knever3

Wow, awesome specs and parts list. Money well spent love the trucks.

So here's the update today. I went to Advance to get yet another flexplate for a '90 XJ/MJ. It was sealed and when I opened it up to compare it was exactly the same as the first three I saw. I took some comparison pictures for you all to noodle on. Old one with the crack, reason for the whole debacle. Old one vs. new one. New one sitting on top of the old one indexed with the crank bolt pattern. As you can see what I was talking about the timing windows are "off" between the two. Here's some pics of the CPS. I haven't found the number on the cps usefull for a cross reference. The number doesn't turn up anywhere. I haven't tried to test the sensor yet and I don't have a timing light since I don't have any carburated cars.

The CPS is new since I put together the truck. I ran it for about 1000 miles I figure. I don't know why the CPS would not read one flywheel and then another. Tomorrow Advance will get in another '90 flexplate. I might take some pics and upload them to give you guys a look. I will also check the CPS for damage when I'm under there.

The bolts can only be put in one way. If you rotate the flexplate all of the bolts will only align one way.

Ok dead end again. The part i had was for a 90. The dealer part numbers crossed to the dorman or atp one i ordered. So i can't find out why the timing is off when i installed it the first time. I am about over this stupid problem, every time ineed to order the part. The 91 was way different, i also checked with the dealer and the part is no longer available through them.

That looks very scary, don't ever use a cherry picker to lift a truck and work under it without jack stands. :eek:

I called AutoZone today and they put me on hold to help customers in the store, for more than 7 minutes to which I hung up. I tried again at 6pm. The same guy answered and they have one in stock for a '91 for $93.00. Way more expensive than the '87-90 one I had ordered from Advance Auto. I don't remember the part number for those two. So fingers crossed tomorrow I will take my old one to AutoZone to see if it matches up. Hopefully I can talk them down on price too!! To be continued...

I still have the '90 donor. The reason is because my '87 was a manual, the '90 was an auto with A/C, both which I wanted. The computer is up under the dash. My '87 had the c101 connector, the '90 did not.

Thanks for posting the numbers, but how do I figure out what flex plate to buy if the one it "should" be isn't the correct one? All I can think of is to call the dealer with the vin from the '90 donor and cross reference that to an aftermarket part. Except it's the weekend as uaual. :soap box: I wish dealers had an 800 number you can call for help and a linked computer to the network to see if my closest one had the part. This whole year it seems it's been the weekends when I need something from the dealer. Go figure.

I have a friend that has a '81 Cutlass and it was like pulling teeth to get someone to do paint and body work for his car. The real reason they don't want to do a job like that is the time. Now just like the rest of society they want quick money. Insurance jobs give them that, wham bam jobs with a guaranteed fat check. That way they don't have to deal with that pita customer that loves their car and just wants the job done right. I finally referred my friend to a local guy who works out of his home but is a paint guy from a local Ford dealer. He quoted him 10 months and it's already been more than 12 and the car is finally in primer. The real kicker is they don't even let you get to ask how much it would be, they just slam the door in your face and say they are too busy. My take, find a person that does great work on the side and look at his projects that he has done for other people if you want a good job.

Specs first, 1987 Jeep Comanche had 4.0L 2wd ba-10/5 Installed aw-4 trans, 242 case and all under hood wiring and fuse box from 1990 XJ. Ran fine until I noticed the flex plate knock. Thought it was a rod bearing so I decided to install my stroker motor. '96 block and head, kept all the renix stuff including the flywheel from the last motor, which was from the '90 donor. After noticing the noise was on the new motor I removed the flex plate and ordered a new one for an '87 Comanche. I noticed that the windows in the outer ring were in different locations than the old one I pulled. Sure enough, installed it and the timing is so far off it won't start. Ordered one for the '90 XJ and it turned out to be the same part. So the question is which flex plate do I need? I have the renix system but the clue is that the donor XJ had a Chrysler sticker under the hood instead of an AMC one. I am assuming trying a '91? The part has no markings on it so I can't cross reference. The parts aren't a stock item so I would have to order them and match them up. Thoughts?

A paint shop is almost as important as picking a good day care. If you don't feel comfortable with one then go farther out to look for another. It's a lot of tedious work that anyone can do wrong, few can do right. If you plan on just taking it on the trails go LineX. If you plan on washing it and driving it go paint. I can't imagine the wind noice and the drag of all LineX. They do make a smooth product now that is fade proof but it's extra. Go figure. I would love to make a trail truck and do LineX, but anything would be great with an unlimited budget and storage space!!

Love it!

How about their government in total disregard of copyrights? Check this out, it gets real interesting about 4 minutes in. http://vimeo.com/40226173

Replaced the cracked flywheel today. I have some small things to do to take it on a longer ride to make sure the air/fuel ratio is correct. Getting closer. I also picked up a topper for camping.

Such a great looking truck. Love the color choice and fit and finish is stellar.

Wow, I'm blown away from watching that clip. I didn't know a show like that existed, especially with an actor that was raised in Michigan and believes in us as a state and as a country. That is what America needs to hear, the truth... Now, is it going to take another 9/11 to get people to think about America again? Lets pray that that doesn't have to happen.

Buy Hella lights, made ANYWHERE but China such as Germany is better than nothing. I love mine, kind of spendy but totally worth it. Now if I can just find someone who makes headlight asseblies for my Grand Prix.

I'd like to say one thing, all these years I saw those bumper stickers that read "BUY AMERICAN!" up until this very moment I thought it was just about a pissin' match between automakers. :doh:

Awesome, love your pictures. Can't wait to visit sometime!!!!!!!!!

Ok, lets just start this one with a question. What do you think of the trade agreements the US and China have going? I am referring to the way we ship raw materials or parts over to China to have them made or assembled and ship them back for our consumption. I say consumption because we are consumers of China products because for the most part they are disposable. Not worth saving or repairing with new "China" parts. This isn't even scratching the surface as to what 3rd rate materials they use to make our brake rotors we "consume" every year. I have so many random thoughts about this post I can hardly group them. Lets start by the latest one: Went on an excellent trip out to Baltimore, D.C. and Annapolis last week or so, went to Ft. McHenry and visited the souvenir shop. Ft. McHenry and Baltimore are most proud of the Star Spangled Banner song and the American Flag. So what do I find in the souvenir shop but EVERYTHING including American flags made in China. Same goes for the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum. The SR-71 hat is made in China but the ultra thin literally see thru T-shirt says made in USA. Totally backwards. I bet the shirt will make it a couple years before I have to throw it away. I can find a better T-shirt at any Meijer. It doesn't help that you have to pay the premium price just because it's in the shop. I can't believe after picking it up I could see light through the other side. I have been keeping track of the purchases I have made. I try my best to buy American like the Brown Dog motor mounts with an American Flag sticker proudly adhered to the sides. My wife and I are expecting a little boy in January so I am not looking forward to buying more China junk and worrying about what kind of paint they put on it or what he chews on. Glad I saved all my old steel Tonka trucks and John Deere tractors for him to play with when he gets moving!!! America is an ever changing place, if we don't change for the better soon China will be the #1 country in the world. They already control world trade and hold a stout investment in our future because we have run out of money somehow. We built China now lets concentrate on rebuilding America!!! Sincerely,

After reading the AMSOIL web page description it looks like it's basically identical to Castrol's "Chain Wax". I used it on my Suzuki GSX-R'S chain. You needed to ride it for a couple of miles because the wax sticks better with a little heat. I sprayed the chain with brake parts cleaner first before applying. The idea is to lubricate and seal with the wax, repells water and dust. http://www.amazon.com/Castrol-Chain-Wax-8oz-12367/dp/B002KOCL7Y/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1

The transfer case isn't designed to go into 4lo when in drive if that's what you're referring to. If you want to go into 4lo you need to shift the trans into neutral at a stop because of the gear reduction and in the 242 it locks the front and rear diffs together unlike fulltime 4wd which they have a limited slip type of effect. To go from 2wd to 4wd full time or part time and back you should be able to do that in drive. If it grinds the linkage isn't adjusted right. Those factory shift gates are EXACTLY where it should end up to mesh the gears correctly. That said mine do not line up yet. I'll keep you posted on that, I have a house project putting the Jeep on the back burner. :ack:

Sweetness

How did the transfer case perform?