Oizarod115

check the linkage to make sure its not rusty and is operating right

231s came behind any engine/tranny from 1987+ from 87-90 they were 21 spline input form 91+ they are 23 spline (same spline counts go for the 242 case as well.) for an AX15 you will need a 91+ case. i think after (94?) they were electric speedometer, not sure if that matters or not BA10s are 21spline

khumos are carried at kauffman tires (don't know if they have those there) theyre 140 for 35s and 124 for 33s and all the tires are carried at tirerack.com its like 80bucks for shipping for all 4 tires try discounttire.com they have local stores too

... you can't get regular 34x9.50x15 LTBs?

i hope you can shift back asswards... hahaha.

:rotfl2: oh, i am also guilty of singin that one in my head. :rotf:

that is BAD dude. niiice.

problem is... i added up the costs of everything i would need to do it right, trackbar, brakelines, all that stuff and its ALWAYS more than the kit. i can't seem to source the parts cheaper than the RE kit.

what kind of steering updates? like beefier steering? better geometry steering? HUGE tire steering? try www.jcroffroad.com they have 1-ton fullsize steering kits for comanches/cherokees that is beefy enough for large tires. this kit also lessens the angles as it uses a full length knuckle-knuckel tierod and longer drag link as opposed to the stock y-link then you could always do up your own hydro-assist steering using the stock pump and some of those little hydrolic arm things... i can't seem to remember wheree the write-up on it is though.

That's what the posilok is for, turning is a lot easier in 3wd. Although I often leave mine engaged and add a few points to the tightest trail turns. yeah the posi-lok axle was the only reason i was considering a full front lock. i will be running a dana44 rear axle, which they have both mini and full spools for.... havent decided which one yet. obviously fulls are more expensive and stronger... but do they require re-setting up of the gears? becuase i am definately NOT messing with that. ill have to pay a shop to do anything with gear setup. pingpong... i love your humor. haha. and i wish i could pay the local 4x4 guy in 6packs. (or buy 6packs for that matter...) ROOTBEER!!!

couldnt you take the the speedo cable and needle from the current one and attatch it to the gauge of the new one?

FREE MOVIES OMG OMG OMG OMG!!! I'm so excited... and i don't have to sign up or any of that other crap. :redX: us>

basically. loosen up the adjuster sleeve, measure the distance between the back of the tires, then measure the distance between the front of the tires, and adjust it until they are 1/8" toed in which means the fronts are closer than the backs of the tires. you can use a pipe-wrench to turn the tie-rod in order to adjust it. then use the adjuster sleeve on the draglink to adjust the steering wheel to center (while the tires are facing pretty damn close to striaght ahead)

so its a wench bumper eh? is it gonna deliver beers and slabs of meat fer ya and yer buddies? :brows: sorry, couldnt resist. :D heehee

bringing this thread back up... the dunlop mud rovers are reputed to have weak sidewalls eh? what about Khumo MTs... approx the same price.. people seem to get decent (or better) tread life out of them... 140 for a 35x12.50 isnt bad at all. what do the all knowing on here know about Khumos? -thanks

alas if you were in GA or close to it, i woudl buy those BFGs.

guess i was the one not lookin. haha. so you can remove the carrier and all that at a later date, you just have to re-do it? sweet. might as well get it welded up as soon as i get the disconnect.

did you see the last post?

so can you change gears in a welded diff, (done how you described) or do you need to pic the gears and then weld it?

yeah, they accidently offset my brothers bumper :oops: oops, and it sticks out 1 1/2 inch on one side, and sits flush on the other. (the under-lights part) so he had the option of sending the bumper back and having them fix/send a new one. or 1/2 price steering.... the week after he pretzeled some stock parts... the new steering has held up well. tubes arent thin at all i beleive he has the same tires as you... 35x12.50 BFG muds?

you mean for the added stress of turnin locked tires? posi-lock. disconnect the right side for hard turns. (or am i mistaken?) i was considering JCR steering, or a similar setup in the future.

full lock... its just installed like lunchbox lockers. it replaces the spidergears and locks the axles together. no moving parts. i might check out how much my local 4x shop wants to weld it up right. can you still do gear swaps and all that with them welded like you said?

yeah, sucks cause NOTHING compares to that price. and i don't need a selectable or ratcheting locker up front... thats what I'm buyin a posi-lock for... DOH! only thing cheap left is lincoln lock it and i don't know if a 30 is strong enough for that?

its basically a lockright that doesnt move. it replaces the spider gears.

they don't carry D30 spools... but interestingly, D44 spools are 170 (3.73-) 140 (3.92+) and minis are 70$ soo maybe thats what ill do in the rear.