64 Cheyenne

Head gasket Cracked head

If budget is a big concern then I suggest looking in a reputable? :dunno: JY. The 4.0 is known to run 300k miles, easy. My 87 knocks on start up, occasionally take it to 4k rpm, still hanging in there. Find a motor, see if they will warranty it for any amount of time, if it smokes or knocks after install, get a different one from them or get your money back. In any case, a decent JY won't have a problem with letting you pull the pans to inspect the internals. Lots of goo or carbon - bad, clean decent looking internals probably means regular oil changes and taken care of. I think you should be able to find a decent 4.0 for 3-4 hundred $ just take your time don't buy the first one you find. Do your homework, shop around, pull the pans. Your a smart kid, you'll do fine with a JY motor.

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... =2&t=20758 I did this on the Chief, top part only, works great.

If you went months and no problems I doubt that there was anything physically messed up by the shop. My best guess is the quality of parts that were used either by you (Master Cylinder) or them (Slave Cylinder) I've heard many times on this board especially when it comes to internal slaves, to only use the Daimler Chrysler assembly's. Do I agree with this, the cost no, quality yes. Why? because currently I'm limping around in the 88 with a cheap internal slave that leaks down (+/- 4k miles). I tried saving money, now I get to pull the tranny again. No more internals for me, I have an external in queue for next time. I wish I could say the line was my problem, guess I'll take a closer look, hope that it is.

You gotta watch them Montana cowboys. They're real killjoys albeit smart, intelligent killjoys. You meant indians.......didn't you Jim? :rotf:

This post should answer some of your questions. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4259&start=0 Plug the specified line at the front valve , disconnect both lines at the load sensing valve (rear) to eliminate it. Find out which line now has pressure to it, then plumb your brake line from the axle to it. This will eliminate a lot of problems and is easy to do. BTW what's an inet class? And what does it have to do with run on sentences and poor grammar?

:agree: Hint: Having to decipher a persons post makes others less willing to help.

Couple of places you might find useful info like a FSM or sensor diagnostics. http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech.html http://www.lunghd.com/On_Site_Tech.htm

Worse comes to worse, put an XJ tank in the bed (temporary). It's been done before.

I'm not trying to be smart, dash lights arent dimmed? Brake light, try replacing the bulb or checking for juice at the socket.

I'm not trying to be smart, dash lights arent dimmed? Brake light, try replacing the bulb or checking for juice at the socket.

IMO, bad idea, no relay for the fan itself, lots of amps going through a circuit not designed for that amount. Problems, maybe, maybe not. Myself, I'd do it right the first time, then not have to worry about it causing other problems later. Without researching the relays, fuses, switches for the lights you might have have enough currant capacity in that circuit, or maybe not. I know you said you were going to have major electrical done in 3 weeks, but what if?

:agree:

Which bulb? Front parking light? The sockets on these are problematic and frequently cause problems. Here is the DIY on fixing them viewtopic.php?f=9&t=26001&hilit=socket+replacement As Jimoshel said, a multimeter is your best friend and can be had for cheap example: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsea ... multimeter Suggest use your multimeter check your front turn signal hot pins in the sockets for continuity to ground, if so maybe replace socket. Lastly I suggest you get a handle on your spaghetti wiring mess. Worse comes to worse, do the HO conversion to match your motor. Here is a link to a 88 FSM viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12517&hilit=factory+service+manuals I know the 88 electrical manual is around here or on the net, couldn't find the link, all else fails I could try send you a copy of the one I got on my computer.

Every now and then I use a little bit of spray on white lithium grease on the mechanical latches. For the cable, when I change the engine oil I put a few drops of clean engine oil on the end of the cable, let gravity move it into the cable, works smooth like butter. don't use WD-40 for this, it is not a suitable lubricant.

I like the wire method, as seen in my rear window how to. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19487 Pretty certain you should be able to pry the rubber gasket out like the back window.

Manual tranny? Leaking clutch MC? Corroded fuses? Burnt fuse? Bad intermittent wiper relay?

Many people say that a tcase DB is not necessary on an MJ, the DBs were intended for the XJs which had shorter wheel base. On another note; think about this, when you use DBs to decrease your rear DL angle you are effectively increasing the front angle. IMO MJs don't need TC drops, stock is better.

This is a cool site lots of info, I'm sure I'll spend a little time there later today.

Yup, can be had off of an XJ also.

I'm not trying to be snide or smart a** ed, but you are half way through replacing a problematic tranny. An upgrade is always a good choice for the goat. Suggest thinking about it. Not that hard to do if you got this far.

Crappy fog lights won't cause a problem unless you are drawing current through the factory switch. The factory switch isn't designed to run that many amps through it. If you want to control fogs with/through the factory switch I suggest using a relay as seen here http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm BTW aux lights should always be run through a relay, not using a relay is just plum lazy and asking for problems. You can use the factory lighting circuit to trigger a relay thereby getting the same results as going through the switch but without the current load, study the diagrams. If you did run straight power through the switch, I would suspect either switch could be burnt. Myself I would kind of lean more towards the high beam switch because it is cycled much more often. I think the switch is adjustable by loosening it's mounting screws and moving it up or down on the column. Far as the switch from a 92, best bet is to compare. I'm guessing that a GM switch might work from the same era because it is a Saginaw column. Not sure though.

Crank Position Sensor I have to start the Chief in neutral, The slave cylinder leaks down won't allow for a start in gear. I need to replace the slave cylinder to fix it. (not getting done till I pull the external setup from my 95 XJ donor). BTW pushing the clutch in on start is always a good habit, no matter the circumstance.

Check this out from JP Magazine http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/ ... index.html

Went to my "bookmarks" file on the board here, and here it is: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19567