Duner

That's easily fixed but if you really want a head turner you should build a "Texas Edition comanche" I know "y'all" are all asking what the hell is a Tx edition. You take a long bed comanche remove the bed then cut the back of the cab off extend it back until the 2 door XJ door will fit, now we have an extended cab truck just add a short box and there you have it the truck jeep should have built for us guys over 6' tall and think about all the room for amps and speakers. My dad has been talking about this since he bought the comanche 4 years ago we just need a good candidate long bed for the conversion.

Yes flipping the plates over, notching and swapping sides allows you to run stock shocks ( nice and soft with good articulation) down side is the stamped steel jeep used to make the plates is not the best quality and if modified you will find the weakness quickly. I have now broken the left rear plat twice. We welded it back together and it broke about a 1/4" away from the welded part. My dad is fabricating a new design from 5/16" plate now to replace both. I will post the picks and details for eveyone as soon as we are done this method will require minimal welding and not break, plus this will make eagle feel better that we are not destroying all of those original parts. If it ain't broke, break it then fix it!

If your asking this question then we can be 99.99% sure you have a Dana model 35 axle. We know this because if it had a D44 axle your buddy would have talked you out if already. All kidding aside you can find the D44's under cherokees made between 87-90 with towing packages based on what I have seen in the salvage yards around here most of towing packages have the 44. just walk behind the trucks and look for the receiver hitch then look for the slanted diff cover with the large drain plug.

Are driveshaft shops scarce in other parts of the country? Here in Houston they are numerous and the shop my dad uses was in business when he was a kid. They are extremely reasonable in pricing and can make anything that you want. Plus they can usually get done in about 1 hour. I have now had both the front and rear shafts shortened and rebalanced and painted (AW4 front shaft is longer than the AX15 front shaft) for 45 bucks each while we had lunch around the corner. They build custom shafts starting at 100 bucks depending on what parts you are supplying. Fast Friendly inexpensive service so I have no reason to do it myself. Now on the ranch thats a different story everything on the tractors has been rebuilt and re-engineered at some point mostly by us sometimes from the repair guy in town.

I think the club experience shows with questions like this. First check all of the front suspension components especially the track bar mounts then have a knowledgable shop perform the front end alignment. (I'm not talking about Midas or Sears you need a shop that understands how a lifted vehicle differs from stock, stock settings will not correct the problem on a lifted truck). I have actually learned more from working with the mechanics at the shop my dad uses, and they don't over charge - $39 for a two wheel and $49 for a 4 wheel alignment and they road test the setup and check it again and they won't sell you a lifetime alignment to many pot holes in this city, but they will align your truck even if the parts are worn and then tell you that should replace or repair certain parts in the near future ( I hate those shops that find a worn ball joint and then want you to spend $1000 to rebuild the front end so the guy can set the toe-in).

Eagle, I think the crossreference is the 1034 not the 1054 anyway the 2057 and 1157 are interchangable the 2057 is supposed to be brighter or you can change to the later sockets and use the 3057, 3157, 3357 or 3457 that are becoming much more popular and available around the stores now. I'm always hunting for the 1157's at the bottom of the rack now. Here is a crossrefernce chart if anybody needs it. http://www.imperialinc.com/pdf/D_Vehicl ... eChart.pdf

ok my 2 cents or at least my dad's, First 134 will work in the 12 system for a period of time, this time period could be several days to several years. If converting the system replace all of the o-rings with new 134 compatible types second try to completely vac the system. Also be aware that the fittings on the condenser can be stubborn and result in condensor replacement. Third use a special combo oil that most part stores have as this helps pick up any of the residual mineral oil left in the system and keep it suspended in the freon gas. Fourth if you want to do it correctly you should replace all of the hoses - the r-134 hoses are different from the r-12 hoses as the the r-134 molecules are smaller than r-12 so even though you can pull the required vacuum it will eventually fail, you should always replace the drier anytime you open the system and you will kill the compressor within a matter of time - this by the way is not related to the differences in oil but due to the fact that 134 operates at higher temperature and pressure than 12 - this is also why it does not seem to cool as well at idle also remember that your system will only require about 85% of the capacity as r-12. On the plus side most of us have very original parts in the a/c and were just happy that it blows some cold air so just fill them with 134 till they blow, then you can change hoses, compressor, drier, and condensor and set the system up properly. One last note about a/c compressors is that the new compressors seem to perform better than the rebuilds. Plus the new compressors are toleranced for the 134 gas and the bad news is that 134 with be pulled from the market in the coming years due to the same reasons as 12 so stock up now. My refilled system has been chugging along for two and half years now, it leaks about 1/2 a can of 134 during the course of the year, we try not to disturb the a/c hoses as they look like they could crumble into pieces at any moment.

You could have a grounding issue, if the motor is running ok and there are no signs of over heating I would start checking all of the grounding points on your wires before I remove the guage ,besides cleaning and checking the grounds makes everything else work better.

The best comanche is the one that you already have, you know what the problems are and what you need to fix. Sure the 4.0's are great engines but I wouldn't run out and get another comanche just to get one. I would figure out how to make that 3.8 buick swap because my sisters 99 camaro will smoke the tires off the rims. I wish I had that kind of throttle response in 4.0 don't get me wrong my 4.0 moves but its nothing compared to the 3.8 in her camaro.

Ok, my tired 90 renix is only getting about 15mpg the best it did before the lift and 2wd was 17.7mpg so I don't think my loss was that bad but I'm curious about changing some things on the engine. First has anyone just changed the cam and injectors on the renix motors, the way the computer controls the engine you should see good performance gains and how do you know if your knock sensor or O2 sensor is good or bad I have seen some forum answers where they say just replace every sensor on the renix - they're cheap - but I didn't want to fix something that seems to be working.

Sorry for getting back to this one so late. The #150 spring rate is what Rusty's advertised during my purchase so I don't know exactly what they are. They seem relatively compliant in their movement and the ride is not harsh. The rates for the stock springs were obtained from partsamerica.com on their TRW replacement springs select the year and model of your truck then click on the TRW springs and on the details page they provide the free height, installed height, spring rate and total load compression. I did not check rear spring rates since they do not carry them. I think the 2wd springs are lighter. Where is the best place to get replacement factory leaf spring (4wd)? I need to gain about 1" of rear lift over my current 2wd leaf springs.

My dad wanted to save the fuse block but it already had damage and the PO had some local garage get the signals working for the state inspection and it was a mess (turn siganl/no dash or fuel gauge or vice versa) they had spliced into the wires everywhere to try to get things working - it never pays to shortcut any job - you always have to go back and fix it right.

The CPS for the 92 has a different style connector (round vs flat) anyway try the old clean and grease technique on the existing connector first, they will usually work for a while after that.

There is one other but more expensive way to fix it. Take it to an automotive electrical shop and let them do it. When my dad bought the MJ I wasn't old enough to drive and he was working overseas. In fact we dropped the truck off at the shop on the way to the airport this is where we were enlightened as to some of the XJ/MJ inherent problems: Windshield will leak, leak will drain into fuse block. Cluth master will leak, leak will drain into fuse block. Result many electrical problems sometimes followed by fire. Solution fix fuse block by replacing with new block and splicing all wires in harness followed by replacing windsheild and or master cylinder whichever has the most significant leak at the moment. As a maintenance precaution I now clean all of the fuse block terminals with electrical spray cleaner at least once a year just to make sure everything is ok and no new leaks have developed. Normally my dad would have done this himself but do to the time constraints and needing to have the truck running he took it to friend and it still cost $450 but they also rewired the tailights and the rest of the rear harness that the PO had butchered.

first is everybody's comanche red? seriously 235's will hardly be noticed over the stock tires and if your going to use it in the dirt most of the time you may just want to spool the M35 rearend it's an inexpensive solution with no headaches and it makes a huge differnce offroad. My uncle just spooled his 84 suburban and it no longer gets stuck on our ranch like it used. Last time I got the Sub stuck my dad had to come pull me out with my own MJ (he doesn't let me drive the MJ on the ranch too many thorns and new Dick Cepeck tires).

on my 90 MJ the adjusting nuts are 13mm and yes you should make sure you adjust the shoes in the drum brakes first.

The door install is pretty straight forward, mounts the same just change the the door post latch but my dad was telling me that I would need to power the circuit through a relay. So thanks for providing the diagram now all I need is to go and get a couple nice doors from a 97+ XJ then I will be able to use the drive thru windows without hitting my hand on the non functional vent window.

I have been looking at doing the same thing so I'm eagerly awaiting the wiring diagram as well. Do the windows and door require additional relays? I know my fuse panel has the terminals for everything including the rear window wiper on the cherokee.

You don't neccessarily need the transfer case drop, I have asked that question before and the answer is that the TJ and XJ need the drop to help due to their short wheelbase. I have had no issues with drivetrain vibration front or rear with a 6" lift on my swb MJ.

My rusty's 6.5" are rated at #150, the stock comanche springs are #142 for most and #146 for the eliminator package. My 3.5" tomkens seemed relatively soft as well. I can't imagine what the ride is like when they use the ford f-150 springs which are closer to #250-#275 range I bet they don't compress at all. My dad had 4" lift soft ride leaf springs on his 1978 scout from skyjacker so their reputation of being a little softer might be true.

You don't want a rear axle or front axle to seize, my dad told about a good friend of his who had a pinion bearing seize in a chevy truck on very congested section of I-45 in houston. The resulting accident from the truck's sudden unexpected stop brought the freeway to stop for hours. If its leaking its working if it stops leaking refill it before harm comes to you or someone else. There are three automotive constants, jeeps, harleys and volkswagens mark their spot where ever they go if they're not marking they're not running.

Most likely if its engine oil its from the crankshaft balancer seal your right about wishing you had done it earlier before the pan. Also get the fel-pro kit that has the balancer sleeve if your balancer has grooves worn in it from the seal. I watched my dad do this the first time while the cover was still on the engine its a b*@$£ of a job doing it this way. Then I managed to gall the threads on the crankshaft bolt when I was putting the balancer back on. This upset my dad (he yelled and screamed for the rest of the day about ruining the crank in a perfectly good engine) then he came out the next day and pulled the radiator, moved the ac condensor out of the way along with the bumper, grille and header panel then he removed the welds holding the frame brace and dropped it out of the way so he had complete access to the front of the crank then he patiently removed the bolt without breaking it. Once removed he cleaned up the threads in the crank and realized that it had only galled a small portion of the crank threads then he bought a new crankshaft bolt, rewelded the frame cross member and reassembled the truck. Wallah oil seal fixed and engine did not have to be removed. Once you had the ax-15 out a couple of times you will do just about anything to avoid pulling it again. Also you may be able to just use the balancer sleeve in the kit with your current seal and stop or slow the leak down enough to live with.

Ok the MJ didn't want to start at school this wednesday, so I had to pray to the jeep gods and fiddle with the harness connector before it finally started. Today I finally rolled under the MJ to change it and found the job much easier than I expected it took about 5 min to remove the existing sensor and about 20 min to install the new one, all in all not to bad a job next time I will wait until the engine and tranny cool off a bit more. I don't Know if I should keep the old one as spare though, it works most of the time.

If your talking only about the 4wd conversion and no lift it cost me about $650 with all the transmission, driveshafts, brakes, axle, shifters, linkage, fluids, etc. and two weekends to make the swap. One weekend to remove and clean all the donor parts and another to swap it over to your MJ. But like I said if I do it again I will find a running driving donor XJ for $800 or $900 because of all the extra parts, fenders doors, interior, etc.

:bowdown: 18 on May 5th