Rockfrog

pop the hose off, trim accordingly for new location, rehook Vacuum hoses, start motor. Done. It's a vaccum canister with a check valve in the vaccum line, it simply stores a vaccum that the engine itself creates.

The distributor doesn't have oil running through it, it's running under it lubricating where the drive gear meshes with the cam. The Oil Filter adapter has three o-rings inside it, when they go it's a major leak point. the Oil pressure sender is just to the left of the Oil Filter adapter. and just because the PO changed the VC doesn't mean it may not be leaking .... usually it leaks from the back as the back three bolts have loosened (or may have been missed during install, especially the last one closest to the firewall ... the one you have to feel for to find. If you don't see a blue rubber gasket under the Valve cover ... it's probably leaking ... the 4.0 is notorious for VC leaks, especially the earlier years. Get some engine cleaner, clean the motor, especially the passenger side, then check it after each trip and guaranteed the leak will show it's origin after the first two trips

:doh: then why even ask about how to attach a shackle to a receiver? Redwolf

i didn't see where it said front mount, but again, how do i tell the difference, i plan on headin out to the junkyard this weekend and lookin for one, so what kinda mountin "style" am i lookin for and what could i pull a receiver off of that fits a MJ? Redwolf when you click your link ... it's right there in big bold blue letters ... on the right of the picture of the receiver. FRONT MOUNT RECEIVER ... also says in the descrition, the catalog header, the item details, not sure how one can miss that.

you looking for a front or rear receiver ... the one you posted is for the front.

with one of these - Same one I use ... FYI that's a 3/4" shackle it is supplied with ;) :thumbsup:

The shackle he picture is a 1 1/2" shackle ... which means the PIN is 1 1/2" diameter ... it is rated to 17T working load so 34,000lbs. Shackles are industry rated with a 5x safety factor ... (so the shackle in question should have an 85T failure strength). I have been using 3/4" shackles for years ... that's 3/4" pin shackles. I would however suggest buying a shackle made in the USA or Canada ... avoid the China stamped shackle as they are not held to industry standards

I've just spit on the thing before, and then rub it with my thumb until I could read the numbers. WD40 is just a more ... civilized method?

if it's the white plastic tabs I'm thinking it is ... it should just be a squeeze the tabs together and pull affair.

85w140 will be fine in the rear axle, as will 80w90, or even 75w90. the difference? the 85w140 is slightly thicker cold, and the same hot. that is just the part number for the diff cover, nothing to do with gear ratio. now that you've posted a picture ... go look at your axle again. See that little metal flap on the upper lefthand bolt? spray that with WD40 and get yer fingers dirty, rub it in and clear the rust and grime ... some numbers and letters will appear. Post those and we can tell you the gear ratio.

IAT - located behind the throttle body in my picture, has two black wires coming from it and looks like a pipe plug in the manifold. MAP - located on the firewall just above the manifold, has the green plug going to it and a vacuum line (you just replaced part of it's vacuum line) ECT - located on the lower drivers side of the block, just below the exhaust manifold. EGR - is actually a series of parts ... EGR solenoid, EGR transducer, EGR valve and the associated vacuum hosing. I don't really see this one affecting mileage as much as the others. here's a good site with pictures of locations and how to test. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm between this and cruiser54's info you should be set.

I put mine here ... upper left in the picture. Also replaced my MAP and Fuel pressure regulator Vacuum lines with Brake line (still the leaking plastic in the pictures), fit the end fittings much more securely and won't crack or melt in my lifetime. Have you tried cleanning the IAT (Inlet Air Temp sensor)? checked the ECU's coolant temp sensor (lower driver side of manifold)? MAP? And as mentioned the O2 sensor. How is you're EGR system functioning? Mine was fubar so it was deleted (which also happens to be the bulk of the vacuum harness). Last trip was a 21mpg avg over 500km's Yes, I still need to replumb the EVAP cannister as well

So I've beena background CC viewer for some time now, decided to jion the fold as it were. I own an 88 5spd 4.0 2wd MJ and a '00 AW4 4.0 4dr 4x4 XJ. Been a jeep nut for a few and it's all tha fills my driveway more or less (wife drives a turdy 08 JKU Sahara). The XJ was the DD until i got the MJ a few months ago and now it's my DD and the XJ is the fun toy (~6" long arm, hp30, 4.56, dertroit and true trac, yada, yada). So now I've found my time taken by my ailing MJ as the PO's were less than stellar at repair and maint. Swapped the cooling system out when I got it with the leftovers from my XJ, deleted the NFG EGR system, replaced the cracked vacuum lines with brake line, used a whole can of yellow top just to make the inside of the valve cover look like it had 211,000kms on it, it was that caked. But she runs OK and shifts fine. It used to have an intermittent high idle issue but it slowly has been going away after a TB cleaning so I figure it was just the IAC sticking from sitting so long. The first oil changed was a night mare resulting in pulling all the tricks out to get the filter off strap wrench crumpled it, plastic wrench stripped and the old screwdriver through it just tore more (ripped in half and had to use two allen keys in the inlets at the base with a crescent wrench and a screwdriver to twist the base off ... and that took all my strength to twist). A dual (XJ/MJ) build thread is ongoing here - http://www.bcjeepclub.ca/index.php?topic=27321.0 Plans for the MJ include a set ot ZJ (D30/35 3.73 lsd) axles and a NP242 when i can find a cheap 4wd BA10 (yeah I'm not so smart there but they are cheap, and I can swap then easily enough). It'll be the DD and winter truck since I drive 250km to work and back again each week (500km round trip on a twisty mountain highway) SOooOO ... my current issues are the dash wiring ... The beginning ... I replaced a couple gauges in my dash with some US versions .... OK easy enough. Toss the panel back in ... nothing gauges all dead, but it lights. pull panel check plugs, all good, pull wiggle reinsert, plop er back in. Works. Add a few screws, still works replace dash bezel still works. replace radio, now dash clock and radio are dead. check fuse block, eewwe, wiggle, scrape ... now dash is dead again. Pull emissions timer since I was down there and it was annoying me ... futz with fuses and prying terminal back together ... dash works, but radio and dash clock are still dead. the next day ... So did some testing ... it's a wire in the radio harness ... red with gold tracer ... apparently also feeds the clock. it has only ~5V to it so there isn't enough to feed the radio, and not enough to keep the clock on with the radio hooked up. I'm going to replace all the fuses with new ones as well just to help things as much as I can. Looks like the best route is to run a dedicated power wire for now. The PO's radio install was a butcher job at best, pure massacre by my standards and I suck at wiring. and a day later ... looks like it's the ETR circuit (clock and radio only) a red/Tan wire. Hoping swapping the fuses will help but that fuse block is pretty crusty. I have gauges, clock but no radio right now. Guess I'll have to live with it until I return from work. followed by ... Just keeps getting better ... Replaced all fuses, still only getting 5v to radio. Plenty for the clock, not near enough for the radio. Found the tail end of the cut stock antenna lead. And the other end of a craptastic aftermarket replacment that emds in a broken end at the box. Guess that explains why the radio bit never got reception. Also while heading up island to work the wipers decide to stop working ... In a rain storm ... Yay. Turns out the circuit breaker was a little rusted out and snapped a leg off. Had to mickey duck a not so "universal" jobby in there till I get home next week. Yeah, that's really a marret in there ... WTF? There are more in the rear trailer harness spaghetti to fix as well ... I mean really?!? All from this (SAE temp and oil pressure on cdn metric panel). \ Soo at this point I've purchased a 88 XJ dash harnes complete and will prep that one when it gets here ... any suggestions for the current mess? Thanks