87Warrior

After I replace my floors this is what I plan on doing: - POR 15 the floor pans - Use the POR15 top coat primer on treated floor pans - Finish painting with a layer of rubberized undercoating - Finish it off with insulated carpet I simply do not want any adhesive backed material on the floor that can capture and hold water. Doesn't seem like a good idea. On top of POR15 the rubberized undercoating should help reduce heat exchange and sound without worry of holding water and rusting.

Man, what are the specs on that jack? It looks like it might actually fit under my wife's Camry. We did a move dinner/date on the 7th and exchanged cards on the 14th.

My guess would be a bad ground somewhere. I doubt it is in the bed harness due to the way the XJ is/was wired. Have you checked the actual sender?

My offer still stands to pull any of the interior out of that truck that you want. :thumbsup:

I did it once years ago. I immediately realized the idiocracy in my brain and just let it sit lower, only on jackstands :wall: Luckily I have not seen that happening much as of lately. But when ever I do, I make sure to let the builder know they must remove the blocks.

It is a 1.5 hour drive. How much is it really worth to you, or you Trevor? Little to nothing for me, but I know its rare. I would be more than willing to pull the parts next weekend if he is around. I could then ship or hold for pick up, or you could hope the CL lister would be honest enough to ship. Its up to you guys :dunce:

Define horrible. I did not see any major tears after a quick glance and the seat had my spring than my 92 did. Was dirty.

Cloth, black and white checkered.

It has a single glass back window. He is pretty reasonable as far as prices go, but not an idiot. I would imagine he would let the entire interior go for less than $100. He did mention that somebody was coming out to pull the steering column. If you want anything from it and can't make the drive, let me know. I may try to make another drive north next weekend. Heck, if you do make the drive I am just off 77 with my MJ :rotf:

http://topeka.craigslist.org/pts/2178440738.html Went and visited this truck today. 1986, "custom", 2.8L, D35, auto sitting in a muddy field. It has not moved since 2002. I got the bumper/brackets, taillights, emblems, b-pillar lights and rear flares. It has BLACK interior in pretty good shape. It was a bench seat. Some of the vinyl was chipped up along the passenger side window. The body was kind of rough, but it did has good cab corners and rockers. Bed has minor rot on the driver side and peeling bondo on the passenger side rear. The tailgate has a slight bow outward. Has one good cab vent (driver). Solid back glass. I just wanted to pass this info along to anybody who may want it. If you do want it and are too far away to pick it up, I would gladly make the drive back up there to pull the parts for you. Just negotiate the price with the owner and pay him, or send me some to give him. Kick back would be appreciated :thumbsup: I may go back and try to cut out the B Pillars, rockers, and cab corners since the guy said it will be getting scrapped eventually.

Looking great Trevor. I was beginning to wonder how the progress has been going.

I really like the silver in the slots. Very fresh. The eye-lids... naw ;)

The camshaft position sensor replaced the distributor and connects to the oil pump. Sounding like an oil pump failure.

I would certainly be interested in a complete hitch or even the brackets, assuming the cost can stay decent. I mean, if the cost hits 1/2 of the cost of the Hanson rear bumper with reciever, I might as well place an pre-order for the bumper... I do have a factory hitch that mounts to the factory bumper brackets, but I haven't even unwrapped it because I keep hoping something stronger comes along.

I would not play the X"s of lift number game. Find somewhere to completely flex out the back of your truck, maybe out some weight in the back to force the new, stiff, springs to flex. Measure the distance between the shock mounts when compressed and flexed. This will allow you to find the perfect shock for your application, no matter what set up you run. From the sounds of it you never got the right sized shock for a 4.5" lift.

I would see what the codes are saying before thinking too much about it. My 03 TJ has a 'dummy' oil pressure gauge. It looks like a normal needle pointer, but it will only position the needle in 3 positions, zero-normal-high. I guess Chrysler was tired of 4.0s coming in with fluctuating oil pressure gauges.. Here is a link to some of the dummy gauge information: http://www.rubiconownersforum.com/phpbb ... ock,+gauge

I have one still in the tank I pulled from my 92. I will not need any of it because I will be using the 99 XJ stuff. My fuel gauge would never read over 1/2 a tank, but it would fall to E just as normal. I never did troubleshoot the issue. I will try and pull it this weekend. Edit for pictures:

Being an '02 it might have the dummy oil gauge, meaning it will read zero or perfect (I know my '03 is like this). Did the check gauges light come on? Check engine light? Flip the key to On three times and see if any codes show up. What kind of oil do you run in it? When I lived out in CO I had to fire up the TJ in many -15 degree days as well as some -25. Buurrrrr. Never had an issue.

I was thinking that too. Granted that MJ did not have a lift. Maybe they are re-tooling so we can buy a NEW bed :yes:

That is quite surprising. I had always assumed RE had the bulk of the bolt on Jeep suspension market. Hope they can get their act together and get cranking again...

Willy, good eye from the pictures I did post. The truck raised up 2-3" when the drivetrain was removed thus pulling the axle to the driver side. However, the trackbar is fine and shaped identical to both XJs (family '93 and '99 donor). The drive side coil spring does go straight down (relative, since it is not at ride height) to the axle mount. The bumpstop tower, or something up there, is bent towards the frame rail. Every front suspension component will be replaced along with the axle after paint. Thank you! Just don't hold your breath, I am extraordinarily slow :rotf:

Since I have been getting to know every square millimeter of this truck, I have been noticing some rather bizarre things.... primarily the front suspension: Passenger coil spring is busted... No wonder this truck never had the driver side lean: Bowed out to the Knuckle: Driver Bumpstop is tweaked... almost rubbing the coil: These issues, along with the upper control arm that is smashed on the TOP, lead me to believe this truck has been air born at some point in its life.

Made some more progress on the frame. This was in the way, so I removed it: Some of the post-blasting-pre-update pics: This is the worst of it. Located above the rear bumpstop location. After some blasting, the under carriage: (I need to degrease the rest of it. I burned through A LOT of media trying to blast the 1/4" layer of grease over the under coating) Just how good is that cab corner... blasted until the sheet metal quit disappearing. Cleaned up spring hanger: Progress was quickly halted when a rain shower dampened the used media while I was in town at lunch. Just turned the media to mud. I was able to reuse some of the media I previously collected and bagged. A simple 6" strainer from the Walmart kitchen section was used to filter the used media. Worked perfect!

Subscribing to this thread. I like the direction it is going.

I have a pair of Cabelas gortex hunting boots that have suffered through about 8 years of abuse. They are still 98% water proof, some seeping when submerged for a long period of time. The leather is cracking at the toe bend and some of the sewed seems are coming apart. I would like to get a few more years of use (or until the soles are smooth) out of these boots. What is the best way to repair them? I do not care if it is pretty, just functional. Any suggestions?