Automan2164

I would just start with all the maintenance items and filters... As for reaching out for help... You are going to be more or less on your own. opsled has been deep into his, but he doesn't get on much. I can only be of so much help, but I am going to be regurgitating what is in the book for the most part. The pics show a lot of work ahead, I would wait to get hands on it and give it a big once over so you can get everything all at once. Getting this thing back on the road will be more like a marathon than a sprint, so take your time and sharpen your patience. My biggest item I could tell you to add to your parts list is a set of FSM's. Rob

Next step... Start collecting these. This re-pop book I got off eBay is actually a few manuals in one: Got this one off ebay also: Then the LaserDiscs...

This is the seller I bought them from. He currently only has 4 items for sale. http://www.ebay.com/usr/ulricheckstein Rob

Sounds a bit on the pricey side, especially because I had bought 2 at the time. If I would have had to pay $260, I'd have never bought more than one... I'll do some digging. Rob

Try a few, or just see if Rock auto has a gasket set. You might be better off than me if you've been exposed to the French language, as a lot of the Renault parts aren't in english. Rog

Yep. Pick up a gasket kit for it. I bought a couple complete sets of eBay from Hamburg Germany. Rob

Yes!

Kinda late now, I'll shoot you my number, give me a call sometime tomorrow afternoon. Rob

It's worth whatever you will pay for it. I would think about $2K US would be my top. Rob

What he said, Ben just beat me to it. Rob

I have to imagine that the gains some see may be from just the actual replacement of the injectors. If you have a well kept fuel system in good order, I'm sure the gains wouldn't be as much as if you were replacing worn, tired injectors. I am excited to see what they might do, but I want to try to get a tank or two through it so I can evaluate any difference from a more level plane. Rob

The ride/alignment is just as it was before. The power now seems a lot smoother and more complete. Just off idle when pulling away from a stop light, the difference is noticeable. It requires a lot less pedal to get the same effort as before. The top end I don't play with much. I dropped the hammer twice now just to see, and it lunges forward with a lot more enthusiasm. I wish I would have been able to drop in a stock airbox so I could get a clean comparison of what contributed more to the power gains, but I just wanted to get it on the road. I also have a set of 703 injectors waiting on the bench. I tend to drive like an old man so I am more after smooth efficiency. I'm hoping that because it requires less pedal to get the same result as far as power goes, that I can see some gains. More power is great and all, but I rarely would need it. I only go 5 over the speed limit at most, and use cruise constantly. Last tank on the XJ before just filling was a 19.4 MPG average. Best so far was a highway trip where I filled up just before getting on, then did again on the way back home. Got 25.4 IIRC. Rob

Well... It's back on the road, but lets do the picture story version: In addition to the accident damage, I upgraded the intake manifold, added a cold air intake from BigSarge since my airbox got crushed, the the V/C gasket, and finally resprayed/mounted my Jeep/Mopar cargo bin I picked up in the JY. Rob

I guess I should elaborate. Easy, maybe after a few. Hard, not at all. I would consider the dash to be something that isn't as difficult or technical as it is time consuming to those who have never done one. There isn't any real difficult hardware to reach or things to overcome, just a lot of little steps to remember. I can have a dash out in about a half hour with the right tools. I have a good number of them under my belt however. Yella, I've never ran into the delicate portion of what you are talking about. Maybe it's a climate thing. Obviously care is needed to make sure nothing damages the pad in removal, but that's about all I could say for difficulty. Rob

Changing out a whole dash board really isn't all that hard. If the pad is what you are after, just find a good dash in the JY. The pad is a non-replaceable thing anyway. Rob

Just curious, how does RC do the lift in the back? Pack? Or AAL? Rob

Looks fantastic. I am always a fan of the 'Spinnaker Blue'. I had one this color when I was in highschool. The lift looks great, and the tires/wheels look perfect. My only constructive criticism would be to fix the wheel weights. Toss some black on them or have the tire shop balance them on the inside lip. Love the black wheel and the touch of silver in the center caps. The weights draw my eyes back to the lip though. Looking good. Rob :cheers:

Sent him an email. Rob

The MJ has an XJ double for the destruction. Watch it again, and look for the cues. Rob

Yes. There is an inner oil seal at the end of the axle. I ran into this on my non-c D35 in the '86 diesel. There is an inner seal to keep the axle lube out of the axle shaft bearing, and an outer seal as usual that gets put on before you press the bearing on. http://comancheclub.com/topic/34717-what-the-hell-lubes-the-bearings-dana-35-non-c/ Rob

I would clean it up and rock it as is. That is one tough looking truck. It's survived this long intact and in decent shape, don't cut it up or do some goofy engine swap. Get it running good and just enjoy the hell out of it. Rob

Forgot to mention... Ordered that single core Monday, showed up Tuesday, and what do you know... That one is correct. Looks better than the single core Omix to boot. Rob

What about Icons?

Since when are they prone to overheating? Single core has worked fine for the past 17 years... I think it will do just fine again. Rob

Because I don't want them having any of my money at this point. On the other hand, maybe if I order a single they would send me a double? Nah. Probably wouldn't even be the right radiator still. Rob