phenryiv1

I could not find the 97+ door handle conversion writeup in either Tech or the DIY forum. Help?

Thanks. So that is the stock yellow paint from a Plymoth Prowler?

I don't have a problem with the $30 price of the Rusty's Air Tube, but the $16 shipping charge just makes me cringe, as I ship a lot of crap and cannot figure out how the rate should be even close to $16. That being said, are there any other tube intakes (eBay, other vendors, etc.) that we can use in conjunction with a K&N or K&N-type filter? I found this on eBay (I HATE using an eBay link, but it was the best I could find.): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1988-198 ... ccessories It says that is works for an 88 (which is what I have). Another one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1989-199 ... ccessories (Lists 89-96 as applications.) BTW- I spoke with a rep at Rusty's, which sells the same tube for HO and Renix motors. I asked about the additional tubes and he said that they just get disconnected, which sounded odd, but there were not complaints on here, so I suppose it works. Thoughts there?

My driver's side door was not opening and closing properly (well, more accurately, was not staying open properly), so I grabbed the closer/opener mechanism from an XJ at the JY and figured that I woudl do what I needed to fix the door. I had not looked at the door enough to determine the problem, but I grabbed the whole mechanism, figuring that if I had the whole thig, I could replace what I needed. I opened up the door panel, removed the speaker, and found this in the bottom of the door: I am guessing that the problem is explained by the fact that the opener/closer was in 3 peices. :thumbsup: A few bolts later, and I was golden. I also went to the JY (AGAIN) this week and had them pull an updated oil filter adapter and the oil temp sensor. I wanted to be able to run the newer oil filters, and wanted the 90* bend. Since I needed to replace my leaking O-rings, I figured that this was the time to go ahead and switch out the adapter and bolt. I would have pulled it myself, but I had my daughter with me.

Any whole-vehicle shots?

Does anyone know whether that is Solar Yellow, or a custom color?

Seeing this makes me REALLY want the truck in yellow. I am still torn as to whether to paint the lower doors/bed black (a la the 90s XJ Sports) or to do all yellow like the truck above. I do really like the black flares, regardless. My other thought is about the grille. I have seen some body-colored grilles that looked really good, and some that make it look like an import wanna-be. I need some photoshop skills!

Some people feel the negative connotation of yellow is enough to keep it off their vehicles. :dunno: What is the negative connotation of yellow? Does it make people think of bees?

I doubt that you will need to swap out your LCAs with ~3" on the front.

Is'nt the T100 a little bigger than the MJ?So their shocks would be valved for more weight? Yes, the T100 is bigger and heavier, thus the shocks for it are valved to control a stronger (stiffer) spring). I was thinking that once I add leaves, I would need the stronger valving to control that, but now that I may not lift, I am second-guessing the use of the stronger valving.

Subscribing. Comanchekid- I replied to your PM.

So I saw a Solar Yellow XJ on the road this week, and I have always liked the XJ in yellow. I was thinking about my MJ, which is in BAD need of paint to begin with. I was planning to repaint it in the original dark red, with JD Blitz Black down low (like the early 90's XJ Sport models). I was also going to paint my mirrors, bumpers, grille, drip rails, etc. with the Blitz Black. Now that I think about the MJ, I sort-of feel like doing something crazy with it and painting it with the John Deere Yellow, as it is a similar (hard) enamel product, like the Blitz Black (but glossy). Factors: The MJ is a project vehicle, and will never be my daily driver (I use it just for tooling around town.). I don't know that I would ever have a yellow vehicle as my DD, so this may be my chance to have a yellow vehicle. I will never sell it, as it has great sentimental value to me, so killing resale with a color-change is a non-issue. My daughter LOVES yellow cars. Sure, she is only 2, but she loves trucks (particularly this one) and loves yellow cars. Doing the door jambs, between the bed and the cab, etc. is not an issue, as I can afford the downtime. I thought about doing the underhood and the space between the cab i and the bed in blitz black, no matter what color I use on the main body. Pitfall: I may get sick of it. Thoughts? Any pictures of Yellow MJs?

I'm pretty sure the coupler slips on the filter.. Than clamps down. Well must of those types of filters do that. I don't see any difference in this one. I hope to get mine sometime soon.. It is the fluted neck that has me worried. If you look at the edelbrock, it looks like the neck is machined aluminum. You COULD end up using a 3" coupler over that very small flat area and then using a clamp to tighten it down, but if you look at most cylindrical filters, the neck of them is rubber and you slide that (with a hose clamp) over the rigid 3" tube, then tighten down. Raw: Installed: If you look at the edelbrock filter, that neck is already rigid, meaning that you would have to put a coupler OVER the base. EDIT: It looks like there is a coupler and 2 clamps that come with it: I called edelbrock and they confirmed that it includes a coupler. I ordered 2, just to have one as a spare, since I don't like the thought of downtime when I wash and re-oil them.

In anticipation of a small (1-2") lift, I went with Monroe Monromatic Plus shocks on the rear. The listed application fro them is a toyota T100 pickup with the SR5 package. They are longer than stock, but I have not had any issues at stock height. They were a direct fit. If I had to do it again, the rears seem a bit harsh. I am actually waffling on the idea of lifting it at all, and if I decide not to, I will probably swap out the rears for a pair of sensatracs that are correct for the MJ. Specs: 1993 Toyota T100 4x4 SR5 V6 Monroe Monro-Matic Plus (32270). 15.125" compressed and 25" extended.

Has anyone gotten theirs in yet? In looking at the picture, I cannot figure out how that filter will attach to a 3" tube. Where does it clamp on, or where does the hose clamp go to mate it with a 3" coupler? Looking at the picture, I am scared to order.

Yes.

Any help on this question?

Are these cleaned like a K&N, or do they get tossed and replaced when they get dirty?

[insert Guiness voice]BRILLIANT![/end voice]

I need to change my filter adapter O rings anyway...maybe I should go ahead and change the fitting... Any part numbers?

When I was very young, my grandfather had a J10 in that exact color. It was 4x4 and had no A/C, but it was a great truck. He later replaced it with a tan one with A/C. We were cutting firewood at his hunting camp and accidentally dropped a tree on the bed. This was not a small tree- it was a 60-70' pine with a 10-12" base. It hit the bed of the truck at a 90* angle, about 1/2 way up the tree. We cut the tree up, loaded it in the truck and drove home. My grandmother never noticed the (very small) dent that the falling tree left in the top rail of the bed. It is one of my favorite memories of my time with my grandfather, who passed away in December (and whose next truck I am now restoring). If I could find an old J10- even if it was not HIS actual truck- to wrench on after I "finish" with the MJ update, I would jump at it.

Looks like a great starting point. The truck looks a lot better without all of the factory decals on the side (what was Jeep thinking in the late 80's with those things?). Did you do the underhood cleaning by hand, or with a pressure washer?

Does the Mopar MO-090 oil filter fit on an 88 with Renix? I have used ot on past 4.0 motors, but never a Renix. I have one (MO-090) in the closet and need to change my oil, but if it does not fit, I need to go grab another filter before draining the motor. I searched, but no results for "MO-090" were found.

I believe you are mistaken. Most modern cars in my experience use some sort of pendulum mechanism in the door post that locks the belt only when the vehicle is decelerating sharply. The old ratchet type locks to which you are referring were used back in the 60s and 70s but they were prone to breaking. Just checked with the guru at my dealership. He confirms that the XJ/MJ belts are inertia reels, not ratchets. My Subie locks up if I lean forward to check over my shoulder when merging. Maybe it is really sensitive.

No insult taken. Safety first. :cheers: I need to dig through the boxes from the car seats to find them. With the seatbelts in the Legacy and the Pilot, they are not needed. I suppose the whole point of them was applications like the MJ- pull it out all of the way, lock it in place with the clip, and fasten.