Duner

Has anyone thought about using a moroso or summit radiator fill adapter in the upper hose and switching the heater control valve to the later system instead of buying a new radiator. I have seen several solutions to this conversion this just seemed like a less expensive and quicker fix. My closed system has had it's ups and downs but was working great after I put a new 3 row rad and a new pressure tank/cap during the summer, but it started acting up a few weeks ago. It seems like I don't have good flow through the system enen after a system flush. current temp 210 to 215, before problem 190 to 195. should I be looking fro something else. the bottle is not overflowing like it typically would if there was trapped air.

My Dad and I recently did this one. First do you have an automatic or manual? We were not able to get the crank to drop due to the pilot bushing still engaged to the trans mainshaft, ended up having to seperate the trans from the engine about an inch after that no problem. If you have an auto you may be able to unbolt the converter and pry the converter back enough to let the flywheel drop with the crank. Also took the opportunity to replace the timing chain, oil pump seemed like a good preventitive maintenance opportunity if your budget allows.

The bottle jack and block of wood works pretty well when using stock arms or my first set of skyjacker LCA's. I could not believe how easy it was to roll the axle into place with the fully adjustable LCA's/UCA's from Rusty's. What I forgot about was how difficult it is to get the upper control arm bolts out of the body - I don't think jeep wanted us to remove those fortunately man has invent tools that can grind steel.

Welcome to the club. You can find just about anything you need about your truck here. You will also find that there are several ways to do everything. If it works publish your comments and if you find a better solution along the way definitely publish your result.

Timing chain is cheap insurance on any motor with +100k miles besides my 4.0 liter gained 20 to 25 seat of pants horsepower after the change just remember that you must count the links between the marks on the inline 6 engines. We did all of this work because the rear main seal was leaking really bad. so the MJ got a new seal, oil pump, one piece pan gasket and timing chain. End result more power and no more oil leaks, some busted knuckles and bad attitude from having to pull the ax15 out of the pilot bushing to get the upper seal half into the block and a lot more smiles everytime I step on the gas, and this truck was running well before all this or so we thought.

The 305 is a decent choice for the comanche but you have to be sure about how you are going to use the vehicle when your finished. We have a 305 available and already chatted with the advanced adapters people about the swap. 305 chev is not to powerful so the drivetrain will survive for a while. be ready to replace ujoints, driveshafts and trannys on a regular basis and then there is the cost of the conversion kit. It was easy for my dad and I to evaluvate our solution after spending 15 min with the advance adapters guy. 1.) This is my truck and it has to get me around to school and work as well as survive the offroad abuse. 2) This is texas and the vehicle needs a/c 3.) we have enough projects at this moment as my dad has decided that we will enter a jeepspeed vehicle in the baja 1000 in november. Solution will be a stroker crank, camshaft and header combined with the existing easily tuneable renix injection already on my mj. This way everything remains jeep and we don't create any new problems except for rear tire wear. I would really like the sound of the v8 but my dad has conviced me that the daily driver is not the vehicle for that project. So the question is what will your MJ be used for?

I went by the tranny shop after the local car accessories stores failed to supply the correct seal for the output to driveshaft it was close but close only counts in horseshoes and hand gernades according to my dad. Anyway the shop sells a complete kit for the 231 that has all of the seals (Ford, Chevy, Dodge and Jeep) He told me which ones fit the other makes and said I would have to check the fit on the remaining seals for the jeep as they used different sizes depending on the year. The kit was about 25 bucks and now I'm ready for when I have to pull the t-case again I will replace all of the shaft seals.

Replaced the front u-joint on the rear driveshaft about 2 months ago with a precision from oreilly and really fought to get the spring clip to seat. The joint was tight to move afterwards, now two thousand miles later it is begining to fail. I will put a spicer in it over the next week to eliminate this problem. It just seems like the precision part is slightly out of tolerance and its early failure would agree with this ( and before everybody chimes in we took the joint apart to check for needle bearings out of place) it just seems a bit oversize I'm going to check it against the spicer when I take it apart.

My 4.0 litre started doing this with the first cold snap this year. It seems to have improved some now stays around 1100 to 1200 rpm dropping back to normal sometimes. I suspect it is related to a temp sensor that is feeding info back to the injection circuit. Nothing like being stopped in traffic with your engine running 2200 and the clutch throw out bearing squealing as well. Does anybody have the answer to this problem, I don't want to just randomly replace sensors.

6x9's will fit in the rear panels if you space them out from the plastic panel with a 3/4" plywood ring and angle them they fit nicely. I'll try to find the pics they were posted but it has been over a year now so I'm not sure if you can still access them in the forum. If not I'll shoot some more pics this afternoon besides I have upgraded my sub woofer and have not posted any pics of that yet.

I can't comment on the advance auto parts cable but autozone sells a rather shoddy universal fit for the same price. They have one part number I don't know if it fits the long bed or short bed. It was about an inch too short for my short bed so after some mods of extending the cable it worked. It lasted about 6 months before removing the cable end just as the original. Another replacement cable from the auto store, I'm getting really good at installing these things (also contrary to normal part replacement pull the cable from the casing and grease it really good) they do a rather poor job here. Anyway it lasted about 8 months before the cable end came off again. This time my dad got involved pulled the e-brake assembly out of truck broke out the mig and welded a stainless steel cable end to the cable and solved the problem so far. I hope this helps but the replacement cables are not the same quality as the factory and obviously the factory cables have a problem as well. Up until this comanche my dad had never done anything to an e-brake cable except tighten them and we have some 30 plus year cars / one daily driver that gets it's e-brake used almost every day.

Thanks for all the help. I made the CAD conversion Monday it works like a champ and only took 15 minutes might have been ten but the c-clip deformed and it took a couple of minutes to find one the correct size. I'll post some pics of the lift as soon as the ice storm in Houston gives up, but it is comforting to know that my 4wd is available now if I need it.

Save yourself all the headaches take a measurement and have a driveshaft shop lengthen your shaft or build you another. The yards around here are not very careful with the vehicles and always damage the driveshafts. It is rare to find one that is straight. Besides the shop can usually knock it out in an hour or two with new high quality u-joints for $55 to $85 bucks including balancing. It beats scouring the yard and wasting time and money plus they will guarantee their work as well.

Thanks for the CAD tip. I was going to do the cable thing eventually. What is the long term effect of having it locked in 4wd? gas mileage? wear and tear?

Just completed the Rusty's 6" fully adjustable front setup on the 4wd conversion. Earlier skyjacker setup that I found at Pick a Part couldn't handle the 6" lift. Anyway now that I can get the driveshaft in I need to know how the vacuum lines tie into the vacuum source - its been to long since I salvaged all of the lines out of an xj at the junkyard. The transfercase and axle hookups were no problem where do they go after that?

I will put in my two cents. My dad has a good friend that rebuilds engines for a living so here is the scoop. Most low cost short blocks are pretty decent pieces and are warranteed decently where they cut corners is in the cylinder heads they will tighten a worn valve guides intsead of replacing guides and use good seals but these will wear within several 10k to 20k and begin smoking. Moral short blocks are good but check all torque settings before installing and have a trusted machine shop do a proper valve job on the cylinder head. Thats the info straight from someone who makes his living rebuiling engines.

Yes, I prefer the old mechanical style of clutch activation but did not want to get into that swap at this point. I would just like a high quality replacement for this internal hydraulic clutch release bearing. I don't know when auto and bearing manufacturers decided that plastics could out live hardened steel. I have looked at the tilton engineering site but even there parts will require having the tranny out for while taking measurements and adapting to fit. I'm just looking for a simple well made replacement that will last for 4 or 5 years pulling the tranny is not my favorite job on this truck.

Has anybody run across a good replacement clutch release bearing. We replaced the clutch, pressure plate, and bearing with a kit from autozone or O'reilly don't remember about 1-1/2 years ago but now the bearing is starting to go again and the clutch has never had much peddle anyway (before everyone starts on the low peddle - master cly replaced twice, gravity bled, pressure bled, and reverse bled system numerous times, second transmission, and removal for rear seal replacement of the 4.0L) so the system has had numerous fluid changes and bleedings. What I'm looking for is a good quality replacement instead of the cheap junk that came in the kit. I had a similar problem with an S-10 bearing -chevy replaced twice under warranty then I replaced with a quality german made bearing and no more problems ever. So is there a better replacement clutch release bearing out there?

Just completed the 2wd to 4wd and 4" lift to my 90 comanche. We swapped an 89 4.0 cherokee D-30 into the mj and fortunately the new calipers I had on the old 2wd setup match the 4wd axle exactly, but I don't doubt that the late models have had improvement in their brakes. As soon as I complete the soa conversion on the D-44 I'll post new pics. I have read a number of differing stories as to the spring perch measurements between the mj and xj, I can only state that my 90 mj M-35 is 42" center to center and the 89 xj D-44 is 44"

This is one of those thing that i thought would be really cool if some one had pulled off. Can it be done

This is interesting about the d-shaft not fitting as my dad and I just found a d44 in an 87 cherokee yesterday and we are going to pull it today. I already had the d-shaft shortend when I converted from 2wd to 4wd the shaft is still a bit long but I was hoping that after I lift it a bit more that everything would be perfect as we left the shaft about 1/2" long just for that reason. It appears we may have to shorten it again. This is why I love my Comanche so much it is the never ending project fortunately my dad loves customizing cars and trucks and I guess we will just get the axle, finish the lift and spend another $46 at the shop to get the shaft shortened and balanced again.

The X-plods sound great, originally planned to just have the single amp power the 6x9's and the sub but due to some unfortunate accidents (some moron driving about 95 to 100 clipped my brother from behind and spun his mustang out on the freeway) and proprietary engineering by Ford in my brother's Mustang I inherited his amp and the 10" sub I gave him back. End result is now the 6x9's and 4.5's are driven by the big amp and the smaller amp is driving the sub. It sound like a rock concert inside and my mom and dad always no when I home. Now it's time to move on to the lift and the bushwacker flares.

I am 6 3' And they are all the way back with no problems. I am looking for the person who has made one an extened cab model (ie using longer doors from the two door Cherokee) My Dad and i have talked about it.

Most sub do but with the truck cab being so small it acts like the box. and also the sub is hitting aginst the back wall so it creats the same affect as a box.

To start Best buy is no help if the can't stick a big box and it fit perfect and so they say it can't be done. Well we proved them wrong. We did this in twosteps. One weekend we put one amp, the raido, the 6 by 9s in the back and 4 in the front. and then about a mounth later i was not completly satified with it so we put another amp and a ten inch subwolfer. So my dad designed some back supports for the amps and the sub witch we mounted on the back wall and the the rest we wired upand hide the cables. Here is the pic with the seats Here is the pic with out the seats (rightside) Here is the pic with out the seats (leftside)