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No inner seals @ the pumpkin Inner seals are just inboard of wheel bearings Jeep part #323 5929 Outer seals are outboard of wheel bearings Jeep part #324 0086 CJ seals should be Inner #317 0700 Outer #535 2662 (actually considered a basket in CJ application, not a seal). Inner real axle seals can be funny though, the MJ/XJ D44 drawing shows them, but they were missing in the 2 44's I took apart. I can't find the 87 parts book right now, so I can't say if the M20 & D44 spec the same inner seal (probably not tho)

Modified TPS;

The short block is exactly the same 1987-1995 (In 1996 they went to a smaller cam, & the lower end girdle) Some say earlier blocks had a higher nickel content, but that aside, the OBD I HO & Renix are the same below the head. If you are really thinking about swapping heads, you should atleast send it out for a valve job & change the main & rod bearings in the 'new' engine. Honestly though, modifying the TPS, and just using the mix of HO & Renix parts is a LOT less work. And you get around 10 more HP for your trouble.

Yep, big vacuum leak. Crazy idles on Renix's are usually electrical issues, but it still could be a mechanical/vacuum issue. You said the idle races at start up, does it calm down afterwards?

Yeah, even the easy way is hard ;) also; I didn't mention it since the HO donor vehicle was an automatic, but you also need a Renix flywheel with a Renix engine. The tooth count changed Renix to HO.

You could also check to see if your intake manifold bolts are tight. They do loosen up. I also unplugged my TPS when diagnosing my issue, I just can't remember what that did :) I'm running out of ideas.

You have to adapt the Renix TPS to the HO Throttle body, unless you want to use the Renix manifolds. Then you'll have an intake port mismatch with the higher port HO head. Plus the Renix TB and both manifolds are more restrictive than the HO stuff. It's been done, but you lose most of the benefit of the HO swap.

If you keep the Renix controls, the toughest part is adapting the Renix TPS to the HO throttle body. Basically chop down the HO TPS, and make it into a spacer to mount the Renix TPS to. You also have to adapt the fuel lines, and the HO head pipe needs to be used. You'll also need an HO air filter tube, and an HO throttle cable. EGR is deleted. I swapped the Renix CTS & Knock sensor in, though I don't know if the CTS was really any different. You also need to use the GM alternator from the Renix (& mounting brackets). If the engine came out of something other than an XJ/MJ, you'll need to use the XJ/MJ motor mount brackets, and the XJ/MJ 90* oil filter adapter. Keep the actual HO adapter that threads into the filter, since it takes a standard filter, not Metric like Renix engines That's all I can think or at the moment.

Oh, and maybe I misread your post, but don't use 15x10" wheels with 32x11.5's, especially on an XJ/MJ. Narrow is better for the wheel bearings, and tight ft wheelwells. I like 15x7's or 8's for 32x11.5's and 15x8 for 33x12.5 Even better if you don't mind tall & narrow is 33x10.5's on 15x6 to 15x7's

Find some used 32's, they're an in-between size, and are usually cheap when you find them. Mount em up, and see for yourself what you like. If you like the rpms in THIRD gear, you'd like 4.56's, since your current 3.55 rear is almost exactly what 4.56's will be in OD fourth. If highway driving in third is too rev-y for you 4.10's would probably suit you better. Who knows, you might even like the gears you have, 1st through 4th with 32's, Or you might think the tires themselves are not big enough. Then sell the 32's for what you paid, and start the testing all over again with 33's

Check the wires leading to your TPS I would get an intermittent high idle like that, move the wires around a bit, and it would calm down. On a different 4.0L it would take 20 seconds or so to start when cold, always followed by a high idle, till the excess fuel pumped in cleared out. On that Jeep, turning the key forward to the run position for a few seconds before cracking 'cured' the problem. On your Jeep, I'd check the whole harness for obvious issues (tho sometimes you can't see it) & look for a leaky injectors. If you haven't yet, taking the throttle body off, and completely cleaning it helps too. Something might be intermittently stopping the IAC from moving.

Back of cab, cab corners & roof were rattle canned to match doors, hood & fenders: then 'frame' was POR'd

North Carolina license plate BCJ 9881

Sorry for so many pics.... just better to tell the story with. Not all are 31's, but they do show 9.5",10.5",11.5"&12.5" wide tires on different bs wheels and how far they stick out: 30x9.5" on TJ 15x8's 5.5"bs 31x10.5 on 15x8's 5.25"bs same, on ZJ: 32x11.5 on factory 15x7's 5.25"bs 32x11.5 on Eagle 15x7's 4"bs (did NOT stick out as much as I thought they would) 35x12.5 on steel 15x8's 4.75"bs (borderline legal around here, rears tuck in pretty good, so no one really ever said anything to me)

Agreed that its tougher to stuff tires in when they stick out too far. When I went from 33x12.5's on 4.75"BS 15x8's to 3.75"BS 15x8's I had to move my ft flares up 4" or so to get the same amount of flex. If you look around enough, you can find a limited number of aftermarket wheels with XJ friendly 4.5-5.5" BS. I had some American Racing Aluminum wheels in 15x8's w/5.25"BS. Nice with 31x10.5's side view doesn't show stick out well, but you can see how shallow the wheels were on their front side, (AR Wheels; 15x8/5.25bs w/31x10.5 TrXus's on a friends Jeep)

Agreed, Those beds didn't last very long. I had a 73' J4000 (3/4 ton LWB) in 1993, bed floor was completely gone w/ a sheet of plywood covering what was left. First thing I did was tear the bed off with a prybar, and fold it in half. :( The last foot of framerail behind the shackles was swiss cheese too, but the rest was fine & the cab + floors were solid as well. Weird.

I got that part :) was just having fun with you Terra ;) Price is very cheap for having its bodywork all done That usually makes me suspicious that it may look better in pics than real life.

I didn't read the link, but going with an 8" wide vs 7" wide wheel has a big effect on this as well. Factory XJ,YJ & TJ 15x7's were 5.25" BS Factory TJ & YJ 15x8's were 5.5"BS to try to compensate for the added wheel width. For every inch under those BS numbers, your tire will stick out 1" more one per side than the factory wheels. Don't forget to take into consideration the added tire width. A 31x10.5 on a 4"BS 15x8 will stick out about 2" more than a stock TJ 30x9.5 on a TJ 15x8 w/5.5"BS. (1.5" more due to back spacing +.5" more due to 1" wider tire) Put the 31x10.5 on a 4"BS 15x7 and it will tuck back in 1/2-3/4" (assuming the tire width also shrinks about 1/2" overall with the 1" narrower wheel). If I'm looking for a little more track width compared with Stock Wheels, I really like 15x7's with 3.75-4" BS for narrow tire XJ/MJs. Tread usually it comes out even, or just past the front flare lip. 4.5"BS 15x7's or 4.75BS 15x8's if I'm trying to tuck them in a little more. Wide tires will edge past the flares even with 4.5-4.75" BS.

The price is very nice, but with that paint job I bet there's a red squeaky nose in the glove box, and clown shoes behind the seat ;)

I don't have my brochures here to check, but isnt the tailgate supposed to be stamped "JEEP"?

Last seen headed North on 25

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-chit-chat/1108819-omg-my-fj60-stolen-my-dog-inside.html guy's Toyota TLC and HIS DOG were stolen from Walmart yesterday; Sh*tty story :( Guy just wants his dog back

Awesome MJ! Thanks for posting it up :)

Congratulations!

I 'cleaned out' a dealership with a friend, and he did maybe 6 or 7 others on his own. All for AMC stuff & whatever else the made him take as part of the deal. He had 2 of the 'coffin nose' mid 70's Ambassador hoods. Mint-mint NOS, and he couldn't give them away lol! Also had every tune up part and filter imaginable for that short lived AMC built Audi/VW design 121" 4 cyl. It's amazing some of the stuff dealers have buried in their back rooms.