87Warrior

I am working on getting parts gathered to get my new 87 2.5L on the road, but I have a few questions. The truck needs a new clutch so I have ordered a Luk clutch kit. The transmission has been out of the truck for some time and the flywheel has a fair amount of surface rust on it. Can the 2.5 flywheel be resurfaced? I know this is a no-no for the 4.0. If the flywheel passes the straight edge inspection, should I simply clean up the surface with Emory cloth and go on my way? With the flywheel out the rear main is easily accessible. What is the best seal to buy for replacement? Should I opt for a one piece seal versus the typical 2 piece rear main seals since I will have full access around the crank? Is it possible to upgrade the 2.5L dual V-belt set up to run on a serpentine belt? Is it even worth fussing with? I have found very little information about this on the web. The only advice I have found was in regards to the water pump being reverse direction or not. I have a 4.0L with all belt accessories still in place to pull the pulleys and accessories from if it would be useful. Thanks, Brett

Anybody up for some wheeling? Server 1, Wild West

:doh: Whoops. I was thinking about those gear/tire size/speedometer tooth charts.

You shouldn't bother your self running gear calculators at all, unless you are trying to figure out what what speedometer gear to run. I think you would be happy with 4.10s and 31's. Stock for stock, I enjoyed driving my TJ Rubi (5spd) in the mountains much more than our XJ (auto). The Rubi had 4.10s and 30's and was heard just about perfect for the mountains while the XJ with 3.55's was constantly down shifting to try and find the "sweet spot". I know it is hard to draw parallels between the 5spd and auto, but the 4.0 has its powerband which is actually quite good once you are in there. You should not be afraid to let your engine tach up and use the power it can make, it is good for them.

Not now. I had to stop when my wife started using bandwidth :ack: Our 4G internet connection can only handle so much. Check this thread tomorrow evening. I bet somebody will be playing :thumbsup:

You've got to give it another try. Be sure to do the "full" install with extra rigs, terrain and multi-player set up. Give it another go. Heck, Rob had to remind me of a few of the controls and I had played it quite a bit in the past. :typing:

Clutch kit has been ordered and in on the way. This includes: Clutch, Pressure Plate, Throw-out Bearing, Pilot bearing and Slave. Ordered on Monday... Arrived on Wednesday:

Rob tried to steal my CJ! :thwak: Next time should go a bit smoother, now that I have got some of the multi-player kinks worked out.

The version I had installed was way out of date, so I am currently running the update. I am ready to wheel.

How does the multiplayer work? How many can join in a session? Could be fun to get a CC group wheeling.

On Saturday, 12/3/11, I drove to Iowa to check out a spare truck 'Rokhound' had for sale...... .....and ended up dragging it home: 1986 Longbed 2.5L/AX5/207 D30/35 It is rusty, it is crusty, it doesn't run and it is exactly what I wanted. I plan on using this truck as a daily-driver/winter beater and farm hauler. The immediate plan - Order Luk clutch kit from Carolina Clutch and replace the clutch - Install transmission and transfercase - Replace motor mounts and transmission mount - Replace control arms/bushings with lightly used TJ arms - Replace shocks with lightly used Monroes from my '92 - Use stock aluminum wheels from my '92 with the 30" tires from my 99 XJ donor - Rebuild my '92 bench seat with headrests and install - Pull and replace or clean the carpet - Patch floor boards - Install 'Fey' rear bumper The 'later-on' plan - Replace TRE's and Tie-Rod with V8 ZJ - Upgrade to V8 ZJ Progressive rate front coil springs - Upgrade trackbar to used RE1600 with TRE at frame mount - Upgrade to Hell Creek MT or AAL rear leaf springs Once she is running good and strong, I will lightly media blast the rusted areas and treat with POR15 left over from my '92 build to stop the rust. 2.5L TBI - I have some learning to do here The frame is surprisingly very solid Interior... with 3/4 cluster! Parts in the bed Tucked in the barn awaiting some much deserved attention

Still have it installed! But like you said, it has been a while since I have played the....game?

Its a 91 with very few miles...er kms... for a darn good price.

Wow, the Chevy flares look like a very good alternative for anybody wanting to open up the wheel archs.

Order and Payment time is officially over. I will be submitting the final orders to the print shop tomorrow, 12/1. I will keep the club updated on the order progress in this thread :typing: Thanks all. We had 45 green logo shirts and 47 tan logo shirts ordered. I had much more demand than I thought I would. I am glad to help get the ComancheClub name out there. Brett

I had one of the Power Wheel CJ's when I was little. Lots of good memories, some of them painful. That 'toy/vehicle' gave me stitches one morning before church. Oh the days :cheers: My TJ Wrangler is my daily driver when I am not commuting with the company Ranger. Had to put the top on it last weekend, highs in the 30's did me in. Here it is a couple of weeks ago touring around a lake: She purrs down the highway at 75mph with no problem. The last big drive I did was to Taylor Park, CO, about 10 hours from here in August.

how are these? does anybody here have one? The guy who built H3RESCUE's rig had one installed. Maybe he would have some insight. I have not bought one as my slider is still good.

I am not familiar with any stock adaptations that will work. You can buy a new slider from CR Laurence.... http://www.amazon.com/C-R-LAURENCE-Duo- ... B004ARJXUM

$20 to ship it!?!? That is a little crazy in its self.

Check your tail lamp grounds. The fuel pump grounds in the same location, behind the housing.

I didn't buy a darn thing. I browsed all of the 4x4/Jeep websites I could think of but found no stellar deals that I couldn't find year round by shopping around. I was really hoping some MJ sliders would have been discounted, but no such luck.

It's always nice when you are able to solve those mystery noises. Today after a group meeting for work we were standing near one of my coworkers trucks and noticed the exact same issue with the front bed panel of his 2011 GMC Canyon. In this case a spot weld was broken.

Good luck finding premade hoses locally. Dealer and an aftermarket company through quardratec are the only places I have been able to find them. The coolant is purely up to you, but Jeep has never used an 'Orange' coolant. Generally that is the GM DexCool which is an organic coolant, OAT, which contains no silica. Jeep uses a pink coolant. It is an extended life hybrid organic coolant, HOAT, which is a hybrid of basic coolant (green) and organic coolant with minimal silica content. Never, ever, mix the the coolants. I run the extended drain HOAT, Zerex GO5 from Napa. It is a clear/yellow color. But really, after a few good flushings and draining the block, you can run whatever coolant you want, just stay consistent.

Dear lord... I had great luck installing 4 ball joints on my TJ using a Harbor Freight ball joint press to remove and install. I used Moog Ball joints from Advance Auto. The latest discussions on various Jeep Forums lead me to believe Spicer ball joints are the way to go as they are what came from the factory.

I have sent a PM to those of you I have not received payment from. If you did not get recent a PM from me, I have received your payment and your order is ready to go to the printer :thumbsup: Payment deadline is this Wednesday, 11/30. Now only accepting paypal.