knever3

Hmmmm, this makes me wonder if I should cobble together a new one based on my throttle body. I have a Renix engine control harness from a '90, but I have a new throttle body by BBK, this means the tip not being the same shape might be the reason for the inability to idle correctly. Has anyone spliced a newer IAC motor to the Renix wiring because they are running a newer style intake and throttle body? This would be awesome if I could fix this, been a thorn in my side for over 10 years!!

After some poking around the internet it looks like the radio is supposed to work with the HVAC on ACC. During crank both should shut off while the key is fully forward, then when returned to RUN the ACC accessories should be energized once again. I think I have a mis-adjusted ignition switch. I found an adjustment procedure that I will do when I install my steering column. For some reason I couldn't for the life of me get the key in the correct position and ACC to work, so I think I gave up at some point and just settled for what it is. That won't be the case the next time around!! This thread:

I FINALLY got my Bosch fuel pump from ebay via USPS, albeit 3 days after I initially expected. The problem I see is they did the whole bait and switch. The pump and listing I ordered was a Bosch 69302, but the pump has no numbers that resemble this. The part number is 0580453473, and I can't cross it to the 69302. I am pretty bummed about this since I don't know if it is a replacement pump, and for the ebay seller to list as such. What should I do? I don't know the specs of this pump, nor do I know if it is a direct replacement for the 69302 I already have installed. On the ebay ad it shows a cross reference to the part number, but the pump has a smaller pickup and a tiny sock. I am VERY reluctant to put this in and waste my time. What would you do? This would be easy if a parts store could simply get one, or have one in stock. At least the truck still runs, for now... https://www.ebay.com/itm/145861307178

I have a used steering column going in sometime, but I have some questions. I feel I don't have the current one adjusted correctly. I replaced the ignition switch a while back and made sure the brown connector wasn't melted. I never had ACC power, when I turn the switch back, nothing happens, no radio. I replaced the switch and tried adjusting, but still no ACC power. The radio comes on and stays on during crank, so that is supposed to be on ACC power. Maybe I have the wires wrong on the ignition? I will need to verify colors to the plugs. Does your radio work when you turn the key back to ACC? Does it stay on during crank? I want to get this nailed down before pulling it apart.

I temp. bypassed the ballast resistor, no difference. I didn't check voltages though. I ordered a new replacement Bosch fuel pump from ebay. It was supposed to arrive Friday, then Saturday, now, who knows when. USPS sucks. I will do some more testing before replacing again. I installed that pump in 2016, so it's not that old. I can't believe I couldn't find that Bosch 69302 pump anywhere, I bought it on Amazon and I remember back then no one could order it. Maybe it's been superseded and it has a new part number. Again, no one had the pump so I had to order one off ebay. By the way, I am running a '95 fuel pressure regulator, so my fuel pressure was 45-49psi if I remember correctly, not the 39psi that the Renix runs. I am running 21lb injectors. I will update this once I replace and check the values later.

I cycled the ignition listening for the relay to click. The gauge never moves until I cranked, then it would immediatly drop back to zero.

Had 5 minutes, re-adjusted throttle plate stop to just rest on the screw. Hooked up fuel pressure gauge and cycled the ignition several times. No fuel pressure, check valve on pump bad. When it did run my reading was 23psi, should be 45 and it did not go up when throttle applied. Bummer, this pump lasted 15 years.

I have had so much trouble with this, full backstory. 4.7L stroker, 99 intake, BBK throttle body, Hesco TPS adapter It has struggled to idle at a constant speed, hunting up and down RPM from 300-800 RPM, can't confirm unless I hook up my MT2500, just gauge reading. It seems to be worse in the winter months, I use remote start and let it idle for 20-25 minutes to warm up for a 6 minute drive LOL I was tired of it so I turned the allen screw to increase the RPM at idle and it doesn't surge that I notice anymore. Now the idle is too high, about 1k and I don't like it. Turned it back down and it takes 10 seconds to start, like it is not firing the ignition and you need to pedal it to get it to start like a carb. I want to set the idle screw correctly and remove/clean the IAC again. I've replaced it years ago, but never solved the problem. I have worked with grounds everywhere, measured the TPS voltage several times. I have not checked the AC voltage for the CPS yet. Where do I go from here? I always thought it was temperature related, but who knows.

Well, this thread may be why my buzzer never worked, maybe I have the wrong switch on the drivers side, or the wires are wrong. Thanks!!

I will update when installed. I am going to wait till spring when I can drive my car though. I feel this is going to be a "While you're in there" project since I have so much wiring under the dash. Just for reference: My truck is an '87, it was manual, it had no cruise, non-tilt, no delay wipers, so I swapped in a '90 Cherokee non-tilt column Auto. It didn't have delay wipers or cruise so I put both modules in and ordered a cheap cruise stalk. The stalk was garbage, when I installed it I pulled it out the first time because the delay portion was jammed against the inner part making it hard to turn. When I pulled it out the shaft came out, the knurling wasn't enough to hold it onto the plastic. Some glue made it work, but it was still tough to turn. My headlight switch is bad because my interior lights sometimes work, sometimes not, right side, or no pillar lights. I have a new headlight switch. I installed a remote start and keyless entry, adding door actuators and that wiring is under the dash. Of course, the gigantic ECM, cruise module, sentinel (that doesn't work), door buzzer that doesn't buzz when the key is in/door open, or when the headlights are turned on. There is a 4 wire harness that goes left to right, one wire being the lockup for the torque converter, the other 3 I don't have a clue since my electrical manual shows the wires being another color altogether. My drivers side footwell light I sourced from ebay only works when the key is in the ignition, the other footwell one works fine when either door is opened. As you can see, I have a LOT of work to do! Oh yeah, a crossover stuffed in the kick panel from a component set I am ditching since I am going active with a Helix DSP and two amps. Whew!

Thanks! I kind of wanted a black one, but with the new tilt column lever being chrome, might as well!

What part number? I would like to buy a nice one, not some cheap thing. I have seen these from $15-$160

First off, this should not be this difficult. I cannot find a cruise control switch/stalk, turn signal lever, whatever you call it. My usual go-to is RockAuto, but they don't have anything listed for any year Jeep Cherokee/Comanche. I would expect this to be similar to any GM product, but the information is all over the place. The usual parts stores don't list anything either. Sure, I could buy 10 different foreign ones from Amazon that state they fit, but it seems like Omix/Dorman/Standard would make something like this. I looked through these websites and they don't list anything whatsoever. Just so we're clear, this is what I am looking for: 1987 Comanche, Auto, Tilt column, Delay Wipers, Cruise Control

Working on a few things again. Headlight switch is touchy, when I wiggle it my interior pillar lights flicker on and off. Radio upgrades in process, steering column still looking. I think I might have to settle for a tilt column. My buddy still watching.

Yeah, that's true, crazy part is I should have kept my old manual one. Everything on it was perfect, only had 39,000 miles on it. Looking back I should have made different choices.

Do you think a junk yard 400 miles away would ship? I would like to verify that it's good and functional before just taking a chance.

I've been looking for a column for years nothing has turned up within 200 miles.

This must be a joke: https://classictruck.com/1984-87-windshield-wiper-switch-sku-67-657c Seriously? This can't be that hard to find, or expensive.

I want to buy a new wiper switch for my column unless I run across a new/used column. I can't for the life of me find the one I need. 1987 Jeep Comanche Auto, Floor shift NON-Tilt Delay Wipers The ONLY thing I see with the traditional non-delay wipers is maybe a few wires in that block that goes through the column. I'm sure this exact part is meant for ALL GM columns that are non-tilt, non-delay. EVERY single one I click on is for a non-delay. It can't be that hard! Please prove me wrong. My stalk has always been droopy, I hate turning my bright lights on, my turn signals click SO hard when I pull up, not so much when I pull down for left. I would like a new turn signal stalk as well. My frustration led to it getting slightly bent. LOL The one I have is crap, I had to glue it to the knurled shaft since it spins.

I'm researching options now... I'll check back thanks!!

Anyone know of one? Link if so, thanks!

I would like to buy a used blank switch panel and mount something directly in the middle. Did they ever make one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/255005662816?_skw=jeep+cherokee+switch+panel&epid=1411077221&itmmeta=01JDDE4HBSP52YBKRZJ4ZXS242&hash=item3b5f859e60:g:hh4AAOSwMgxguoN3&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmBJ7fVhmREOePiQnYwK8olfBOvt6NFIcmU1Nb1WNHHkGHVPzQc%2FgSrCPMCqYwpmUsiKYQcqGeYbAgpW7TWP%2FR365QyfzzlM%2F7FL2AQ4ekfEz1I7Yp9UKNZHBnTat48x4ZbA98bLhAfoyF3yGHSYvMJUwoPIkn%2F35pZVLMKjLDJlm2I1XTqdTGbd0NQYmkFkEWWYHgInkOFS%2FlgrA5oFwFo%2BsFUklXBwZccbrkyTKfOsIYJE8go5xV6a8IyDtBGY6j86zDziXuFBttK1%2B8xaI4N|tkp%3ABk9SR6iWkq7rZA Like this, but with no switches, just the cover no blanks installed either. I want it to look factory so sure I could paint a piece of plastic, but wondered if they ever made one without the rectangle holes.

$175 for 1/4" masonite? Wow, cool idea though.

Page 4 shows my wiring at the time, whew, what a mess I had to deal with. You can see there is a fuse in the proper location here.

The fuse box outside is from the '90 to get rid of the C101 connector, inside may still be from the '87. It's all a blur from 10 years ago now. I'll have to go through my thread and under my dash to see. I dread taking it ALL apart, if I get a good steering column than it will be totally worth it!!