64 Cheyenne

BTT Do I install it, pry against the bottom of the square part..........? :dunno:

If I had a XJ master, say from a 99, would it have bolted up without any fab like i had to do?

How do I get this apart To replace this seal and the boot ? :dunno:

And the finished product Now I'm moving onto installing this. AX-15 and 231 TC Got the AX-15 installed, will hook up the TC, and slave assy tomorrow

And the finished product Now I'm moving onto installing this. AX-15 and 231 TC

I'm converting my 87 MJ 2wd to 4wd. The trans, clutch,and MC assy came out of a 99 XJ. Here was my problem and how I solved it. Come to find out the JY sent me a MC out of a TJ, oh well.... all done now. This is a pic of where the 87 MC mounted. And this is a pic of the configuration of how the 99 MC would mount. The problem is that the 87 mounts at the 12 and 6 O'clock position, and the 99 mounts at the 5 and 11 O'clock position. Another problem is the bolt mounting centers are also different. I thought about just drilling holes at the 5 and 11 as shown by the Xs, and I also trimmed the index on the mount thinking that if I rotated the mount I might be able to gain a more favorable mounting position. I eventually left it in the stock location at the 5 and 11 position. To gain more room, I rerouted the hood release cable threw the grommet to the upper right in this view. Then I cut a 4"x4" piece of 3/16 steel. Cut a 1 1/2" hole in the center, welded 2-3/8" bolts to the backside, on the stock mounting centers. Then I Cut the 99 mount into a round shape, welded it onto my new mounting plate. Hows this for my first weld project with my new HF welder? Better than some guys can't do.... :yes: Although it still looks like DOO-DOO. The reason that I didn't just drill holes at the 5 and 11 positions is this, first there might have been clearance issues on the backside and second and most important part is that if I did this then structurally I would be putting the force/stress of using the clutch on the sheetmetal of the firewall alone. The force needs to be on this bracket. If I was to do anything different I would have taken the time to remove this bracket/brace from the backside of the firewall,before I did any fabricating. There is only one bolt holding it on when the MC is removed. Image Not Found Image Not Found I would have removed this bracket for 2 reasons. One, the stud on the bottom has to be removed (I tried to remove it the hard way, cutting drilling it from the engine side) Do yourself a favor and take it off from the backside of the firewall, way easier! And second it can be used as a jig in setting up your mounting bracket to insure you have the correct bolt centers. Well all that is left is to take finished pictures of the install, but first I have to get a plug for where the hood release cable originally ran. Then I can put a bead of sealant behind it and bolt it up! BTW this is posted in the DIY section also.

Oh Well, it's a done deal now. as seen in my DIY post viewtopic.php?f=9&t=16546 BTW the JY that I purchased this stuff from sold it to me off of a "99 Jeep Cherokee" I'll be double checking just to be sure, although, I'm sure, that what I got is gonna work. Edit: According to carfax, the vin# of the vehicle that my parts were sold to me under , is a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport.

I'm converting my 87 MJ 2wd to 4wd. The trans, clutch,and MC assy came out of a 99 XJ. Here was my problem and how I solved it. This is a pic of where the 87 MC mounted. And this is a pic of the configuration of how the 99 MC would mount. The problem is that the 87 mounts at the 12 and 6 O'clock position, and the 99 mounts at the 5 and 11 O'clock position. Another problem is the bolt mounting centers are also different. I thought about just drilling holes at the 5 and 11 as shown by the Xs, and I also trimmed the index on the mount thinking that if I rotated the mount I might be able to gain a more favorable mounting position. I eventually left it in the stock location at the 5 and 11 position. To gain more room, I rerouted the hood release cable threw the grommet to the upper right in this view. Then I cut a 4"x4" piece of 3/16 steel. Cut a 1 1/2" hole in the center, welded 2-3/8" bolts to the backside, on the stock mounting centers. Then I Cut the 99 mount into a round shape, welded it onto my new mounting plate. Hows this for my first weld project with my new HF welder? Better than some guys can't do.... :yes: Although it still looks like DOO-DOO. The reason that I didn't just drill holes at the 5 and 11 positions is this, first there might have been clearance issues on the backside and second and most important part is that if I did this then structurally I would be putting the force/stress of using the clutch on the sheetmetal of the firewall alone. The force needs to be on this bracket. If I was to do anything different I would have taken the time to remove this bracket/brace from the backside of the firewall,before I did any fabricating. There is only one bolt holding it on when the MC is removed. Image Not Found Image Not Found I would have removed this bracket for 2 reasons. One, the stud on the bottom has to be removed (I tried to remove it the hard way, cutting drilling it from the engine side) Do yourself a favor and take it off from the backside of the firewall, way easier! And second it can be used as a jig in setting up your mounting bracket to insure you have the correct bolt centers. Well all that is left is to take finished pictures of the install, but first I have to get a plug for where the hood release cable originally ran. Then I can put a bead of sealant behind it and bolt it up!

Currently I'm working on installing my AX-15. But first I need to get the Clutch Slave assy installed.Looking for suggestions on installing my 99 master into my 87 MJ, before I start drilling holes. So far, to make room, Iv'e moved the hood release cable, up to the right as seen in these pics. The wire thing inthe pics is just a zip tie, not there for any particular meaning. Next comes the MC ,I clearanced the index on the mounting flange so I have more options on how the mounting "clocks. This wasnt really needed as I think I'll use the stock mounting setup. Now for drilling the holes, here, where the Xs are or is there a better way?

Gotta be on the ground, as this is the way you will be "going down the road". :D

Yah, you gotta split the case. I just swapped mine last week. FYI, there are 3 "slots" around the circumference of the case for you to put a screwdriver in to pry against. Also be aware that you have to remove the rear retainer and extension housing before the case will come apart. Like I said, I just did this, I've never tore a TC apart before, it wasn't hard. PM me with questions if you want.

I'm sold, I'm running it! See if I can break it! Thanks guys for the input :cheers:

How about preheating before welding, and what type of wire or rod would I need? :dunno:

Is it really necessary to weld the tubes to the center section on my 8.8 conversion? I'm gonna be running 33s AX-15 stock engine. Can I do it with my MIG welder? I can borrow a stick welder if I have to,what type/kind of rod should I get. If I do it this way I'll practice on the D35. :rotf: Is this doeable for somebody such as myself or should I pay an xpert to have it done.

I have that part from the old drive shaft. A guy I was talking to said that setup wasn't very tolerable to high driveline angles. not that I'm going to subject my driveline to any extremes. It's just that if there is a butter setup such as this style: Then I think that is what I should be using. Only makes sense, after putting hundreds into the darn thing, I don't want it to have any shortcomings, or things I should have done. :typing:

OK, Will that part look like this style: Or will it look like this style: Although the second picture is a D35) And how much is "less than 50 bucks" delivered? :dunno:

Just searched billings MT for that and No.

where can I purchase a 8.8 pinion yoke for my conversion/install ?

When I did my cluster swap, the connector to the printed circuit wasn't seating properly. My fix was to trim the female part of the plug receptacle so that the plug was able to seat correctly. Before I did this, the gauge would either peg to full, or would read empty. I knew there was fuel in the tank because I put about 5 gallons in it. See what I did in my post here: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=13953&start=0 part way down on the first page. :typing:

A TRE is on the frame end. GLAD you found it so fast!!! Good job! CW CW, I believe the original post was by thedave360 Back to the DW, you didn't state whether you have stock suspension or any kind of suspension modifications such as lift. Myself I'm prone to believe possible problems could be track bar mounts, or maybe caster angle. But I also agree with all of the above to include a thorough suspension inspection. Please keep us posted with what you find and how you fixed it. :typing:

Suggest you mic the ODs of both yokes. :yes:

Chain replacement is in the works. :thumbsup:

How about the yoke itself ? A worn or nicked yoke will have a leak you won't be able to stop. Maybe try and replace the yoke,easy to do as if you were replacing a U-joint. :typing:

Is that 66,68,89, or 99 ? LOL :rotf: :yes: :D BTW This is also posted in the Tech section.

The fluid was "normal" looking IE: not burnt, brown, full of sludge, metal debris, etc.