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^^ Nice job! we had 2 dogs show up on our doorstep over the years. Neither had tags but a trip by the local vets office found the owner of one, word of mouth found the other. I'm really hoping this guy gets his pooch back. My dogs 13 years old now, if I thought she could handle it I'd get a puppy this Christmas

There was no such thing as a Jeep Comanche when I got my license. :) Back then my daily driver was 13 years old and cost me $500 Now my daily driver is 23 years old and cost me $2300. guess I was smarter @16 than I am at 43.;)

I don't like the mismatch for a couple of reasons, the high port HO head is optimized for (relatively speaking) a higher rpm band than the Renix intake. Say you have a head optimized for (made up numbers) 2800-4800rpms and an intake optimized for (again I pulled these #'s out of my A) 1800-3800, each individual parts optimized 2000rpm wide powerband now combine to mismatch that is sort of optimized for the narrow 1000 rpm band were both parts are 'working'. ^^^ oversimplification but it explains why mixing & matching parts can hurt both upper, and lower rpm power. You can't put a tunnel ram on grandma's stock Buick, and putting on a 2 bbl intake won't make a stump puller out of a race engine. The other thing is a mismatch like a smaller, in this case, odd shaped intake on a bigger rectangle port head puts all kinds of turbulence in the port. And probably not the good kind to induce fuel atomization, but the bad kind that chokes off flow, and can do other nasty stuff. As far as doing the full-full HO swap (computer & all) hopefully that's in my future, but there are a lot of things on that to do list.

^^^ This has been done, but calling the port difference 'slight' is a stretch. See the carbon marks on this HO intake? It was used on a Renix head (opposite of using the Renix intake on an HO head, but same mismatch in reverse) It shows how much higher the HO ports are vs the Renix's from this thread; http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=450854 This pic shows how someone tried to open up the Renix intake so top is more square (like HO intake above) Image Not Found Notice how the top part of the Renix intake is a completely different shape? (bottom pic is stock unmodified Renix intake, modified Renix on top) So you certainly can bolt the Renix intake to the HO head, but I'd spend the $ for a head gasket & a valve job to keep the Renix head with the Renix intake before I'd bolt a Renix intake to an HO head.

It is your Comanche Club DUTY to go check it out and take lots and lots of pics!!! ;) Please :) It probably takes 12 miles to turn that thing around, so he can drop you off at your house afterward.

^^^That should have fixed it^^^ Great thread Terra :)

:) http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/3460772384.html

I keep checking the Pirate thread for good news. None yet :(

Awesome! It's hard to argue with a bolt in complete, rebuilt engine for $1200. Even with the extra work involved. Hopefully the guy who installed the last engine's cam bearing called in sick the day they built your new one :)

I looked through some old threads, and I forgot to mention the distributor (again) I never bothered to research if it made any difference, or not, but to be on the safe side, I pulled the HO distributor out, and used the Renix one when I did the swap. And don't forget you have to use the HO throttle cable. Renix just doesn't reach I also needed to swap in an HO gas pedal to get full throttle, I had one, so I didn't try to modify the Renix pedal. Some threads; http://comancheclub.com/topic/26267-renix-to-ho-swap/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/26844-swapping-a-1995-40l-into-an-88/page__hl__renix#entry276885 http://comancheclub.com/topic/16812-late-model-intake-swap-caution-renix-content/ Talks about gas pedal; http://comancheclub.com/topic/22644-ho-head-swap-questions/page__hl__renix#entry237533

Countdown to the YOUNGEST Comanche becoming 21 years old! (Drinking age lol)

thank you! :) Standing over my own bastardized hybrid ;) ... Yup, renix electrical harness on HO injectors -check Swapped alternator AND mounting brackets -check + vacuum hoses (really not many left if you ditch the airbox) +minor bolt ins of the coolant temp sensor @ rear of head (I left the unused HO sensor in the thermostat housing) &knock sensor just above the oil pan. Biggest thing after all the above + what you mentioned is the fuel lines. You have to use the HO fuel rail, so you have to shorten one, or both of the MJ's fuel lines to work with the lines on the HO rail (I forget if I had to shorten 1 or both) ^ IIRC, I made new ends for the quick release connectors with a flare tool & some practice If you were swapping in a 96+ engine you'd have to get a 91-95 fuel rail (96+ = no return line) If you have a YJ/ TJ/ZJ engine you'll need to swap the smaller XJ/MJ fan drive on + motor mount brackets & possibly the 90* oil filter adapter. And Heater hoses, Most people upgrade to the HO's cooling system too, & eliminate the renix's heater-hose tangle of snakes. IIRC, for me this meant I deleted a valve that routes coolant away from the heater core when its not needed there. There is a heater hose diverter valve available for HO's, I just didn't have one, and never got one. I'm a little foggy on this since the swap was 6 years ago, or so. You should be able to retain the renix closed cooling system if desired, but its not the greatest thing ever. (Ho cooling system requires heater hoses, radiator, and a place to mount the new overflow bottle). Hopefully someone else will jump in here in case I missed anything. Good luck!

Since you are calling it a reman engine, I guess it was bought remanned from someplace, Vs farming out all the machine & assembly work yourself? Hopefully the next one is much better. I just don't trust these do-it-all reman factories to put out consistent quality work. It is tough to beat their prices for a ready to bolt in, warrenteed, rebuilt engine. In the end, provided they stand behind it, I guess it'll only cost you a little time & effort to redo the swap. Good luck!

Lol Absolutely was not a shot at you (seems you know that from the :laughin:) Just clarifying since I normally wouldn't suggest doing the extra work to keep the Renix head. My advice would be something like; 1)swap in a random, of the millions available 91-95 4.0L HO 2)if that dies, refer to step 1 Keeping it all Renix does have its good points, if/when my daily driver Renix craps out, I'm pretty sure I WILL be keeping that one all Renix for originality reasons. Ok Since this is an advice forum, and you did post your financial situation, I would use the money for school. Since you said your GPA was no where near where it needed to be, you need to figure that part out as well, or you'll have to eventually go down the road you don't want to (student loan debt) And don't knock being a sod laying grunt either ;) As a life long sod layer (electrician) working with your hands AND mind has some benefits too. Good luck!

If you are talking about the cab vent behind the window, I think those little push in connectors are in the Help! section at most parts stores. I think the door panels use a similar push in connector. Good luck & welcome to CC!

I have a YJ/HO harnesses & computer somewhere, if I ever get around to swapping the later horseshoe intake on, maybe I'll use that as an excuse to do the full HO swap at the same time. Atleast I know who to ask if I get in over my head :)

Yeah, I just finally clicked on your thread. That sucks getting the run around Hope you get it up & running soon.

If money is an issue, Another 4.0L is the best answer. I don't think you said what was wrong with the original, but from the other thread you seem to prefer to keep your Jeep all Renix, so I suggest you clean up your Renix head at home, ship it out for a valve job. Go look around for an 87-95 HO (96+ have smaller cams) Hopefully you get to hear it run first, get the first one with decent oil pressure, and without the worn piston skirt diesel noise Do a compression test (you can even do this on a stand) Pull the head (yours will be going on) Yank the pistons/rods out, clean everything like you plan to eat off it. Clean up the threads, get all the gunk out of the coolant passages, If the cylinder walls & pistons/rings look ok, slide them back in. If the compression test was ok, remember the budget & use the rings that it came with. Change the rod & main bearings. I never saw a used AMC 6 that didn't have the rod bearings worn down to the copper. Bolt it all back together, with your machined head, and hopefully you stayed in your budget. Drink beer (if age appropriate ;) )

Where were you when I did my HO to Renix swap? ;) Did you use the speedo sensor for the HO? Isn't there a 1 year only speed sensor that also retains the cable drive speedometer? (1991?)

Yeah, When I pulled an MJ D44 apart, there were no signs of it EVER having inner seals, even though the parts book showed them. I started a thread here, and IIRC, no one else had a 44 with them installed either. (all lubing with gear oil instead of grease) Like Robs pics show, the non-c clip 35's DID get them. (The D35 axles got fatter in 87' when the 4.0L came out, so there's actually an early seal, then a slightly bigger 87-89 seal) C-clip D35's lube the bearings with gear oil, and only have outer seals.

Also, I don't think I ever took pics to compare them, but there is a big difference between the HO & Renix head Renix basically cleaned up the 258 head (intake & exhaust) then added little half circles at the top of the intake ports for some room to locate & aim the injectors. Chrysler came along and raised the entire intake port, squared off the top, and greatly improved the flow. They also made the intake manifold bigger, the throttle body bigger, and turned the Renix's so-so tubular exhaust into a decent flowing, shorty header. It did give up some bottom end torque, and as a proud AMC guy I would always point that out, but side by side its easy to see how superior the later stuff really is. You could always build a throttle body adapter to keep the renix TB & TPS intact, but that TB is a choke point even with the Renix head

YesTooth count is different. CPS won't trigger correctly with the wrong flywheel. = won't run Which is easier depends on a lot of things. A professional shop probably wouldn't touch a hybrid HO/Renix swap. Figuring it out, adapting & making the *wrong* parts work = time AND money AND has the risk of turning into a job that keeps coming back. Also future parts interchangability is a big problem down the road when things wear out. For a shop, 'by the book' is the best way. I get that. But doing the fuel lines wasn't tough, the vacuum lines were a cake walk too. The EGR goes away with the manifolds, throw the relay away and its over. You do have to get, and adapt an HO head pipe to the exhaust to have a spot for the O2 sensor. The newest Renix is 22 years old, so HO into Renix swap is pretty common now, with builds on line to follow, so its really not that difficult. Either way works, but if I was going to rebuild the bottom end, I'd slip a stroker crank in there ;)

Edit I found a later book, and THOUGHT CJ inners are the same, but they are not. Neither CJ axle seal matches The FSJ seals match, Inner & outer (outer is also same as D44) Inner 324 0086 Outer 323 5929 ^^^^^^^ For 81-86 Full Size Jeeps w/M20 & for 86 Comanche M20