Windowsrookie

My EGR Valve is making some nasty noises. Disconnect the vacuum lines and the noise disappears. Is the EGR Valve necessary? We don't have emissions checks here, but will the engine run fine without it? I've heard gas mileage will tank, anybody removed it? Can I just cap off the vacuum line?

Just cut out a hole like this. Pretty easy, just a bigger pain than it should be. http://www.jeepslimited.com/index.php?o ... Itemid=127

You can get an aftermarket center console thingy like I have.

For now I plan on just fixing it up and improving on what I can. No major modifications are planned right now. (that could change though) ;) I do need to get new tires on it though, It only has 215/75r/15's on it now. :oops:

That's what I always wondered, I know that there are two vacuum lines on the air box that the HO models don't have. One of them appears to go to the valve on the front of the airbox (I'm fine with removing that) but the other line looks important. Anyone know what happens to that vacuum line?

This is my 1989 Jeep Comanche. It's a Pioneer edition with the 4.0L, AW4, and 2WD. I've just been fixing it up right now. The previous owner did some "electrical" work. You know the kind, no fuses, and just stuff the wires into the fuse panel, or tap into any 12V source you can find.... These are the pictures from the ad when I bought it. Here's what it looks like now. When I bought it the interior needed some work. No headliner. Idiot lights. Rust. :( This is the interior currently. Full gauge cluster. Headliner installed, also installed lights. Previous owner had removed the lights and installed one big light on board he used as a headliner. That's what has been done so far. I'll update the thread as the Comanche changes. :)

I'm sure there is somewhere. From what I've heard, there weren't really any rules when building a Comanche at the factory.

Test for spark, if it has good pressure it has to be spark. Are you sure the CPS is seated properly, are you sure it's a Renix CPS?

What is the temperature of the coolant where the Switch mounts in the open system thermostat housing? My factory wiring to the electric fan has been tampered with by previous owners, and I just want to bypass it completely. Most of the non-adjustable fan wiring kits turn on at 195 and off at 185. I have the open system thermostat housing, and want to mount a switch in that. Is the coolant in the thermostat housing cooler, or do I need to buy an adjustable wiring kit so I can bump up the temp the fan turns on at?

Dana 35?? The letting off the gas makes me think its the rear end.. :agree: Anything in the drive line that would stop whining when you let off on the gas, taking the torque off would show up. Hows the fluid levels in the rear, tranny, Trans case??? What shape are the U-joints in?? IIRC when you first started this, you had the whine when you were stopped.....parked, right?? No, never had the whine in park. Always on the highway. The fluid in the transmission and rear end is good. I just changed them both (the whine was present before I changed the fluids) Also, it's 2WD so no transfer case, front diff, etc.

I replaced the Harmonic Balancer, and still have the noise. It's loudest between 40-50MPH over 50 and it seems to get quieter. When traveling between 40-50MPH If I'm on the gas it whines, as soon as I let off it's silent. What could whine like that?

I've got this ratting coming from the engine, (mainly the first 10 minutes after starting the engine) and I'm thinking it's the flexplate. How difficult is it to replace? Is it something I can tackle at home, or do I need to bring it somewhere?

Went to the junk yard, got a set of tail lights, "Comanche" emblems, and some interior pieces. Also started on the fan clutch.

Acer, Asus, HP, Dell, etc. all make similar netbooks. I personally like the Hp mini note. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp ... 8028867515

It doesn't do it in park. I also checked the pinion and it is snug with no play in it.

You guys can have some of my snow. We've got a good 10+ inches on the ground. Last week we had about 6" dumped in a few hours, still had school. :fs1:

Should I check with the drive shaft off? When I checked the U-joints a few weeks ago there was no rotational play in the drive shaft. I didn't check for up/down play at the pinion though.

Yes, some of the rubber is sticking out of the pulley, but would that cause a whine while accelerating? There is no whine while stopped and stepping on the gas.

I've got a whine at higher speeds on the Comanche. I can hear it very well in the cab, and it's hard to tell where it's coming from. It only whines when accelerating, if I let off the gas the noise completely goes away. There's no noise at speeds below 35MPH. Anybody have any idea what it could be? It's 2wd so I don't think there's anything up front that could whine like that. It also seems to be almost non-existent at first, but as things warm up the whine gets louder.

My mom's 2008 liberty has a pretty cool feature. The front passenger seat folds all the way forward making the back of the upper portion a table. Maybe an option in 10 years when they're easier to come by. :)

Monotubes are the way to go. Most of the cheaper shocks are a twin tube design, twin tubes just can't match the Monotube ride. I have the KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, they are monotube and ride very well. CarQuest sells them, http://www.rockauto.com also sells them.

I cleaned the IAC, and the volt gauge reads at a little above 14 at Idle (unless I turn on the lights, then it drops down to a little under 14 volts). All my battery cables are new too. My battery looks to be older, but I haven't had any issues starting the truck with it (even in the cold weather here). All of the vacuum lines appear to be in place, the Air box lid does have a small hole in it. I plan on picking up a new lid as soon as one shows up in the junk yard.

My Comanche has a low idle, and nobody has been able to help. The TPS is adjusted correctly, and the Intake manifold bolts are tight, yet it still idles at slightly below the first line on the Tachometer (almost stalling out). Anybody have any idea what the problem could be?

4.7 is the way to go on the WJ's, they are too heavy for the 4.0. Quadra-Drive II doesn't exist (at least on WJs) WJs were offered with Quadra-Drive, Quadra-Trac II, and Select-Trac. Quadra-Drive is Quadra-Track II, but with limited slips front and rear. Select-Trac is the 242 Transfer Case. Quadra-Drive is a great system, I have it and love it. Yes, it will bind up in sharp turns once and a while (particularly when it's very cold out and the fluids are thick) but is nothing to worry about. The limited slips front and rear work together with the Quadra-Drive transfer case, making it possible to send 99% of the power to one wheel with the most traction. All of this is done mechanically with no sensors to fail. The limited slips in WJs are also a different design, with a pump that allows for almost no wearing of the clutches. The only disadvantage of the Quadra-Drive Transfer Case (247) is that it requires a special fluid from the dealer (ATF+4 isn't "Slippery" enough) The 1999 WJ's were filled with ATF+4, and that is what caused most of the problems on that year. The 1999 models were just fine, not much was changed actually in the newer models. And almost everything that was is pretty easy to swap in. (Brake calipers, front drive shaft, etc.) Remember, the newer the WJs got, the less features they had (Budget cuts). Things like the under hood lamp, courtesy lights on the doors, rubber protection strips on the roof, etc. were removed in the later years. Sentry Key was standard on all WJ's except for the very base models in 1999. It'll be hard to find one without Sentry Key. But as long as you have two keys, you can program a large amount on your own (I forget the exact number). Also, around 2001 the 545RFE transmission was introduced (6 forward speeds). The 45RFE (5 forward speeds) offered in the earlier WJ's is exactly the same, just with older software that didn't use the 6th gear. The newer software update is available at the dealer. The 545RFE has 5 gears it normally uses, and a special 6th gear between 2nd and 3rd for passing on the freeway. 2002.5+ WJ's have the newer brake system. The newer system included more efficient calipers (that do not warp the rotors, like older WJ's calipers) and a slightly more powerful Booster. The calipers are sold as an upgrade package for previous year WJs too. Also, the D44A is a fine axle, much better than the D35. I have only had to replace 1 axle seal on my D44A (130,000 miles on it) and it's a very simple process on the D44A. There are no C-clips, so you don't even have to open the differential. The only time the D44A is weak, is if you slam it into a rock. The D44A is on all 4.7 WJs. 4.0 WJs had 3.55 gears 4.0 Tow Package 3.73 gears 4.7 3.73 gears. 4.0: Electric fan (relay is common failure) 4.0 Tow package: Electric + Mechanical 4.7 through 2001: Electric + Mechanical 4.7 2002+ Hydraulically powered by Power Steering pump.

Where do you guys buy the stalk from? I've been looking but all I can find are the switches in the column.