Megadan

Buying an MJ is never a mistake. The months it's down as you try and make it work in complete frustration is a right of passage. I spent 7 months tinkering with mine and replacing half of it before I ever drove it. When I did my CPS and my AX-15, I drilled the one hole out larger and also "converted" it to a high altitude CPS , which moved the pickup closer to that larger hole,and then pushed it down toward the flywheel while I tightened the bolts. I get a consistent .57V even now (two years later) Before that I generally got about a .36V

It's not really the sensor, but the ECU. They have a "range" that they are set to ignore. Like I said, older vehicles probably aren't as sensitive as most modern ones, so it may not make much difference. Just stating it as something to keep in mind.

Well, I got a chance and talked to somebody, sounds like it has the 4.2 in it, but they didn't sound very sure.

The placement of knock sensors is a somewhat sensitive thing. OE's spend quite a bit of time finding a position in the block that sees the least amount of background noise (engine running sounds) but still in a good enough location near the cylinders to detect pin. Not sure how critical this is on an older system like the Renix units, but on a lot of modern cars that knock sensor location gets a lot of thought, and the sensors and ECU themselves get calibrated and tuned to the noise they are supposed to hear. Moving the sensor location can increase or alter the background noise it is supposed to ignore to a level that may trigger the ECU to pull timing. I ran into this issue with a previous Isuzu when I moved the knock sensor up the block closer to the head. The valvetrain is noisy from the factory , and it was causing it to pull timing and run poorly.

The want is there, I don't mind the carb either. My available funds are too tight at the moment. If it's still up in a couple of weeks I might get it. Would be nice to have a backup vehicle. The nice thing is, since I want to upgrade to large tires on the Comanche, I could put the coopers currently installed on the Eagle and they would fit, so I wouldn't have to worry about new tires for both.

I won't say talk me out of it, but I figure if I don't buy this maybe somebody here is crazy enough. Always wanted a wagon. http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/5596000400.html

A big problem you will have with the crank signal is that it's not a typical missing tooth setup like a 36-1. I know the HO Models have an 18-2-2-2 trigger sequence in an inverted style signal setup. The nice thing about using a megasquirt is that they included all of the Jeep crank signals in their firmware now, and you can do a plug and play EMS to retain the factory wiring. You may want to contact AEM and see if their tech guys can tell you if that device can decode the Jeep crank signals.

I've seen HO blocks up to 96 with the threaded hole for the knock sensor. Did not know that one. Gives me a wider year range to look for.

1: Yes and No. Renix era blocks have a provision for a knock sensor, HO models do not, otherwise they are pretty much interchangeable. 2. The M90 is actually sized out to about a 4.0L engine at max. They will work fine for low boost, but can't flow enough air in relation to the engine to create higher boost levels, unlike a turbo, a roots blower creates boost pressure based off of resistance to the airflow it displaces at a given rotor speed relative to the engines VE at the coinciding engine RPM. 3. General rule of thumb says the supercharger, but there are a lot of factors to account for.

I've read nothing but good things about the Napier flares. I plan to try and get a set sometime this year. Not too bad on the pricing either. Website: http://www.napierprecisionproducts.com/V2-Jeep-Comanche-MJ-Cherokee-XJ-2-Door-Fender-Flares-Black-V2-B-2DR.htm

In my case, because I didn't have a shifter to start with, and the time spent trying to find one (manual Jeeps are a rare find around here) and then modding it wasn't worth as much as being able to order one.

Do you plan on making a brace or two for the turbo to support the weight? That thin turbing and a bigger turbo with high temps are going to push those welds to their limits and eventually crack. Wouldn't hurt to make a brace or two.

Inspect the bushings and see if they are severely cracked or missing chunks of rubber. Never hurts to give the ball joints and tie rod ends a good shake either.

I have had the Cooper AT3 in 235/75-15 on my truck for nearly 3 years and 14k miles. Still have lots of tread left, still nice and quiet on the road and runs nice. No dry rot showing or funny wear. They ride great, grip well on pavement, are ok in the snow and amazing in the wet. I'm quite impressed with them and would buy another set if/when given the chance. For the money you can't go wrong with them IMHO. I got them at a local shop during a sale for $103 installed a wheel with an extra $18 a pop for road hazard that I paid for.

I have standard replacement leaf springs from General Spring. After they settled, they measure out exactly at stock ride height as measured by FSM instructions

I had an old late 80's S10 2.8V6 for a little while that had 190k on it and ran and drove strong after a bit of tune up and a couple of replacements (Distributor and Map sensor). As long as they were decently cared for, they are pretty reliable. The interior was garbage, but that's kind of a GM trademark, otherwise a decent truck. Buddy of mine just bought a 91 2.8 with 230k, 2wd. Put 100 bucks into it, and runs great. Just needs an exhaust to be a good daily/beater. Also had an uncle who bought one new and drove it for 17 years before he got tired of it and sold it off, still ran strong. About the only thing I tell people to avoid is the 2.2 cyl in the late 90's models. Any of the V6's will be great as long as they weren't abused too hard.

The Iron rock arms are offered straight or bent for the lowers. Unless you want something in between the two.

Like this? http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/IR-SHDCA.html

Sounds like a bad piston seal on the master or slave. This can cause the same issue and not show any signs of leaking.

Why not do the SOA with those RE springs? It might be a bit more lift than you want, but it works with what you already have.

I think those relocation brackets should work. Thanks! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk No problem. I just went through this same situation lol. Those brackets work great.

These might be of interest. http://comancheclub.com/topic/49830-did-my-lift-swaybar-clearance/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/50203-whats-wrong-with-my-sway-bar/ The sway bar relocation brackets/mounts in the second link might be of the most interest to you if you already have longer links.

Quality LED's goes back to the price thing I mentioned. Spending hundreds of dollars to get a marginal lighting improvement just doesn't seem worth it to me. Quality bulbs tend to run around $25 each (for something brighter and that will last a decent amount of time), and you would be looking at 6 to 8 bulbs. I've run LED's in previous vehicles, and while brighter, they just don't offer enough improvement for me to warrant spending that kind of money. Just my personal opinion.

You will either need to convert to a digital turn signal relay, or put in ballast resistors inline to the bulb circuits to keep the same resistance on the circuit like that of the incan. bulbs. The resistors aren't really that expensive, and would probably allow you to run all of the features without any problems, but require more work, and room since you have to mount them somewhere. IMHO, while the idea of LED's is cool, I have yet to really run into an LED bulb replacement that was bright enough to warrant using them, that was at least reasonably priced. Honestly, you would probably see more improvement by trying to increase the reflectivity of the housings the bulbs sit in than upping the output of the bulbs.

I know on the 4.0L you can get at it with removing the fan. The 2.5 may require removing the bracket and maybe radiator, but I have no working experience with the 2.5 trucks, just had a visual look around of the engine bay.