87Warrior

Here is a comparison I did tonight after getting the HID set up installed. 1986 Jeep Comanche, IPF housings and 55w HID inserts: 2003 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, IPF Housings and Fatboy bulbs: I need to spend some time adjusting the lights on the MJ. I believe that with a think o-ring or shim to pull the HID bulb back in the housing more the light pattern will improve. I have been running these Fatboy bulbs in the TJ since 2008. They are great. Coupled with the IPF housing I can see into the ditches no problem on the county road to our house.

Correct. There is no reason to since you would essentially be doing the same thing twice. I have never done the headlight harness mod to an XJ or MJ, so I am unable to comment on how much of a change there is. I suspect the HID will produce more light than an upgraded H4. The question then is of that light is useable or if it will ne thrown away by the housing. I don't know enough about light theory to have that discussion. The plus to doing a harness upgrade is you get to source the parts and can pick.quality plugs and relays if desired. With HID, you are stuck with what ever Chinese manufacture cranked out the kit.

If you already have a non stock lighting harness in your truck, installing HIDs will not benefit from the harness as H4s will. This is because any H4 to HID retrofit kit draws its power for the ballast from the battery and uses the factory wiring as a trigger, just as the aftermarket harness would do. I will be installing an IPF/HID set up in the 86 this weekend to alleviate the electrical strain on the light switch. I will take comparison pictures between the IPF/HID MJ and my TJ with IPF/H4 Fatboy.

Very nice Jim, very nice.

Keep a close eye on the seam on the UUCA. Ive run JKS since 05 and had a failure on my TJ. Hey, 8 years of service is very good. And JKS replaced the arm! The JKS replaced the RE stuff that was sloppy every 3 months. I didn't know CC got a kick back when ordering from Rob. Might have to give him a call..... :jump: Woot

The ACOS wouldn't be very user friendly for what he is try to accomplish. I believe AirLift makes a kit for the XJ front end.... http://www.strutmasters.com/XJ-Cherokee ... 2-jxjc.htm May be better vendors out there, this was the first in Google. I really want a set of bags for the back of my TJ.

I got mine from the dealer back in '03. 100k miles later its still going strong. I would check any of the Dodge/Jeep/Chrysler/Mopar parts dealers online first. They usually have significant discounts over the dealership. I have no idea if they are still made for a Jeep that old. You will just have to search for one.

Drive down to KS and you can have your pick of either of my two extra bench seats. I imagine you could easily find a bench near you for dirt cheap. Even if it is in shambles, the floor bracketry is what you need and the hard part is done. Another option is to find a 97+ XJ and get the seats, brackets and cut the floor brace out of the floor and install in your truck. Lastly, you can flip a bucket upside down and sit on it (hardly functional and uncomfortable).

Mike, thanks for the complement. It was great to actually drive an MJ for the first time in 2 years, even if it was just up and down the road. I fought with an exhaust clamp/splice all night last night. When ever the transmission was pulled, they cut the down pipe right before the cat. I did my best to splice it together so I can stand to drive it to the muffler shop. I also noticed the cat was gutted out. This evening I worked with the interior, I hate doing interior work. I pulled the seats and console then started fitting the 99 XJ agate carpet in the cab. Since I decided to be creative and push the seat as far back as possible, this resulted in the XJ seat braces to be installed further back than stock and then not allowing the carpet to fit right or where it is supposed to. Once I got the carpet fitted and trimmed down to size I mounted the lower rocker trim pieces, installed the inner shifter boot and got one B-pillar light to kick on :rotfl2: You can can also see my center console mount. I really need to source some new seatbelts. In the meantime, I will affix the stock bench belt/buckle to the stiff 99 XJ support bracket so they don't fall down next to the console all the time.

Mopar, OEM :thumbsup:

A few month after the movie Twister came out, I went out to the garage to work on my ATV. I always walked through the back door, past the recyclables and other odds and ends. I noticed the huge trash sacks of crushed cans were missing. Then I looked down at the large, square aluminum fish feeder my father had brought home from the farm. The danged fish feeder was chuck full of the crushed aluminum cans. Apparently my little sister and her friend were playing "Twister the movie" and the fish feeder was indeed Dorothy. :thwak: Have fun!

Hmm. I am 6'3" and find the 97+ buckets (using the 97+ floor brace and seat brackets) to be stellar. Then again, I really like the 2000 era stock Jeep seats. I mounted them as far back as possible and actually had to slide the seat forward a tad to fully depress the clutch.

You see, it always starts with an 03 Rubi. Then you buy your first MJ. Then you buy your second MJ. Then you spend all of your time with the MJs and 3 years later you realize your Rubi hasn't been modified since the purchase of the first MJ. At least that's what happened to me. Welcome to the club :wavey:

The other rubber line is likely the axle vent line. It terminates at the frame rail near the brake line fittings.

If I am not mistaken, couldn't the turbines be had on a 99 XJ? I am pretty sure wheels in the OP were what remained on the XJ donor I bought.

She is smooth to 55mph...... :thumbsup: With no seatbelts and spongy brakes, I didn't try for any more. Now its time to tackle the long list of small stuff to be done. Buck, if you are looking for a road trip, JC is less than 2 hrs from KC! We really enjoy being out of the big city and in our own place in the country. First order of business:

Thanks for the comments and encouragement. I am hopeful that the trans and tcase are in good working condition.... Rob, thanks for the tip on the shift knob. I had just figured I would be getting some crappy replacement.

Its getting close :clapping: I haven't been able to really 'test' the fabric dye as I haven't spent much time in the cab. I have rubbed, bumped and sweated all over the driver side door panel and I haven't had any peeling or scraping of the dye. I have also had a few trim pieces that were dyed, in the bed, when I moved the truck to the new house and did not get scratched up. I need to finish spraying the dash some day.... Thanks Trevor! This truck may be a 'beater', but by golly it will be safe and reliable (at least in theory). A few pictures of the progress: The transmission installed. Now my engine bay looks 'normal' with the motor sitting level. My new clutch hydraulic system. I upgraded to a late model hydraulic system since the bell housing I bought had the slave on the driver side. The master, hydraulic line, and slave are for a '95 XJ. The hydraulic line is a weird flexible plastic material. My TJ has the same set up. Also, there is no bleeder valve at the slave. You must manually operate the slave piston while keeping the master full of brake fluid. I have great clutch feel now :thumbsup: Bolted the shifter in place. I need a new knob as this one pulls right off. YJ brake lines installed. I need to bend the hard line for shock clearance and better angles for the rubber line. When bleeding the brakes I noticed fluid dripping near the fuel tank. One of the rear brake lines had rusted through. So out it came along with that silly prop valve. And of course, the 3rd coming of the fuel tank. I've got two drive shafts as well as a whole bunch of new fluids ready to go in the garage.

Well, July 1st came and went and the truck still doesn't move under its own power. I have been held back by high heat, a long work schedule and a slew of parts that simply did not work on the truck or were wrong. In the last week I have done the following: - Ordered, received, painted and installed a new fuel tank. This one had better not leak.... - Installed the Monroe shocks I had on my 92 for a few months. - I figured out the bell housing I bought was for a late model AX5. I will be running the clutch system for a 95XJ. External slave, goofy plastic hydraulic line and master. I replaced the throwout bearing with a new Mopar left over from my Rubi. Finally the transmission and transfer cases was raised into position and bolted to the 2.5l. Still waiting on the hydraulic line from Napa. - Started in on the front brakes. Picked up brake pads and cleaned up the rotors. Realised both calipers are seized and need replaced. Also noticed the rubber lines were very worn. Have calipers and YJ rubber brake lines on the way. Trying to separate the rubber line from hard line was fun as 26 years of rust and crust had to break away from the fragile brake line. Some heat, a small fire and a couple pair of vice grips they are free. - I noticed a needle zerk fitting on the front u-joint caps so I greased them. - Replaced the busted driver side tail light. - Installed AX5 shifter. My plan for the next week to get this thing rolling: - Finish brake work up front, bleed - Install hydraulic clutch components, bleed - Attempt to install and adjust 4wd linkage - New u-joints for front and rear drive shafts - Attempt to install missing exhaust pieces - New fluids all around (D30, D35, 2.5L, AX5, 207) - Check torque on all nuts and bolts

A cold front came through along with rain and more humidity. Will be a chilly 100 today. Ugh, can only work on the MJ after dark when it is bearable.

They gave me 1.5-2". I can't say for sure, since my initial ride height was measured with a transmission, tcase and bumper in the bed.

Bought mine from AutoZone. Sure the spacers are a little pricey, but the additional cost is null with free shipping. Superior Automotive 2 pcs. rear lowering shackle kit Part Number: 13-4100 Shocks will round out the BB.

I know the import folks think it may be cool, but you have way too much negative camber!!!!!! :rotf: Really debating these tires or the Kevlar MTR for my truck....

Next time.... No foot prints No other tire tracks :cheers: Looks good.

Heck, the only reason I use 4wd is for low range. Much less wear and tear on the clutch. Depending on your rear tires, I would recommend airing them down to 10-15psi. If you have never done it, you will shocked at the added traction. They key to successful wheeling is grease it AFTER really well. Helps push to dirt, grime and moisture out.