Virginia

No and honestly, it's been a while since I've changed the filter. I just keep adding because I'm losing about a quart every 2 weeks or so from blow by. I'll take it in and have it changed.

That sounds complicated. I've never done it.

What brand of oil filter are you using? Whatever the Valvoline oil change place put in. Not sure.

And then?

It's that knocking sound when I accelerate. I call it lifter rattle. Not sure what it really is. It gets faster as the engine revs but stops when I'm sitting still. The oil is good. The pressure is good. Oil pressure is about 40 at 65mph. I ideas?

Thanks Harley.

Must be. I'll limp along with it like it is and see if I can figure out another way to keep it in place. There's also a piece of what looks like some sort of spring that one end broke off up. A spring that looks like it's there to make something pop back up into place. I didn't feel like taking the other door apart to look at that side. I guess if I need to at some point I can go to the junk yard and find another handle.

It's OK. I got it fixed. I had to take the door handle off. It's held on my two nuts which are accessable from a hold on the end of the door and a hole on the inside panel. the end of the rod that works the latch is bent at a 90 degree angle and I was able to just push that back through the hole it popped out of. There's a piece of plastic that sort of hangs down and I'm guessing that some sort of guide but not sure. I hope I got that right. The handle button works now so I'm not going to worry about it but I am curious about what made it pop off in the first place.

I heard something snap when I pushed in the button to open the driver's door and now the button won't work the mechanism. Does anybody know how to fix this. And how in the bloody hell do you get to it? I've taken the door panel off but can't figure out how to get it off. Should I just look for a new door because the lock was popped out and the metal around it bent so it won't hold a lock now.

OK. I'll try it this weekend.

That's just great. This could get expensive because I've never changed out any of these parts. I have no idea if I even have the tools to do it. Does it take anything special? SHould I leave this to a pro?

I just had the wheels balanced, rotated and aligned. Would the steering wheel being out of whack cause it? I'm thinking not because before the alignment the wobble was worse and the steering wheel was positioned correctly. Is it possible they didn't tighten something enough or get the camber right.

I'm having some death wobble problems. It's only after I hit a bump and if I let go of the steering wheel and let it go to the right it stops. I took it sunday for a balance, rotate and alignment. The wobble didn't happen on the way home or to work this morning but on the way home form work, I hit a bump and there it was. Not nearly as bad as it had been but it was there. Also, after the alignment, my steering wheel is off 45 degrees. I'll take that back and have it fixed. What else should I tell them to look at while it's up there?

I'll reattach a tube to the air filter box then. I was smelling a little bit of exhaust.

I've put one in and have a question. Right now, the hose comes from the top front of the valve cover to the can but not from the can to the air filter box. Does it need to?

Have any of you seen or done this to fix a flat? http://vimeo.com/6642680

I didn't notice this until I took the carpet out. When it rains heavily I have a leak under the dashboard and depending on which way the truck may be leaning determines which side the water will leak on. Mostly, it's the passenger side but every once in a while it's the driver's side. I've seen it run down the front of the foot well about 4 inches from the outside panel. I'm suspicious that the new windshield wasn't sealed well. I say new, it was replaced about 3 years ago. No idea how long it's been leaking because of the carpet. What are the normal things to check for that sort of leak?

I went with the recommendation in the repair manual. The stuff on the plugs appears to be normal wear but lots of it. I'm sure the plugs should have been changed long ago. My mileage seems better. It's not missing anymore. No rattle on acceleration and the temp in running normal now. Go figure.

OK

I've found a '90 manual on ebay. Is there much difference between the 90 and 91?

I'll look for the CD

Any preferences?

I can't find any evidence of where it went. I've seen no leakage. I added about a gallon of water to it. I also changed the plugs which was way over due. Right after that, my oil pressure was back where it should be and the temp gauge register exactly where it should. I have no idea if those are connected but it sure seems to be doing fine now. Changing the plugs stopped the missing that I was feeling also.

I put the new plugs on and that took care of the missing. The old plugs are just BAD. A yellowish-white hard buildup on them and almost none of the metal electrode post left. I'm surprised it ran at all. I've been looking for pictures to show me what might have caused what I had and I can't find any. My haynes manual got flooded when my truck flooded and I haven't replaced it. Anybody have pictures of different fouled plugs and an explanation of what causes it?

Got the copper. Thanks