Duner

I know this thread is a bit old but I thought that I would revive it since my MJ is now suffering the same fate. This is the bearing in the ac support bracket, if you have a 4.0L your fan and fan clutch are bolted to the front of it. The pulley functions as an idler and support for the fan clutch. The part is available from the local jeep dealer for about $276.00. I pulled the bracket off the motor and my dad removed the bearing from the bracket. He said it looked like a water pump bearing. Anyway he has tracked it down and when it arrives we will confirm the fit and function test; if successful I will post the part numbers and pictures. This work does however require a press and some other tools that the basic mechanic may not have but the part is less than $30.00

Your guess about air in the lines is probably correct, based on what you described, as for the shudder this is a sign that the tranny is wearing. Check the fluid levels and add a sysnthetic such as lucas or royal purple they may help the tranny survive a little longer.

Ok i have gone to the junk yard and pulled 98 doors the entire wiring harness from the same car i have laid it all. I have gotten power to the driver switch to just roll up the windows on both sdes but i can not make the power mirror or the locks to work. With this pull i also grabed the over head console that the relay for the lock is in i pluged everything up with the right side kick panel but i don't know how to power the kick panel where all the relays are. i keep hearing the tan wires but i have 3 and powered all of them and still no mirrors no locks. Any help would be greatly appericated and i am under a little time crunch seeing as i want to leave back to college station on saturday afternoon. I would have started this sooner but i have been helping my dad fix my sister camero after a bad curb hit. I have also read the JP mag on this articul and it was not much. If not i would be willing to make a whole new harness but i need some help on the relay lay out and the switches.

I have pulled 2 96 doors and the wiring harness to go with them so i can have power Windows ect from the junk year. In other threads i see people have done this but i just want to find out how they got power to the harness. I have the realy box that is in the right kick panel. The problem i have is the big block that conects to the new xj but i need to know how to power them any help would be great. Thanks

I will probably pop for the rough country set up. Pete I'm sorry that Mich. won't let you guys experiment on your own rigs fortunately many of the other states will or we would not have any of the parts that we have today or at least not be able to use them on the road.

Has anybody out there fabbed their own front control arm drops? Rubicon and now Rough country offer these drops but $190 to $250 is a lot of money for a few pieces of powder coated steel.

Proper gear ratios will make you think you have a v8. Your Comanche will go just about anywhere you want to with lockers. By all means collect every hard to find part off any MJ, I used to just look for taillights - now I look at the entire rear bed. I wished I had not passed on a couple of the those $500 comanches just because they had the 2.5 The cherokee fuel pump and sending unit is not the same as the comanche and will require fabrication to make it work properly no matter what the parts store clerk tells you.

Thanks that was alot of help

I pulled 2 97 jeep xj doors that are all electric for my 90 jeep comanche. I am really tired of pulling up to a drive throught and am fighting againt the vent window to get the food. Also i would love to be able to roll down my pasanger side window with out having to reach across my truck and turn the crank. I am looking for a wire diagram so i can build my own wiring harnes. Most people so far have told me to pull a complete one out of another xj but being a Electrical Major at Texas A&M i am redoing alot of the wiring my self. I have the chiltons book but the way they lay the wiring out is confusing. I do know there was a articul in the JAN2009 JP mag but i did leave this at college station. I also found the other post with a few wiring diagrams but when i tried to print or view them on my computer i could not read the color of the wires. Can anyone help me?? :hmm: :thumbsup:

My 90 MJ has been doing this periodically over the last few months but I'm fairly sure that it's the TPS, I have changed the IAC, and tested the EGR circuit. Does your truck do it all of the time? Some days mine will run fine then the next day it will stall almost everytime the clutch is pushed in when stopping. But I am also starting to get high idle issues sometimes I come to a stop and the idle will be 1200 to 1800 rpm. This is why I'm going to replace the TPS next.

Ditto Eagle, No input from the driver can correct the death wobble, you just grip the wheel, apply the brakes, view you life flashing by as you say a few hail Mary's and when it's over you may have to change your pants. There is probably never one single isolated failure that creates death wobble but a series of worn or failing parts combined with altered front end geometry and larger heavier tires that all contribute to the experience. I was suprised that the poll showed tire balance to be such a large issue, I agree that tires and wheel offset are a great part of the equation. In conclusion to all of this: 4x4's require 2.5 times the maintenance of 2wd vehicles. Now take your maintenance factor and multiply by the amount of lift that you have (2.5x6" lift =15) or basically I check my truck once a month or before any long trips. When it was a 2wd stocker I woukd check it once or twice a year.

Now that i talked to my dad we did change it we work on so many cars round the house that sometime i can"t remember what exactly i did

they seem to be fine i looked it over and nothing seems to be cut or burned ffrayed or anything

The clutch is fine changed about a year ago, the cps was changed within the last year. the fuel filter has not been changed but it did get a new fuel pump in may

It started about a week ago with the truck getting slugish. Not wanting to accerlate. With back fires here and there. But once it starts going it is fine. It is mainly first gear wanting to stall when i am comming off the clutch and then accerlating fine. We replaced the oxgen sencor about 5-6 thousand miles ago. Along with the plugs. So any help will be great thanks It is a 90 4.0 with an ax15 4x4

I tried to utilize the stock spring plates slightly modified eventually they failed and replaced them with the 1/2" thick plates. Anyway there are a number of solutions in this tech question. search this topic on the tech forum: SOA ????'s

You have fallen into the XJ - MJ trap. The parts manufacturers think that all of the parts interchange directly between the cherokee and comanche but as we know here from experience it is steering wheel forward, after that most of the parts are unique. The bowl or pan in the tank is to prevent fuel from starving the pickup tube on the fuel pump when conerning or climbing hills. Second the unit you bought is for a cherokee (it is the only unit that I can find anywhere for the 4.0litre engine) It will not properly fit the comanche tank. I completely dissected my new cherokee unit and reengineered everything to fit the old comanche pump assembly. If your sending unit works just buy the pump seperately, if your like me and need a new sending unit it requires some careful demolition and rewelding to adapt the unit to your needs. Float is on the wrong side, fuelpump pickup is pointed the wrong way, and after I relocated everything I had to lengthen all of the wires. I should have taken pictures of the project but I was just trying to get the truck up and running for school the next day.

I posed this question a couple of weeks ago about the: AIRTEX Part # E7091S (this pump is sold by every auto store and rockauto is the cheapest source if you have time) This assembly does not fit my 1990 short box comanche pioneer - it sorta fits after you relocate the filter to the other side and fool with the sending unit and bend the arm to better angle the rubber isolater into the hole in the tank. I'll stand by my experience with this pump - it is a cherokee assembly and does not properly fit the comanche tank. I will be pulling my airtex out this weekend and returning it to autozone and getting them to replace it because the sending unit gave up already. I will then disect the new assembly and retrofit it to my original comanche bracket assemby and hopefully all will be well. So if your sending unit works just replace the pump and filter sock and retain your original assembly.

I thought the factory used that big flat spot on the down pipe to create the required backpressure. I can't see that it is there for any other reason, front drive shaft does not seem to be anywhere close to the pipe lifted or not lifted. Or maybe someone ran mine over at the factory before they installed it. For the record I have an after market converter, (no change in mileage) then 2 years later 2.5" pipe from converter to flowmaster 40 series and 2.5" out the back like the factory and I have great sound and improved mileage.

From the horses mouth: we talked directly with the Advance adapters tech at the offroad show. A mildly built 350 will eventually destroy the ax-15 and other drivetrain parts, a performance built engine would kill it in a short time. The only way to truly enjoy the engine swap was by including the tranny and axle swap. At this point I would have a chevrolet instead of the jeep so my DAD has finally convinced me that to keep all of parts as a jeep is a far better choice. Stroker motors are the answer - its simple, the renix injection is flexible enough to handle he changes and everything under the hood remains the same. So stroke it.

Again so everyone understands: Conventional oil relies on parafins (parafin wax) to provide lubrication (slipperyness) the side effect is sludgey burnt wax buildup in the engine over time - not to bad if you religously change oil and filter every 3k or sooner. Synthetics do not use any organic compounds to make them slippery so they do not build up sludge but the are really good at removing any deposits in your existing high mileage engine especially around the seals. If your engine is in good condition with low miles it should not effect anything. Otherwise if you want the benefits of synthetic with out the issues on the 160k mile engine just add 1 quart of royal purple at every oil change. I can not vouch for all synthetics but royal purple is designed to blend fully with convential oil. Does anyone have a solution for the leaking valve cover seal or do I just continue to replace evey two years as a maintenance item?

it has to do with twist versus length. The 2wd shaft is longer and prone to twist that is why its diameter is so large. On the 4wd comanches most of cherokees and all of the wranglers, jeep was able to use the small diameter shafts.

does anyone know where to get a fuel pump/sending unit assembly for the comanche? The local parts stores are always pushing the cherokee pump, but the mounting bracket and sending unit and filter are oriented differently. Is Mopar the only place to get the real assembly for a 1990 model 4.0 comanche?

This is not a jeep question and I hope nobody gets mad. I'm looking for a ford expert to help with distributor installation timing question on a 96 Bronco with a 302. If you have any expertise with these ford engines please email my dad directly at garyweikel@yahoo.com the Bronco sites have failed to provide any real solid info and I figured as knowledgable as the jeep crowd is here there are probably a couple of ford experts in the group. Thanks in advance.

my truck came to me with 31" liberators (walmart) they would rub a little when turning sharp but the rear tires rubbed the inside fenders of the bed any time the suspension articulated entering or exiting driveways. I suggest spacers for the rear if your going to run stock jeep wheels. you might want to grab a later set of wheels from a jeep in 16" or 17" diameter as I think the metric tires 265/70/16 will give you a more narrow 31" tire and help with the rubbing issue. Or you can just end up like the rest of us who don't know when to stop with your comanche 6 to 8 inches above stock telling ourselves everytime that we get in that the heavy steel bumpers were going to buy will make the springs sag a bit and someday I will custom build some rock sliders with a step.