64 Cheyenne

I was referring to the 8.8 when checking pinion preload with the crushsleeve eliminator. I fully understand the workings of the D30 crush sleeve. The axles will be out of the vehicle on differential stands that I made for this purpose. Good thing I have a really big cheater bar and 3/4 drive sockets.

I guess the short question is will I be able to get the 350 ft/lbs (+/-) with my 3/4" socket set and a cheater bar? Keep in mind that the first part of my OP was about the crushsleeve on the D30s, the second part was with the use of a crushsleeve eliminator on the 8.8. jimoshels quote: For the pre load, just snug it up tight. No play. For final assembly Minimum, 210ft. lbs. I believe he is referring to the 8.8 without crushsleeve.

Another thing to check, turn heater fan on, check for voltage at the heater motor. If you have voltage, then probably a ground issue, no voltage, then power supply issue. You can unplug the heater motor at the bulkhead (under the pressure bottle if Renix) to check for voltage.

OK, I've amassed all the tools and parts to do my first (four) gear swap. Been researching for a couple years on the subject, I feel confidant and ready to jump in. My question is this: To achieve the amount of torque needed to crush the "crushsleeve", can I get it with a long cheeter bar, or maybe I was thinking of buying a torque multiplier (if I can find one for a decent price). My rattle gun definitely won't do it. I'm not asking how to set preload or anything like that, I'm just asking for thoughts or suggestions on achieving the desired amount of torque. BTW I do have a pinion holding tool (made it with my HF welder ) and a quality 3/4 drive socket set. Lastly on the 8.8, I'm wanting to use a crushsleeve eliminator. I know how the shims are added or subtracted to get correct preload, but how many ft/lbs should the nut be torqued to take preload measurement? And yes I do have a in/lb torque wrench (beam type). What torque range are we talking on the pinion nut, 400 ft/lb max? More? I am also aware not to overtighten, have extra crushsleeves and pinion nuts. So there is no confusion, I'm doing 2 D30s and 2 8.8s, 4.10 and 4.56 ratios. Believe me I've definitely done my homework on this, but as everybody knows it never hurts to ask for pointers on the stuff I can't find answers to.

False alarm......... Still searching.

Sometimes the ground strap from the block to firewall can be the culprit, especially if it is mucked up. Jeep ran the chassis ground through the block then to the firewall. Bad idea. Some guys run a separate chassis ground from the battery to the fender, circumventing the block to chassis ground. Be aware you still need that ground though (engine).

Yep, they all related in the sense that they are all electrical, needing a complete circuit positive to neg to work. I'd start with checking grounds. Battery, especially engine to body.

Needs a a humongous hood scoop, and a Hemi.

Hose lube? I just spit on it........ :rotf:

Here's another good one: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/088020.html Actually, IMO this one rates A+. I copied it for future reference, even though my tilt columns work fine. That is if I can keep my daughter from using the wheel as a grab handle (Bad habit needs to be broken) to get into the cab.

Still looking, at this point I'd be happy with any color.

As before :agree:

Check caster angle, might need either LCA DBs or adjustable LCAs.

:shake: :rotf: http://billings.craigslist.org/pts/1765172665.html Probably couldn't take the heat.

My suggestion is to get rid of the "old" pressure bottle, install an overflow tank that was designed for the purpose. The old bottle is not vented,which you need to have for this conversion. The key to the open system is the radiator cap, the spring is designed to keep X psi in the system preventing boil over. The closed system relies on being (closed) to maintain pressure thus preventing boil over. The pressure bottle on a closed system is designed with some "open" space to allow for expansion as the system gets hot. This system doesn't allow for coolant flow back and forth between the radiator and a vented overflow tank. In other words your nearly there, get the proper bottle. IMHO it's not worth ditching the heater control valve after all this work, just swap to the newer heater control valve (JY is your friend) and you should be good to go. Lastly, the closed system worked for many years. With a good pressure bottle and proper system "burping", I feel that the closed system can be made to perform as designed.

Check this out from NAXJA http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63438

Cherokees are a dime a dozen, even 4wd ones.......hint hint. AW4s are nearly bullet proof, not very many failures for the numbers. Myself, I'd forgo a rebuilt tranny, that kind of money could go a long way towards buying a whole nother XJ (4x4 maybe?) either a decent running one, or one for parts. Besides how much is a rebuilt tranny going to cost? Installed? BTW, some shops won't warranty a rebuilt tranny unless they install it. Most shadetree mechanics don't have the equipment to flush a tranny cooler and lines which is essential for a new/rebuilt tranny. Lastly, you could always put a used AW4 with TC in the GFs XJ, saving the rest of the conversion for a later date.

Exploder update. It's still there, although the engine, tranny and TC, interior all gone. Nothing left but the shell.

Ford Courier 70ish?

Found another one. This one was so far down in a draw I almost missed it. If my friend hadn't have seen it before we turned around... Anyways, looks like it was there for a while (years?). Took the grill guard/bumper, swapped it for a front skid. My friend is gonna use it for the start of his bumper on his MJ. The spare tire mount I'm either gonna use it to mount an extra spare like the way it is or maybe use it to mount the spare tire desert racer style. Back to the courier, besides being stuck so far down the draw, I think if a person was to drag it out do some repairs I think this one would still be drivable. Besides the visible damage, all the tires are still holding air, the radiator is missing but the motor still turns. On another note, I forgot to take pics of the plyboard floor...... :rotf: Anybody want anything off of this? Please no morals or ethics, I think we kicked that one enough.

For our trucks. $$$???

BTT Anyone?

Since you said you have an AW4 going in sometime in the future, If It was me I would make sure it was full call it good. That is unless I was having shifting issues, but by then an oil change would probably be a waste of time and money anyway. You also said "flush it with some synthetic....." IMHO - Waste of money, synthetic stuff is expensive to be using as a "flush". If you really must for peace of mind, change it with cheap 80-90 call it good, anything more than that and you aren't really extending it's life by anything worthwhile.

Myself, I used the centering ball rebuild kit which was about half the cost of a whole new centering ball assy. It was kind of a b**** getting the old race out, I used a Dremmel tool (very carefully) to cut a slot in the old race to get it out. To me it was worth the effort as I did not have to buy a whole new centering ball assy.

Probably not the U-joints themselves, the squeel usually comes from the centering ball in the double cardan joint needing lubed or rebuilt as seen here.http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/drivesh ... haft-5.htm