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i'd start with a serious tune up. after that, check into the fuel pump and have the fuel pressure tested. it could be a bad fuel pump even if it's new in the box. it could be working but not puting out the pressure needed for highway driving.

i have alot of health problems so i have alot of medical bills coming in. i check them over pretty well because i have had things billed that should'nt be. when they cancel a test they frequently still bill it. i also, and this is a good tip for any medical bill someone receives, i send it back and ask them to check thge coding and send it back through. it happens alot that they just didn't code it right. i hate medical bills. i wish they weren't such a big part of my life. :ack:

i got my bill today for when i colloapsed on the bike path back in november. $4900!!! add the ambulance ride and it comes to $6300! that's outrageous. healthcare is to out of control. :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: again, not a political statement. not trying to start a debate, just complaining about a bill. :grrrr:

check the reset on the disposal. it could be as simple as that. that may make the day better. :ack:

fargo nd-last night 2.99 for the cheap stuff by my house, but most places are 3.09

(in evil voice) with this i shall take over the world!!!!!

thanks. the jeep needs a new switch for the fog lights, i assume. the lights quit working but will work on and off if you filick the switch on and off a few times. i don't want to offer to spend the time out in 20 below weather if it's going to take long.

how does the center section of the dash that holds the heater controls, radio and switches come apart from the rest of the dash. it's on a 98 xj. not mine so i can't look at it to see. i think i'll offer to fix if it's not too bad and won't take long, it's too cold out to spend much time on it.

i carry a cheap one in the vehicles just in case i get a flat. i hate to use those crappy jacks that come with vehicles. i rather use a cheap floor jack. i don't use them for regularly lifting vehicles for working on stuff though.

i just grab the bumper with one hand and move the jackstands in place with the other. :brows: (sorry. i felt a mandatory smart a$$ comment was needed) :yes:

first let me say that i think the jack stands are far more important than the jack. they are what really should hold the vehicle up and should be used at all times, even for small stuff. spend money on the stands first, then the jack. :smart: i have a craftsman professional model i love. it's been heavily used for 10 years or so and never let me down. i've never had to add oill until this week. it has the 1 pump to frame and lowers as slow as you want. it fits under my audi in almost all places as well. it is heavy but moves around pretty easy. i can't stress how much i have used this jack, and it's been awesome fro me. the "tubular pieace with a pad ontop" is an exstension that can be bought for many jacks. i think that harbor freight has offered 1 at 1 time. torin makes a pretty good jack as well. they sell them through other brands band usually last. they're not even close to my crafstman imho though. when i had my shop i had 3 jacks at all times made by other companies and they failed every year or so. these were used almost all day 6 days a week (16 hours a day) and were beat to hell, so that wasn't actually too bad. i bought a craftsman (the model i have) and it was still working when i left several years later. i did also by a jack at napa for the shop that lasted quite awhile. i have a buddy that bought a blue low profile aluminum jack from harbor freight that he loves. i've used it with him and it's pretty nice. i don't know how durable it will be though. it doesn't seem like it would make it as long for my uses, again imho.

my first thought is vw. that also brings in the audi. a mercedes would be a great bet,and an isuzu might not be bad, but these options won't be cheap with all the stuff you're going to need. if cost is no concern, it's a great idea. if you really want to concider this, go european. they do some cool things with little diesels across the pond. it's pretty incredible what the make work in what. there are some great european mags that cover some of these things (many available at barnes and nobles). i'm guessing oyu're in canada so you can probably get them there. sounds bad, but don't even bother with american stuff, europeans have been doing these types of mads for alot longer. they even make many of our vehicles (generic us car statement) over there IN diesel. i beleive they have even made diesel cherokee(i think it was made by another company other than jeep though) and that would be an easy swap. check stuff from over seas out.

sounds like a vacuum leak that may be from a loose, not broken, vacuum line. another thing, it could be a bad coil. if the coil is bad, it can be affected by heat, vibration, etc, that can cause a intermitent problem. if you want to replace the coil, just buy an accel rather than oem. the oem 1 will cost more and puts out less. the accel coil can be had for 30-45 bucks.

agreed, the computer will not work with the new engine. you need the old mechanics (minus block) or the new electrics to make the switch work. i'd go new engine, new electrics, but they are about the same amount of work imho. another option would be to swap another motor completely in. say a built 401. maybe a sbc. how anout a blown chevy big block. hey, if you gota change, change. :banana:

it should be under your dash under the steering wheel. depending on the year it probably has no cover and is easy to see. no the fuel pump will not work with a bad ground. the wrong fuel pump could work for a short time but die due many reasons like it's pumpin too slow or too fast. there would be a difference in performance but if you're new to the truck you may not notice. such a situation could cause a pump to burn out. if it's the wrong size pump, there may be a modification to the wiring harness near the pump to make it work. you can check the actual performance of the pump by checking the fuel output at the tbi. this will not tell you if the pump isn't working for sure though. if the filter is plugged, there may be no or little fuel. take the line off at the fuel filter (then you leak fuel into a bucket, not in the engine compartment) then turn the key. no fuel-bad pump. fuel-good pump, plugged filter. if oyu need a pump, check out rockauto.com or autohausaz.com. i get parts from both of them alot and have gotten a great deal from each on different fuel pumps. just an fyi if you do need to replace it. keep us informed with you problem.

just my thoughts on this. $5-700 is fair. the truck needs alot, but could be cleaned up and sold with some improvements. unfortunately, 1 of the must do's is the tires. buying a set of 31's is going to run you alot and take over any profit you might have. the jeep could be worth something if you can find someone who knows what it is, but that will take time. it would be a great fixer. one thing i would worry about that hasn't been mentioned is that the tires are such different sizes front to back. the smaller fronts roll at a higher ratio than the back. it's just like running a differnt set of ring and pinions in the front. there may be no damage if it hasn't been run in 4wd or run to long this way. the main thing would be extra wear on the front diff and other front end parts. most likely it won't matter. chances are the po or new seller had a nice set of tires on it pulled them to sell, putting whatever junk he could find and the tires have only been used for test drives. as a detailer, the interior can be cleaned up some, but the body is shot and needs some work. don't expect the interior to come out spotless, the dash and plastics will clean up pretty good if you know what your doing. the carpet is probably not going to come out with out some serious staining left. the lift is probably just a whatever brand and not rancho. if it's a flip, he's just not in the know of what is there. it's not a big deal anyway as long as the lift is installed right. he has no idea about the engine since he's calling it a 258 and not the 4.0. this shows he knows nothing about this truck, another sign he is just flipping it. i would hold on it and offer him lessin a week. most times when people are flipping, they don't want to sit on it long. if you come in now and give him a low ball he's going to be pissed and won't want to sell it to you later at any price. if oyu want to offder now, just go with 700 or so and explain why. if you wait a week, he'll take much lower. whatever you do, do not let him see you checking it out again until your ready to offer him lower. if he sees you checking it out he's going to think you're really interested and will go at a higher price. i have flipped many, many, many cars and sell cars for other people for a fee. i have some idea of what the seller is thinking. i'm sure others who fil will agree. if you want to keep it buy it at 700 and get it before someone else. flipping it is another story. let us know.

ok. so no one was specific about the coolant level, or for what i'm looking at. should the coolant level fluctuate WHILE the engine is at operating temp and running, say going up and down in the "test tool" that was used (coolant going higher and lower in the "funnel")? would the fluctuation happen due to no pressure in the cooling system due to the lack of the radiator cap? also, could this fluctuation be caused by a bad thermostat? this is an important question for what is going on. i'll explain whne i get a few more opinions. i don't want to influence any of the opinions/answers. please chime in. it doesn't matter how experienced you are or if you know, give your thoughts. :help:

ok. this is not a jeep specific question rather an all makes question. here's the deal. i know quite abit about vehicles and concider myself a pretty good mechanic. with that said, i think i know very well what the answers to these questions are but a mechanic is trying to convince me sifferntly(trying to get more money). so i will not say what i think i know, i will ask you to tell me. please let me know what you think. (i should let you know i took it in to be fixed cause it's to frickin cold out to fix it myself since the jeep and the audi occupy the garage). here we go: a pressure test of the cooling system testing for leaks, pressure, and radiator cap pressure- the test should tell you of any leaks and if the radiator cap is good. the test will not tell if there is a head gasket leak. a water pump gets weak and does not function properly over time even though it is circulating coolant. an addapter attached to the radiator cap location (looks like a radiator cap with a funnel in the middle) can tell the cooling system is flowing properly. when the coolant goes up in the funnel, then goes down(engine at operating temperature), there is a problem with the cooling system. the coolant flow and level should always remain the same when the engine is runnnig. a temp gauge that goes up and down while driving is a sign of a bad thermostat. so let meknow what you think. pleez!!! :D

i'd say fuel pump. i think the ground is behind the right rear taillight as well. the fuel pump will hum or wine. the best way to listen for a fuel pump, inho, is to lay under the tank and have somneone turn the key. it should hum a little when the key is turned on and when it first starts to crank, you should be able to hear it. once you're cranking the engine it gets hard to hear it over the starter. you can try hitting the bottom of the tank as stated before. sometimes rocking the vehicle around a bit then hitting the bottom of the tank will work to help give it a little incentive to start.

i agree. if they ask you can tell them they are for an '88 ford 150. i've had a few places deny to put anything but oem size on a vehicle so it would't surprise me if walmart did. if you take them in off the vehicle there should be no problem.

wow. those tires have been around since the early nineties. i've had them on a few vehicles. i even had a set on an isuzu that i took to moab for mountain biking. i took it on some trails and played on the slickrock. they preformed pretty well. ice traction was low so i'd advise sipeing them. that can help with rocks as well. you can't beat the price for such a high quality tire. here, walmart lists them at $65. not bad for a goodyear.

a true all around a/t tire is the bfg all terrains. that's the way i would go. there's a reason it's a top tire, it performs. every set i've had have outperformed any other tire. i currently have som firestone wilderness a/t's on my stock suburban hunting rig. when they wear out (there about 70%) i'll be getting bfg's. i will say though, the firestone's haev performed surprisingly well. i've put them through rocks, mud, sand, ice, rain, snow, you name it and i haven't had anything to complain about. they have enough traction to pull a tractor out. still, it's bfg's next.

i'm surprised it hasn't been asked yet (unless i missed it) but what do you want to do with them? tread design depends on your needs. if your just looking for a tire that looks good, that opens alot of tires up. if you want a tire for dirt, mud, whatever, your tire choices are narrowed. decide where you want the tires to perform and take it from there.

tonights episode is from moorhead, the city next to fargo and where we just moved from. in fact theold house they moved for the other family was moved to the end of our old block! it's pretty cool seeing your old neighborhood on tv. the whole makeover thing was huge here last summer. it's neat talking wiht people that worked on it. we drive by the new house all the time. i'm not a huge follower of the show but had to watch this one. pretty cool. :thumbsup:

we're in the middle of another big blizard so we're stuck inside. so :cheers: HAPPY NEW YEAR FROM NORTH DAKOTA!!!! :cheers: