jpnjim

Aluminum. Here's the natural finish ones for the same price: http://www.buywheelstoday.com/products/ ... ted%29.bwt I bought some generic Outlaw II's 6, or 7 years ago for $62.50 each (15x7's, PBL brand). The clear coat didn't last long, but I bought them for off road, so it didn't really matter. :dunno:

There's more cheap options out there than there used to be, cheapest of the cheap: Black outlaw II's (15x7's) for $65 each: http://www.buywheelstoday.com/products/?id=6162 Black 8-holes (15x8's) for $74.95: http://www.buywheelstoday.com/products/ ... +Black.bwt Not as cheap, but I really like these :drool: Cragar Eliminator Wheels (the name alone makes them worth it ;) ) in Grey, 15x7's = $119.99 15x8's = $131.99 (@ Jegs) http://www.jegs.com/p/Cragar/Cragar-Eli ... 6/10002/-1 Black is slightly more for some sizes: ION's are pretty cheap at the 'buywheelstoday' site (anyone ever use these guys?): $79.99 for 15x8's http://www.buywheelstoday.com/products/ ... ack%29.bwt Fake beadlock ION's only $5 more: http://www.buywheelstoday.com/products/ ... ack%29.bwt These Incubus - 511's are a little over the top for me: but just $99 for 16x8's: http://www.buywheelstoday.com/products/ ... ack%29.bwt So, what do you like for the Grandpa Jeep? Picture it shinned up a bit, 1" higher up front, and the wheels wrapped around slightly wider tires (255/70R15's vs these 235/75R15's) I'm leaning towards the Cragars, or the Black Outlaws, because of the more MJ friendly back spacings, but I'm wondering what you guys think (remember, it's gonna stay 2wd :yes: )

(as most of the others), I'd say no way to 31x10.5's on 6" wheels. The width of the wheel is only half the problem, 6" wheels have the same 5.25" back spacing as 15x7's, so the center of the 10.5" wide tire would actually be shifted inward 1/2" further than it would on a 7" wheel with 5.25" bs. = tire would be even closer to the LCA's & rear leafs. (and 31x10.5's on factory 7's are already cutting it pretty close) Back to the width, I'm running 235/75-15's on those factory 15x6's now (pic in sig :D ) and the 9.25" wide tire bows out noticeably on the narrow rims, I wouldn't want to try to fit another 1.25" of tire width in there. If you get some 15x7's, lots of people here have run 31's on MJ's with zero lift. Personally, I'd want 1-2" over stock height, mostly just to keep from having that 'jammed in there' look to the tires. As far as cutting, whacking & chopping to fit 31's, with stock wheels, you should be able to do all the (street use) trimming needed with a pair of tin snips on the plastic of the flares. If the 8's the 31's are on now have shallow backspacing (like typical 3.75-4"), you'd have to do more trimming to fit, since they're trying to use the space occupied by the flares, instead of playing nice, and staying inside the wheelwells. Factory TJ 15x8's are also a good choice to run 31's without cutting much. They have slightly more backspacing than our 7's (5.5"), but since they're wider, the wheel centerline is actually 1/4" further out than the 7's. (for 1/2" wider track width total).

Was the buyer in the US? Someone had posted how $300 (us) for MJ taillights in the UK would be cheap, and they could probably be sold again for a profit.

Wow, you really should've quoted that for posterity :yes: THAT is one of the greatest Comanche misspellings of all time. :bowdown: :D

Did you try the D35 (86-89 non-c-clip style) backing plates? Non C-clip D35's had 10"x1.75" brakes, XJ & MJ D44's had 10"x2.5" brakes. It was a long time ago, on another board, but someone posted they were able to use the 10"x1.75" backing plates on a D44 with the rest of the 10"x2.5" brake parts & drums. I did not try it myself, or even see pics of it done, but it always stuck in my head that atleast one person said they did it. Try at you own risk, etc etc.

The square is a good way of making a connection that can be easily assembled, and disassembled. If the pipe near 'the square' is damaged, I'd replace the pipe, but keep the square (cut it off the old pipe, and weld it back on the new one). If the square is damaged, they're pretty easy to make, use the gasket as a template on a piece of steel plate, drill 4 little holes, and one big one, and you have a new 'square'.

jimoshel, you're off the hook, I got mine today. :chillin: It's like 10* outside tho, so I won't be putting mine on any time soon. :ack: edit, and though mine wasn't shiny like yours (shelf worn, missing sections of the stickers, and some scratches), it DID have the red "do not reorder" tag on it.

Uninspected IS a moving violation in Mass. The only time it's not a moving violation is when a meter maid writes the ticket (when you're parked). As far as unregistered, that gets you towed here, and uninsured (usually goes along with unregistered) carries a possible JAIL sentence in Mass.

:yes: Just be aware there was atleast one gear pitch change over the years (231 input/planetaries & sun gear) If you end up with a mismatch it will sound like your t-case is full of rocks. Ask me how I know. ;)

:cheers: deal. :D

I've been thinking about this for a while, I thought about putting these on a dummy plate/mount http://www.jcwhitney.com/LED_License_Pl ... 023089;0;0 http://www.jcwhitney.com/12-VOLT_LICENS ... 003366;0;0 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/8030-LED ... ccessories Actually I think I'm going to use the LED ones, but anyway I'm going to make a bracket to mount in the receiver mount. Center, covering the hole wired into trailer plug. (for my Jcr bumper) I got some bolt lights like the last link you posted. When mounted in the bolt locations, they were BARELY adequate, I wanted to mount them to the side of the plate, but it didn't even come close to illuminating it. I've had the second style too, decent light, but it extends way beyond the plate (not great for something that see's trails).

My bolt package came with 2 big (SAE) bolts to attach the hitch to the bumper, and 6 smaller metric bolts to replace the factory bumper bolts (I think). It also came with 6 big square washers, and nuts for every bolt. Tho the metric nuts were unplated, and the instructions say they were just for shipping purposes. :dunno: If I don't get the hitch to go with my bolts tomorrow I'll figure they got both our orders the same day, and decided we'd split the last hitch. :yes: If that's the case, my turn to use our hitch is next week.

That kind of looks like one of those bolt on receiver set-ups like HF sells. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Valley-H ... ccessories Not exactly like the pic, but:

Looks good. :cheers: Tho a 72 Blazer would have a passengers side ft diff. (unless it & the T-case were swapped)

Someone posted this on NAXJA too: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=244770750 & I'm still thinking it's not an 85 (or an 86). :yes:

You can move the brake lines down in front to gain a little (bend the hard lines, and screw the clamp at the bottom of the frame). Or use YJ lines if you need more (TJ's probably too, but I've only used YJ's). For the rear, YJ line again, and/or move the upper mounting point down. That useless bracket that holds the adjustable proportioning valve is actually a great place to mount the upper rear line. :yes:

:cheers: Describe the lift (control arm shape & style), and we can probably figure out who's kit it is. And it doesn't need to be finished to post pics. :yes:

I'll let you know when (If) I get mine. FedEx came yesterday, and dropped off a tiny box of nuts & bolts for it. :dunno: 8 nuts & bolts to mount it, shipped separately from the hitch itself. :nuts: The tracking number says the hitch itself will be here tomorrow, if I get it I'll see if it's tagged like yours.

I thought about it, but for $400 I could make mine perfect (or even pay someone to do it)

Sounds like that guy has "bopped his :banana:" one time to many to that Pawn Shop reality show. :rotfl2:

I would REALLY like a new factory bumper. That said, 1) I don't want a chrome one 2) Starting bid @ $280 is a little much 3) + $96.54 shipping (to Boston anyway) 4) + $15 'handling fee' I guess the great taillight rush of '10 has everyone pulling their NOS stuff out of the woodwork. :yes:

Even though others have posted that the factory supply of original bumpers had dried up, I dug out my parts books yesterday, found a web site that had decent prices for factory parts, and I started searching some of the factory part numbers. The original rear bumper part number came through as a valid number, current & available, for $120 each! I thought about ordering two, but kept my greed in check, and ordered just one. Filled in my credit card info, and went to sleep with a smile on my face. That only lasted till I got the E-mail today: "this part has been discontinued by the manufacturer". :( I had hope, because most of the other MJ stuff I tried to look up came through as discontinued, or number not found, so when the bumper # worked, and they let me order it, I thought I was in the clear. The other bad news is, a few years ago I had ordered & received a factory MJ rocker panel. While I was looking that part up, I searched the database for cab corners, roof panel, etc etc, almost every part came through as valid then, tho I only ordered the single rocker panel I needed. Welp, that's history now too. almost NOTHING (except for the bumper) came through as valid this time, no rockers, cab corners, etc etc. Guess I should've ordered more stuff a few years back, when I got the rocker, and hoarded it all.

Add your name to the list :yes: they're not supposed to start work on them till early Feb (according to Brian from JcrOffroad's posts in thisn thread anyway), so you're still early to the party. :D

Pulling the bed off an MJ almost always = doesn't start (atleast it has for me). Seems to be that the stock ground connection (black wire to sheetmetal of frame) gets corroded over time, and the only good ground connection left for the rear harness is at the taillights. You pull the bed (and unplug the taillights) = no fuel pump ground = no start. Can you hear the fuel pump spin? FWIW, when I had my interior out, I identified the ground wire in the bundle that runs by the drivers side rocker (inside the Jeep), and made a good ground connection right there.