64 Cheyenne

Thanks BLHTAZ, Those are good words.Words that are helpful for to me to hear also. Most importantly the "Trust God" part. Thank you! God Bless all Ed

I want one!

I found an 8.8 at the local "Rez" yard,offered the guy a hundred and a half for it....maybe. told him I had to research the info on the data tag before I committed to buying it. here is the info off of the tag: 5614B 3 73 88 6D10 I'm guessing the 3 73 is the ratio,bad for me.I need a 4:10. the rest I don't know,what am i looking for if it has a LSD? Is doing a R&P swap worth it on this axel if I'm only paying 150$ for it (I would be adding some type of traction device at this time if the diff doesnt have LSD)Heck even if it has an LSD I still have to change R&P. This axel does have disk brakes. :dunno:

Seriously.. :hmm: . Why waste your time with a 2.8 or a 3.4? if your bound and determined to stick with a 90* V-6 :nuts: ..then why not go with the 3.8 Buick Grand National Turbo set up.. 4 barrel carb..plus you can actually stroke that one and know it will last!.. Piss on that whole 2.8l-3.4l crap!! that's as bad as trying to stuff a 305 in a fullsize chevy pickup when you have access to a 350 that could go in it.. :wall: just my .02....good luck that involves custom work. a 3.4 liter being the same block as the 2.8 will bolt on using 2.8 exhaust manifolds and motor mounts and an a/c delete bracket, then minimal wiring necessary to make it run...4 positives, one 55 ohm supply to pin 55 (blue wire) on the ecu from a VATS bypass module, and a couple grounds. I personally would rather go as close to stock in my swaps as possible. I've DONE a buick 3800 swap, and I DID NOT enjoy getting the thing there, finding I had to custom build the clutch throwout plate and modify the bellhousing due to flywheel differences and starter locations, then build custom motor mounts (which required modifying the frame rails), custom exhaust and y-pipe, custom fuel lines, custom header panel to fit a 4.0 radiator in an 86 MJ, custom e-fans, then all the associated wiring (since I removed all unnecessary camaro wires such as lights etc.), then figuring out how to get high enough fuel pressure and which pump to do it with. it was a huge B!+@# of a project...I'd rather just swap parts that bolt on and not have to fabricate to be honest. If it was me, I'd bust a move on the FI swap.there are lots of people on this board who would be more than willing to help you make this work. One more thing about your project,My dog's name is "MOJO" so I kind of have a helpful intrest in your build. Ed

:agree:

God, I hope that thing has outriggers.Not so much as for lateral loads ,but as for what its going to do to the poor, stamped metal uni-frame. :roll:

I've drove some ugly cars, I have a hard time believing, that when I got pulled over in one of them,and the cop told me that they were looking for a car that looked like mine that was involved in an incident....Come on......I might have been born at night,but not last night! In my experience, cops say this to cover their a&&eS, when they discover a chargeable offense in the stop, then they had "probable cause".They also do this when they do a "Ponytail stop". :smart: cops :mad:

Bump.... come on people,WMCIS.

NNNOOOOOOOOOOOO.................Carb! F.I. is like "One giant leap for mankind" Carburetors are a piece of ancient history from the dark ages,they had their time and place in "History". IMHO, I'd go the extra mile to make the F.I. work.

Needs bullet holes,real,or stick on's.

How about a thread of Mj Milestones.IE: D44 can be found in some 87 Metric tonne long beds. Door seals from a 97? up Cherokee can be fitted and are better (thicker)etc. Engines,popular swaps,like brakes and control arm upgrades (years that parts can be :typing: sourced from). I'm kind of new to MJ's and there are a lot of good ideas out there,but this makes for a lot to remember for possible future upgrades.So what do you think?

FYI my friends dad owns a car crusher. the powers that be mandate that all mercury switches ,(mercury-really bad &hi+ for your central nervous system) coolant,compressed gasses,oils,etc.be removed/recovered before crushing.

Bump......anybody else?.......

So what does it mean to "bump" a thread? :hmm:

So I'm at the local JY yesterday,made a deal with the guy for a slider back window(they had 2),carpet,set of polished stainless truck mirrors,and a full gauge cluster,All for a hundred bucks.they also had a pristine tailgate that I almost convinced myself that I wanted. Anyway,I'm asking for :help: suggestions on how to get the glass out of my truck,without breaking it or cutting the gasket,I hate to destroy good parts bc don't know when I might need a backglass or gasket.

I think your right,seemed fitting.thanks for the help.

O.K. 8" rims then,any suggestions as to where from?

I posted a WTB in the classifieds,but what I'm asking for here is,does anybody have a suggestion on where I can purchase (cheep) 5 new 15x10 steel wheels 3.75 or 4.0 bs ?Mounting 33 12.5 15s I'm not sure what bs I should get.new or used? Far as lift and clearance goes,I'm starting with the end result........anyways I think I read that somewhere......

I read a few articles on wind/solar power,and I was very interested.BUT,when I took into account the initial expense of buying or building a system,as it states in one of those ad's it can take years to reap the benefits after the initial cost. Although a panel or turbine can put out a lot of power,it takes a few other pieces of equipment to make it pay for you. 1st you have to be able to store the electricity,which means batteries,you'd need enough battery capacity to store enough electricity for your own use. were talking about banks of batteries here,and those types of batteries aren't cheap.(car batteries won't work)Then you have to have an inverter/charge controller.The inverter converts your DC power from your wind/solar system to usable 120volt power,then the charge controller does just what it's name implies,controls the charge so your system doesn't fry your batteries.By the way good usable systems usually run both wind and solar generation. Now that the system is up and running,the batteries are charged,your not using power in the house,you can sell power back to the power company,but first you have to have another piece of equipment,a switch to put regulated currant back onto the grid.whew! all this stuff could have bought a lot of Jeep or Harley parts.The way I see it a system like this would be great in a cabin out in the boonies where there isn't any power.So for me to save a few bucks and do my part for the green thing,I just do as so many others,.......turn off the light,turn down the t/stat. One last thing,when I see a bright flashy add that promises me things for cheap.....Buyer Beware!

Can I use the AX5/207 I have out of my doner XJ ,till I get a AX15/231. :dunno: Or should I hold out,sell theAX5/207 and BA10 to help pay for trans/tc that I need? Which brings up the next question,Is there a particular years of trans/tc that I should use or not use because of speedo, or clutch throw out bearing issues?Am I going to be searching for a pre-92 because of the mechanical speedometer drive? Am I going to be able to use a clutch set up that has an external slave assy,I think Iv'e gotten the idea that the throw out assy. that is internal on the input shaft is junk.Last of all I will be posting the 2 trans & 1 TC in the classifieds when they get pulled,hopefully if it warms up a little.lol....April.Or sooner if there is an interest in any of this stuff before then.

Alright,I'll bite on this one.I know where the r/valve is but on mine the linkage is broke off.replace the rod (try)? Wire it up or down? Or eliminate it out of the system? Otherwise I would,make sure the master cyl is full.Bleed the brakes.inspect linings,go from there.

I know this is getting off topic, but ask anybody who was in SE Asia in the early 70s if "those guys" over there had or needed CNC machines. Now after a short internet search,and from my own personal knowledge,you can't cut tempered safety glass (shatters into a million pieces),but you can cut laminated safety glass(the kind with plastic in it).I haven't done it before,bc haven't needed to but i have watched it done a few times.I wouldn't be afraid to attempt this myself,it's not that hard at all.A person should use the appropriate safety gear,take their time and they will do just fine.

I got this MJ about 3wks ago for 500 dollars. It was so cold when I bought it, couldn't see if it ran.I really wanted another Jeep so I took a chance on what the guy told me about it, so here it is. Well the weather warmed up here a little,so I put a battery in it,a couple gallons of gas,found a #6 plug wire for it.maybe that's why the PO couldn't get it started. Repaired the PCV hose,and a broke vacuum line.She fired right up! After insuring that the truck was running OK, I took it down the block and back.Seemed to steer,shift and brake well. Future plans are putting f/r axels out of my 4cyl XJ under it (4:10s)lift to fit 33s.AllI really need right now is an AX15/NP231. This is all Just the beginning,as I'm much aware of where my truck has it's shortcomings.It's gonna be a great project! Image Not Found 87MJ Sportruck 6cyl 5sp 2wd swb 137,000 mi. Little to no rust. :banana:

Image Not Found

got a pic in photobucket, window open ,how do i get the pic from there to here?