87Warrior

:jump: That made my day, Jim! :rotfl2:

My body shop guy was none to pleased with any of the C2C stuff. The only good he had about the C2C pans and rockers was in regards to the metal quality. He was particularly peeved that the rocker did not taper as the stock one did, these are just straight. A C2C rocker, in the works:

Yeah a hat would be sweet.... Wish I could have gotten that done last time...... I'd be down for another t-shirt or two. Black shirt, tan logo. Those looked the best out of everyone I packed up. Dark blue and tan were also sweet. To whoever has stepped up to the plate this time. Thank you and good luck :waving:

Probably. I will say that I would pick it up if somebody wants it and doesn't want to trust a CL seller to ship. I am headed east this Saturday and could puck it up around 10am.

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/3009004173.html I know some of you hoarders would like this.

I have always wanted to do that. Could be fun.....

Built in '06. No windows, but two side doors as well as two garage doors. It's not insulated yet, but will be once I can get my 86 on the road.

I was able to re-finish the stock fuel tank and get it installed with new tank straps. Of course, once I got it installed and dumped 5 gallons of fuel in there it decided to leak. Leak is coming from the bottom half of the tank behind a strap. Guess the rust was too much. At least I didn't buy anything for it. Time to buy a new tank. I also got the bell housing test fitted with the bolts I bought. Fit like a glove. Apparently I need to figure out what size bolts hold the CPS in place as now have two zip-ties holding it in place. And the good news. I turned the key on and off several times to let the fuel pump get gas to the motor. This little 2.5 hasn't been run since 2004 and I was expecting the worst. Instead, this is what happened: Yeah buddy! Even with an open header it was running darned smooth.

Rescued Halloween of 09: Image Not Found Image Not Found Current: Image Not Found We don't really know his age or the first part of his life story, but I do know we picked him up from the side of the road nearly dead and nobody claimed him. All I know is he has been the most loyal dog I have ever had and loves to cruise around town in my TJ with no top or doors.

I was pumped to watch as well, but missed it due to work :fs2: Maybe there is a YouTube video I can see...

Window AC would be nice, but I would need a window. Plus, I am usually using some harsh chemicals in the garage and need the fresh air flow. Which route are you going? I almost bought two from the link Harley provided this evening, but didn't know which style I would like to have.

Sounds like you have a good direction in mind. Glad to see another fan of the Vanco brakes. I would recommend you strip the truck then do the rust repairs. You will be amazed how much rust will appear once you really get at it. Plus it will make the repairs easier and more complete.

Great job! It is so nice I would be afraid to leave it at the campsite all day in fear that somebody would help them selves to an awesome comansion.

Fantastic! Thanks guys. That is exactly what I am after. I don't know what I was trying to Google, but I couldn't fund any of that!

6k-10k depending on location and the person buying.

The heat of summer has set in, meaning I will do 95% of my wrenching at sunset or dark, when the temperatures are bearable. Naturally both garage doors and the side door will be opened to let the garage air out and, if I am lucky, catch a draft from the cross breeze. This whole scenario is a giant bug light. Within a 1/2 hour of opening the garage doors, the bug density is so high that you will breathe in a number of the pesky flying things. I would like to find something that can be used to keep the bugs at bay and outside. I think some sort of fabric screen in the garage door openings would be awesome. You know, like those pop up tents that have a bug net all around sides. But, does anybody make such a thing for garage door openings? I am not opposed to making a screen, but I'm not even sure where to start. Thoughts, comments, ideas?

I think I have the right bolts. After a few very frustrating trips to the hardware store, I gave up and went to order the bolts online. This search sent me to a parts catalogue, which had bolt sizes for the 2.5 and 4.0. I took the list to Napa and came home with the following: Sarter - (2) 3/8-16x4" Bell housing to block - (2) M12x1.75x45 - (2) M12x1.75x50 - (2) M12x1.75x90 - (2) M 8 (unknown, I believe these hold the bottom of the clutch inspection plate) - (4) M12x1.75 nuts - (2) M 8 nuts

The battery hold down was $6. http://www.orschelnfarmhome.com/rubber- ... 40399/cl1/

Not much has happened to this poor truck since the last update. This is primarily due to the fact that my wife and I bought a house and I started a new job. ....but alas, I am back at it with a goal of one month to get it driving. Yep, that is right. This will be a push through June. Now that she sits in a garage, attached to the house, I think it may happen. My first order of business was to get the fuel system squared away. So I dropped the tank, replaced the pump and strainer then tested the sender. I also replaced the fuel filter and all rubber hose and bought new fuel tank straps. At this moment I am saving the stock fuel tank. It was rusty, but I did not find any holes. It is 1/2 finished. Since the truck was somebody else's project (or problem) I keep finding out I obviously did not get all of the nuts and bolts that were removed. It was missing the starter bolts and bell housing bolts. Finding the bolt sizes for these are just about impossible. Here is a reference list of the bolts I purchased. Starter - (2) 3/8-16x4" Bell housing to block - (2) M12x1.75x45 - (2) M12x1.75x50 - (2) M12x1.75x90 - (2) M 8 (unknown) I ordered, received and installed a starter from Advance Auto with a lifetime warranty. I also checked and.changed the oil and installed new Champion spark plus. I inspected the piston tops and cylinder walls to the best of my ability. It was then time to address the battery hold down on this truck (and the worn out battery from 2004). A rubber bungee cord is the only thing keeping the lead brick in place. I obtained a good used battery from my father who needlessly replaced the battery in his Silverado. Used a generic battery hold down I found at the local farm supply store. I think it will work just perfect. Now with a good battery I could, for the first time, test some of the trucks electronic systems: Door buzzer - Good and annoying Radio - Good Horn - Good Blinkers - Good Headlights - Good Tail lights - Fair, blinker bulb lights up on passenger side when tails are on. Probable ground issue Gauge Fuel pump - Good Sending unit - Good gauge responded to float movement Then curiosity got the best of me. Even though the fuel system is not finished, I wanted to hear the 2.5 turn over. lQ4ZRsDPZMg It's a small achievement. I hope to hear it run this week. Once I hear it run this week, I will pull the clutch and flywheel to replace the rear main and oil pan gaskets. Then in goes the new clutch, the transmission/tcase and new motor mounts. :banana:

:agree: Just about any Toyota, with the exception of a Supra, will work good as a DD. Lame 4cyl with little power and no true aftermarket following. I look at my wifes 02 Camry with 170k miles and at my 86 MJ with 165k miles. I wouldn't hesitate to drive the Camry across the country tonight. The MJ needs a lot of work for such an adventure and the Camry is 99% factory...(only belt, fluid, battery, tires and alternator have been replaced). While I hate what Toyota has done to the image/perception of what a vehicle is, they make solid cars.

I avoid HD. I would be going to a local hardware store which has an expansive nuts n bolts section. It's been about 10 years since I have installed or removed a Jeep transmission. Please excuse my ignorance. Now that you mention it, I do recall mounting bell to block. I reviewed the FSM and it was not real helpful at jogging my memory. Please do. It is much appreciated.

I am getting close to installing the transmission/T-case in the 86. Since I bought this truck in pieces, I am trying to make sure I have everything on hand before completing the install. I need the bolts that attach the motor and bell housing. I do not have them. Does anybody know the size/pitch/length/quantity of the needed bolts? Is there a place I can buy them new or used? Or do I need to take the bell housing to the hardware store and start fitting bolts to it? Thanks for the help.

Should fit just fine if it was manufactured correctly. Pretty good price for the set up.

JKS makes some great products, but I think there are slightly better options out there for about the same price for somebody who will put a demand on the control arms. Rokmen and Currie come to mind.

I have had 8 JKS arms on my TJ since 05. JKS has made a few slight changes in their arms over the years, but the same basic design has remained unchanged. I bought new arms for my MJ and they were almost identical to the original arms I purchased years ago. You will not notice any change in the handling characteristics of your truck with only changing to JKS. Why are you looking at JKS if you already run Rustys on the lowers? JKS allows the arm to pivot while most manufactures have a joint at the axle, frame, or both ends of the arm where the pivot occurs.