .....but you need to do something with the roof. Don't Xterra's have a roof kickup something like that, maybe you could copy the way their roof rack ties into it (or modify a junkyard rack from one). Best way would be to graft the raised MJ roof section, but I wouldn't want to see another MJ die for the project. Keep the pics coming. :yes: :cheers:

Storm. A really bad storm. :( Some of the cars look like they had car covers on, and the winds whipped the paint right off them. Others look like the fist of an angry god took vengeance on them. :eek:

:rotf: Having someone wrong (phone) number you is pretty bad, but I've never heard of people giving out fake VIN's :rotfl2:

I've had AMC's for ~20 years. Other than a poorly made patch panel, or two, they are not making any new sheetmetal for these cars. So, when you see something NOS, for a 40+ year old car, you hold it in pretty high regard. A buddy of mine has a set of NOS fenders for a Javelin (1971-74). The fenders on my 71 have seen better days, but, at best, my Javelin is a nice driver. (= not a showcar). Since there's probably only single digits of NOS fenders for this car in existence, even if he gave them to me, I would not put them on my car, so long as it was a driver. Mint perfect panels like this belong on mint perfect cars that aren't going to be sitting in traffic, and get wacked by an '84 Corolla at a red light. Maybe it's hard to explain, and even harder to put into the context of Comanche's (not too many show Comanche's out there), but what if one of the original, mint, perfect Archer Race Comanche's was damaged as it sat in the museum? (tree took out one bed side) Would you rather see it get a 20 year old beat up bed side that had to be worked back into decent shape, damage hidden with bondo, rot covered with patch panels, or would you rather see the ace body guy get his hands on a perfect NOS panel, and put the mint perfect MJ back to what it was before the tree ruined it? This is the Russo Steele auction that got hit by a storm last week: http://picasaweb.google.com/tjmyers769/ ... 10Damages# I'd hate to think the last NOS roof section that would fit this Superbird was just used as a patch panel on someone's grandmother's Slant Six daily driver, and the $100,000+ winged warrior is gonna have a junkyard Satellite roof snotted in place instead. I know this is a waaaaaaaaayyyyyyy over the top example when we're talking about Comanche's, and their NOS parts, but since they're never going to make another MJ bed side (ever), I still hold their NOS parts in pretty high regard. FWIW, other pics of the carnage:

Hope you're back on your feet soon. :cheers: Welcome to the 'Comanche Owners With Heart Issues' subgroup here. :wavey: I think we should have our own board. :ack: Atleast you can do some research with the computer, I think this type of arrhythmia = medication, + heart monitor (for a while atleast). Some get pacemakers, but I don't think that's the norm for A-fib patients. (I had a buddy that was A-fib, and refused the pacemaker because he thought he was 'too young' :shake: ) If they give you a Beta blocker, you're probably gonna be tired till you get used to it (I take mine before bed), and blood thinners, well make you bleed........ alot. Good luck man.

Fixxed: :yes:

Drive it, enjoy it, and start collecting parts as they turn up. Joining a local 4x4 club should make lots of the stuff available to you for cheap. (as other people upgrade to bigger & better stuff) Since it's your DD, plan on doing the swap a little at a time: swap the ft axle in, drive it, while looking for a tranny & t-case. If you're junkyard shopping you can sell the stuff you find cheap, and trade up to the stuff you need.

If I wasn't trying to keep the 'stock' vibe, I would've done something custom. Especially if I already had the factory receiver off something else (assuming one of them is stamped 500/5000, or greater: to keep prying eyes happy.) I had ~ $75 in my original receiver hitch bumper: 3+ times that in this one so far (not counting the winch):

I've chopped up so many of these poor things, it's kinda fun trying to 'build' one the normal way. :D I didn't want to go $200, but if these things just started falling off the face of the earth a few months ago, paying full price may be my only option. If I'm going to keep this one 'stock' I might as well be able to use it as a tug toy once in a while.

I just did the same, it lists as: 75021 Type: Square Tube 2 inch Rec. Class: 3 Finish: Black Max weight: 3500 Max distribution weight: 5000 and at the bottom: Limited supply of this product, offer based on availability. :ack:

That's EXACTLY what I was looking for. U-Haul, who would've thunk it. :D Like glundblad said above this post, I only wonder if it would work with an aftermarket bumper. Thanks for the leads! :cheers:

First thing I do with taillight issues is look for a hacked in trailer plug. There's an electrical connector on the left side, behind the bumper that feeds the taillights, you could check that too to see if it's corroded, or unplugged.