Ed in North Ga.

This - if you havent figured it out from the posts yet, is a very common problem on the AX15- it can be lessend to some extent by using a heavy gear lube- but warmth seems to be the trick. Ive always assumed that the syncro is just not lining up correctly- maybe its just not spinning as fast as the countershaft- Light weight gear lube made it worse on mine- but heavy weight gear lube lessened the pressure to ease it to second... Ive always just barely held it against the gate an let it slide in to second- or jam shift to third- fact is, mines always been like that....and I can't remember a MJ Ive rode in that the owner didnt mention "seems hard to go into first early in the mornings for some reason". drive on-

sure. Theres an evil little slide spring with a "C" fulcrum that sits inside the column just under that cover- it "pressurizes" and centers the stalk- if it falls out, fails, or its a monday, it won't center...and flop around. Still works, its just funky. The end of the stalk connects/slides into the multiswitch itself. look for the link here somewhere on fixing the tilt column. Within that site, it shows the stalk removal, which is early in on fixing the tilt- you won't have to take near the stuff off to get to it...but it sure is fun.

same here- Ive used the blu locltite on those things maybe 3 times in 200,000- its a real pain,,, but its easy once youve done it twice- Ive only done the 2 or 3 exposed- never have touched the fourth bolt.

shoot- I`d just throw in an upgraded alternator, and go for a duel battery setup-

everyone else summed up my thoughts, except for a TPS thats gone screwy or an IAC valve thats gone to the nuthouse- That coolant sensor would be my first stop, but I`d check the TPS for kicks as well....might even test that MAP sensor for fun. The RENIX system is pretty easy to work with(not on)- isolate the problem and test everything- you get used to it after awhile...it never seems to be anything dratic, just hard to find- a vacuum leak- which is Uber common on ours- is ALWAYS the first suspect.

Yeah his truck is sick! I'm thinking something a little more streetable though. Gonna build a nice little stroker and surprise some folks at redlights! Have you found someone that makes drop spindles, or is that just theory at this point? If I go the ZJ coil route up front, would JY coils, or new factory height coils be better? I'm thinking JY since they'd already be "broke in" Bahhh- if I can't find spindles, I work at a machine shop. Expensive but do-able. Ive even played with the idea of reverse arms- this jeep already had airbags underneath the front end for god knows what reason, so adjusting height isnt a problem. Like all lowering projects, ride quality go`s out the window if it isnt just right...an I aint drove anything "just right" for a long time- more intrested in tuns and quick takeoffs than bounceing over pebbles.

Duuuuude, if you got MT spring packs back there, you'll have no problem unloading those in less than 10 secs when you are ready. In fact.........Dibs!! LOL Seriously, let me (us) know when you're ready to pull those. How many miles on them? Do you do a lot of hauling? I got them by accident- I lost a spring eye on the OEM one, and ordered some used from the wrecker/recycler out in washington- JWs?- he had both the 1 tons and half tons, and plently of them- got them for $69 each. I really didnt need the extra ability, but it did give the rear 3 more inches lift...rides like snot unloaded. :headpop: put 50lbs in the bed and presto, smooth.

88 :wavey: , all I did has hack saw the valve out of the piece and re-connect the hose. It now looks like a a 3way pipe connector that Ed in North Ga. talked about - good idea by the way Ed :clapping: oddly enough, Ive given away more of my spare parts, than Ive needed to use....I dunno if its upkeep or just plain taking care of your vehicle, but geezzz, some people have no idea on what a "spare" anything is.

How much are you dropping it, and what route did you decide to go? I have decided nothing...yet. I had thought I had it sold....but if I did sell it, then I`d have to go find another. ;) I`m thinking lighter coils, or drop spindles- probably have to swap out the one ton springs in back for lightweights, and then limit straps- I`m unitrested in comfort....but I am worried about the local possum population and fiberglass/urethane damage.

That my friend, is one of the fabled "Archer Brothers Racing" body kits- that I have searched for, for years to no avail- and no, the Archers have no intension of remaking it...There was a man in NY that did have a line on a few kits....never heard back from him, and I have "heard" the chevy S-10 kits can be "retrofitted" with some work...I think a universal kit may be the best option. My 89MJ Elim is about ready to be dropped and I wll be fabbing a body kit at that time.

I'm probably wrong, but- from what I remember, the valve opens with vacuum- if theres vacuum-the waters flowing to the heaterbox. The vacuum itself is only "off" if the control on the HVAC is off- any other position, the waters flowing(and even then, I think some sneaks past). the temp is controlled off a vent flap inline within the heater assembly- anyways, thats the way it worked on my old 89XJ- think of it this way, if you turn the AC on, you can control the cold to heat- if thats the case, the heaterbox is flowing hot water, even with the AC on. I always carried a 3way pipe connector, for cases just like what happened to you.

Ive seen two with an overhead/forward plate like that- One had a clock/inside outside thermometer/trip meter, the other was a police XJ- had the lights wired into a panel between the visors and backwards- red/black/green/brown is usually/normally found in trailer harness setups-its pretty universal. It could have been a tow vehicle with the light system built into the overhead-

mines always been a front bulb- the goo is gone, and its just needs cleaning- its called ghosting, the turn signal/s kinda glow when you hit the brakes, or at night when the headlights are on. Last time it was my drivers side running lamp- remove, clean out accumulatied crap- replace-good for another little while.

Every once in a blue moon, I run across this problem on a jeep forum- humor me, and try this- its worked for many. go out, and with the engine off and you comfortable in the seat, put both feet on the brake pedal, and try to bend that sucker- stand on it till your back hurts, and push alittle more- inside the master cylinder is a sliderod- anytime you release enough pressure in the system, the rod go`s past the rear hole in the metering block...and does not return- there is a mystical tool that is supposed to help the rod not do this...Ive never seen it. Anyways, while your standing there pushing for all your worth, listen for a click- like a snapping noise- thats the rod clearing the hole- its the only way I know of, sans "special tool", to reset the metering block in jeeps and fords. hollar back if it works- do understand however, its hard to get an MJ/XJ stopped period, without that double diaphram- the brakes on these are marginal fresh off the lot- The rear proportioning valve arm should be level (if working at all)- lower means more front brake, higher means more rear brake- mines tied straight up- I like lots of rear brake.

Know how to diagnose your jeep. Get a self-ranging multimeter. :thumbsup: know the OHMs values for the CPS, the IAC, the TPS, the Ballast Resistor....don't pay money to shotgun fix it, TEST it before replacing it. For the Renix owners, a lot of those values can be found using this site: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm learn how to clean the throttle body and IAC bore, and reset the TPS to spec . Understand an old MJ will REQUIRE you to clean the throttle body, or suffer. learn how to clean the bulkhead connector. Carry in the glovebox, 1 spare CPS, 1 spare fuel line quick connect kit (fuelrail to hose repair kit/MOPAR), 1 ignition switch, 5 feet of wire +/- and tape, and at the minimum 2 pipe connectors with straps. USE IT- don't let it sit, and don't baby it. Let it sit too long, you will suffer the consequences....Jeep MJs hate to be left alone...you were warned. understand the 4.0L, when properly used past 200,000 IS a carbon creating monster- accept blowby- its a fact of life. and always remember, the volt gauge LIES.

I actually had called hesco a few years back- although they had heard of the kits, no one at that time knew where to get one-- its been awhile, might be time to do a re-call. I`m still thinking an s-10 kit could retrofit to an MJ- There was a "universal kit" for trucks we used years back-can't find that either. I`m not setup for doing molds...but I may end up doing just that. :waving:

Ive asked this over the years on many forums- thought I`d try here, cause ya never know... years ago before nascar trucks started from the scca, there was a company called Archer Brothers racing- who ruled the track in MJs in the 87/88 scca season-anywho, they used to have a racing body kit for MJs, full front airdam, side skirts, and rear pan- a few enterprising companies copied it- stillen and godfathers comes to mind- but since around 92, no one has seen or heard of these kits.... http://www.archerracing.com/history.htm Archer Brothers no longer has said kit-nor are they likely going to part with the molds... I did know of a guy in New York who had a few, but he never contacted me back- anyone have one of these mystical kits, or know 100% for sure which other kit will retrofit? I thought an S-10 chevy would, but have been told it won't....

well...the switch is a PITA to see for sure- its on the lower column, above the floorboard on top and left- the right side is the wire loom connect to the multiswitch (horn/turn signal/hazard,ect)- that runs up the steering column- its a standard GM style loom, flatwire with wide plug. to get to it, well....theres two ways. You can go upside down, or sideways from the pasenger side- either way your heads gotta be down there where your feet would be....and it sucks. If you go ahead and buy a new switch, it`ll have the directions inside (or search the net-bound to be out there somewhere) but without them, playing with that switch can be dangerous or fun...depending on your mood- it IS possible the starter may bump....ect,ect...but, without removal, you can't really look at it to see if its toasted either-

Generally, renix`s are finiky if you don't use them. They like to be run, preferably every day, to last a long time. If you let one sit for a month, all kind of gremlins poke their heads up. First thing- the gas comes out- its not good enough to burn anymore- in a renix. Drain the tank, fill with a gallon of the fresh stuff with some stabil in it - second- full throttle body clean out- pull the IAC and clean the pintle, pull the TPS and check the Ohms- clean the bore of the IAC pintle seat, and then clean the bore of the Throttlebody- there will be a carbon ring where the butterfly sits, and its now gummed up from sitting- AND clean the back side of the butterfly plate- I use Tolulene and a toothbrush. Third, remove all the air from the fuel rail at the schreader valve, and check the backside vacuum port on the fuel pressure regulator- if theres gas on the vacuum side, replace. You may end up with tank gunk- leave one sit too long and water mysteriously appears in a tank...worse than that are "friends" who think you need some sugar or dirt in the tank...such nice people- luck to ya-

it should be possible to swap in an XJ pull brake- holes already there- just need the main wire to equalizer and an xj assembly

well...yes. point taken though. I`m Ed in North Ga in just about ever forum Ive ever joined...makes it easy to remember.

your tilt column is the clue- inside the column, is the rod that go`s down to the ignition switch- said switch is mounted with a small screw that rides in a slot on the switch so its adjustable- The switch itself is a slide- the rod slides it up and down off the keyswitch turning- "IF" the switch on the lower column is loose, or worn out, it won't make a good contact when you turn the key- I don't have the instructions handy on setting it, but its fairly easy- something like "the rod has to be in the 3ed position on the slide when the key is in ingnition on position(probably not right, but something like that)- OR- if you were like me ontime, and have lots of gadgets, and used the ignition as a power source to turn your junk on, the switch is probably melted off the blue wire- just enough to make life fun. --PS: automatics/manuals have different switchs. Cheap insurance to carry a spare beside your spare CPS in the glovebox.

Ive still got the originals in mine, but the last MJ I did that on, I used simple walmart bubble style interior lamps- you can get`m with or without a switch on the base.

That looks more like what I call the underhood ignition switch/dristribrution box- behind the battery/in front of the relays- if old enough, ya- but most charging issues are old batteries, old alternators, or the evil thin wire between that needs upgrading. remember- the dash guage is wrong- it lies.

Ha, you should see the new toyota wiring, and I'm sure there are more that use the same thing but the switched wire is around a 22 gauge wire. noooo way- I won't touch any of the new stuff. I got out just in time. give me the usual 12 wire plug and I can do it in a few seconds- when they start wiring the hvac/airbag/ect through that harness I head out the door.