Oizarod115

i have the switch you need if you'd like it. i'll never grow a pair big enough to drill those holes ;) (and no i don't have the light people, just the switch) msg me if you want it we can discuss cheap transfer (I'm not in jeeps for $)

I'm also 3 for 3 on no inner seals on xj44s axle is lookin good man!

its either a love/hate thing for most people, thanks man! i love em too

regardless of which transmission, if your truck is currently 2wd then neither one will work anyways, you can't feasibly convert a 2wd transmission to 4wd, you need the 4wd manual transmission

check out the one on a new body tundra 07+ my brother got led-lights for his and let me have his 3rdbrake+cargo light, looks like with slight mods (and a bigger set than i've got :eek: ) it would fit real nice. kinda large though it sits on the body instead of recessed like that silverado

been doin a little tinkering lately, selling my volvo since i really only need one car, going to finance gears/interior refurb with the money :cheers: since the lift and tires i've just been drivin (and getting in more trouble than ever!) stuck! Nice hole i fell off in! oops :oops: then.... Dang open diffs! stuck again SAME WEEK! argh! anywho, been ignoring the water leak for 5 years now so it was time to pull the glass and reseal. I'm on try #3 with the back glass and the MF-POS- :mad: is still leaking! ah well, try again eh? :cheers: can't win em all. windshield sealed up first try with a 9$ tube of RTV but turns out you need spacer blocks and RTV works but isn't the preferred method of mounting so i guess we'll pull it back out and do it right this time (at least its not dripping on my knee in the rain now!) buddy celebrating that we got the glass out in one piece! lot of $#!& to clean off the glass boring i know made a damn mess out of the back window. :rant: and our new project! buddy picked up a 89 YJ for 1800 bucks, great body/tub/frame completely stock suspension, non-running renix 4.0 swap + manual transmission (can you spy the TWO WHEEL DRIVE ba10 in the pics? ugh. idiot PO.s) stripping the engine/trans/XJ harness to be replaced with a 99 4.0L/ax15/231 combo out of his totalled XJ and a HO harness for a YJ.

cough BRAKE pedal hissing when BRAKE is applied cough.

hey, cool improvement! can we work on the links opening a new window/tab instead of redirecting the current screen? it didnt do it before the big update. y2k bug i guess :yes:

cool thanks, ill probly get the quart then and plan on attacking some suspension components too!

GM 5.3L from early 00s model gm truck hell of a motor (and i dislike GM) seen plenty of them with 200+k and never many problems, water pumps about the only thing that goes out and its a super easy repair. oh! and the benefit of chevys stand-a-lone engine management that makes engine wiring pretty simple since its mostly separate from cab wiring.

if you do have a BA10 (likely) you will have an np231 21spline transfer case (21 is the count of spline on the input to the case) to swap to an AX15 you would need the transmission (preferably the 94+ external slave transmission but not mandatory) and a 23 spline np231, also the 4x4 shifter linkage and transmission mount plate/mount. the internal slave setup works but the external setup feels better through the pedal and is easier to service.

POR-15 question really, por's website gives a theoretical coverage of 96sqft of coverage per quart... that should be well more than enough for one truck interior and maybe a few other trouble spots right? thanks!

whole kit only costs 48$ on hesco http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=details&inventoryID=60425&catId=7579

try a 3 or 5watt tag bulb from any parts store. fold the little metal tabs down off the base of the bulb, plug them into the injector harness from that cylinder and start the truck, you should see the bulb flicker on-off if the bulb doesnt light (it may be very faint/hard to see in bright daylight) check and make sure it has good connection at the plug and that the bulb works when given 12v... if you determine the injector harness is not giving signal then check to see whats going on with wiring

yeah, I'm rockin the original one, think it might be having a heat-sink problem... i've got a bad miss after 10-20 minute heat soak at full operating temp. and occasionally a pretty good miss in dead stop traffic. seems to be random though not just one cyl and cap-rotor-wire-cranksens are all new mopar parts figured if MSD made one for 40 bucks like they do for the HO (lucky bastards) i'd buy it :oops:

Does anyone know of a coil that is direct replacement for the Renix coil on a 4.0L? MSD seems to not make one. or does anyone know if another coil will work but just not mount the same?

DO YOU THINK MY 89 HAS THAT!?!??! OMG!

no rtv necessary on the valve cover

i guess awshifting is no longer hosted? used to be a real cool kit

I'm a last minute kinda guy, so that paper has already been turned in, but thanks for all the thoughts. it would be kinda cool to figure out how many active members we have, i like the idea of a sticky asking anyone who's registered and reading/posting to post in the thread over the course of a week. that would lure the lurkers out to at least say hey, I'm checkin in!

actually looking at the stats, probly more like 100 active members, since there are nearly 100 members with a post count ~1000

yall help me out, I need a little bit on the demographics here, and was making a general guess of ACTIVE members, i would say 50 or so truly active members? got any guesses? writing about comanche club as a discourse community for college.

:redX: the bottom 1/2" of the pedal is compression in the cable built in because the truck is already floored... if you pulled the cable even tighter you'd most likely junk the cable out in short order.

And your truck is driveable without them. indeed, you won't find them under mine.