jeepcoma

I've got aussie lockers front and rear and am very happy with the setup. I use my truck for street only, including ice and snow. I'd say that normally locking the rear first is the way to go, but if you're going to swap out axles sometime in the near future I'd start with the front. That way you can keep the same handling manners for street while in 2wd, but switch it into 4wd and have three driving wheels for being stuck in the snow or offroading. That being said, I don't notice any handling issues with having both axles locked, except that if you have any slop in your driveline it'll be much exaggerated when locked. For this reason I wish I had a working CAD for the front (or CAD axle anyway), but I am running a solid axle and 297x joints up front. Any slack in the driveline will need to be taken up before the lockers will disengage, and when they do, the driveline will spring back in the opposite direction and the slack needs to be taken up again: so you can get some clunking going on if you have sloppy joints and bushings and such when turning at full lock. I've driven many excellent handling snow vehicles, and I have to say I really like the feel of the MJ with all four wheels locked. It doesn't give you free reign to drive like an idiot, but it's very predictable. If you've never driven anything it before and just go tearing around the first time it snows, then yeah you'll probably crash and blame it on spooky handling from the lockers, since it's unexpected handling to you. If you're familiar and comfortable with the handing though, you'll learn to feel what it's doing and how to handle it. Personally I'm excited for snow to go driving around again :banana:. Anyway, I don't know why lockers have such a bad rep when it comes to street handling. I'd have to guess most people are just unfamiliar with the handling of a rear-wheel drive vehicle that doesn't have an open rear end, and have never experienced the rear end sliding out, what it feels like before and during, and what to do when it happens. If the only thing you've ever driven is FWD in the snow, just realize that you're going to have a learning curve, and get out there in an empty parking lot and do some donuts and have fun learning about the handling.

60 mph is 60 mph, doesn't matter what gearing you have. It takes a certain amount of power applies to the wheels to overcome the various frictions at that speed, regardless of how you're making or transferring that power. So yes, torque at the wheels will be the same, at any constant speed. A more interesting question is which scenario would accelerate quicker, for that you'd need to know the 4th gear and 5th gear ratio. I'd rather be running 4th gear at 2200 rpm than 5th gear at 2200 rpm if you're routinely accelerating hard at this speed or towing, mountains, stuff like that. 4th as a 1:1 can handle more torque without breaking, any overdrive gear puts a lot more stress on the transmission (think how much stress it puts on your legs when you try to bicycle at a slow speed in high gear).

Have been doing a lot of little fixes and tweaks, but finally got some "big" stuff for my project. Hope to get around to painting the bumper this week.

Hey hornbrod, I figured out how to roll back the electric odometer, but managed to damage the speedometer function (by pulling the needle out too far I think). It took some tinkering to get the odometer wheel correct but once you get the hang of it it's pretty easy. Maybe together we could build a working mileage-correct speedometer. To the OP, I'll run out in a bit and get a picture of my stock cluster.

Pics of that rear swaybar setup? I've been looking for something too.

Wow that is clean! Hopefully mine will look half as nice some day.

Got a package in the mail!! :banana:

Ok thanks for this. I have a problem where if I see a button labeled "do not push", I push it. So now my pillar lights are broken.

Where are you located? I've got a matching F+R 4wd axles for free if you can do a little cleanup work yourself. In any case, for a clean body, even if it doesn't have all the parts you wanted it's always worth it. Far better to start with a clean body and swap a bunch of parts to end up with the truck you want, rather than a truck with the parts you want that needs a lot of body work... Clean '91s are hard to come by so if you've got one you're already ahead of the game :cheers:

It's running great, I did think of both timing chain slop and maybe transfer case chain hitting the housing... same noise in neutral eliminates the Tcase, and it doesn't really sound like timing chain. And if it were the timing chain, does it make sense that the RPM at which the noise occurs is gradually decreasing? It used to happen only near redline, and now it's slowly worked it's way down to 2.8k or so, and even lower when downshifting. A bad clutch would seem to make more sense there. I will try removing the fan assembly though to see if it goes away. I was watching the fan at idle and it seems to wobble a bit, I'm wondering if a balance issue could be causing premature wear or something else. I also read a tip to remove the clutch spring and it bypasses the low-speed part, so I will give that a try too and see what happens. Also while I was out cooking burgers I tried to move the fan by hand, but it was frozen solid. Engine compartment wasn't quite stone cold, but wasn't exactly warm either. Could I have either a non-thermal clutch or a broken clutch that's always engaged? If the fan is warped AND the clutch is bad, an electric conversion is a definite. I remember reading about a Taurus (I think) dual fan being a perfect fit, I'll have to do some searching.

I've been hearing a noise that's been getting progressively more frequent. It started out only audible when I'd rev the engine really high, up to 4k or so. It's a high pitched metallic noise, sort of what a trailer chain being dragged over concrete sounds like. It's been happening at lower and lower RPMs though, and also I've started noticing it when I downshift and drop the clutch somewhat quick, which causes a quick change in RPM. Thought it might have been the belt slipping briefly but it's a new belt and tension is good, no visible cracks or pulley misalignment. With the hood up, I can rev the engine and hear the noise and it seems like it's coming from the fan clutch (don't have a shroud so don't want to stick my head too close), but my temps are perfect and I haven't had any overheating issues (new aluminium radiator helps I'm sure). I've been reading about fan clutch failures and the result is usually overheating, no mention of noises. Once it cools off I'll try the "spin-the-fan-by-hand" method and check if it's obviously bad. Could this be the fan clutch or should I keep looking? What are some replacement clutch options? If I need to replace it I'd be thinking of swapping to an electric fan since I can probably get a nice used shrouded dual fan for about the same price as a new fan clutch (a quick search showed $60!), and it will help power and fuel a bit. Also, reading through the forums, I've noticed a lot of people taking about an auxiliary electric fan; was that only with A/C? I have only the mechanical clutch driven fan.

Had a rock fly up from a car on the highway and crack my windshield :fs1:

Thanks for the link. Mine has been giving me some trouble so this will come in handy I'm sure.

I just so happened to recently replace my factory 4x4 leafs with 3+2 MT springs from Hellcreek. I also took a few pictures... Rear ride height before swap: 10" to the top of the rim Stock vs new MT. Exact same eye-to-eye and height dimensions. MT installed ride height: 11" to the top of the rim Net result: 1" of lift in the rear. The leaf itself isn't giving more lift by dimensional design, but since the spring rate is higher the bed doesn't compress the spring as much, giving an unloaded lift of 1".

Thanks for the updates everyone. Hornbrod, most of my tech data ended up being pulled from posts you made. Glad to see you still agree with it :brows: One thing I'm still interested in is the rear sway bar which you commented on at one point. Looks like it would be a good addition for MT springs with the rest of the upgraded suspension, but only one company ever made a kit for it? Although I do recall (but of course I can't find it) reading about swapping the front swaybar for the ZJ bar and moving the stock MJ sway to the rear and it's a perfect balance. Also something thing I forgot to add that I see all the time, the dual diaphragm booster seems to be a popular swap. Is that from a '95+ XJ?

I'm trying to put together a list of parts I can swap from other Jeeps that will be an improvement over the stock MJ parts. I'm mostly basing the following on posts I've read on this forum, but if anyone can correct or add to the list I think it would be a good starting point for anyone wanting to get better components for street use than stock without spending lots of money on aftermarket upgrades. I'm trying to put together a list for myself of cheap upgrades to replace worn/broken stock parts, but other might find it useful too. I'm building my truck for street use so I don't mind sacrificing off-road capability for on-road performance where I will spend 99.99% of the time. Front sway bar from a V8 ZJ ('97, other years?), get bushings and mounts: thicker than the MJ (1.25" vs 7/8"), better road manners in trade for off-road flex Front coil springs from a V8 ZJ (years?) OR Up-Country XJ coils: a bit stiffer and about 1" (give or take 1/4") higher than stock, it would be a good match for the MT springs I put in the rear in both height and stiffness ZJ (all 93-98) power steering pumps (steering gear box) (reuse MJ pitman arm) 12.7:1 vs. 14.1:1 ratio ZJ pitman arm? (unknown years/models) ZJ tierod? (unknown years/models) Upper control arms from a WJ ('04, other years?): tubular design, (maybe) better bushings Lower control arms from a WJ ('04, other years?): tubular design, better bushings

Dunno about lifts, but I bought the metric tonne springs from them and was impressed by the quality (excellent) for the price. Not cheap, but I'm very satisfied with my purchase.

I've never heard this mentioned, but when dropping the rear end and then putting it back in, is there any way to do an alignment to make sure it's pointed straight and not crabbing? Reason I ask is when I swapped in my D44 I just bolted it back onto the leafs and tighted eveything up and that was that (and retorqued the u-bolts a few times after driving of course). But I had some whining at certain speeds which I'm hoping is the u-joint simply either worn out or incorrect pinion angle (it does drive absolutely perfectly straight though). I've now swapped in some new metric tonne springs and have replacement u-bolts to put it, but I'd like to be sure that I've done everything properly by correctly adjusted the pinion angle and also the side to side tracking. Or is there so little free play available in the tracking that aligning it is a non-issue?

Semi-progress today. The ubolts I ordered from Ruff Stuff Specialties came in but by the time I got home from work it was dark and raining and I had packing to do. But after work today I get home before it was completely dark and managed to get the Jeep off the jacks and sitting under it's own weight, although not drive-able. The RuffStuff u-bolts are nice and beefy and 100% heavy duty, but of course they are much thicker than the old ubolts so step was was drilling out the holes in the plates so they would fit. Did that, and was able to get 3 of the ubolts mounted over the axle and into the plates, but the 4th one is diverging so it'smuch wider at the ends, it is more of a V shape than a U, and there's no way I can squeeze it enough to get it through the holes. I thought maybe I could squash it back into a U with a vice but no luck in a few quick attempts. Anyway it was getting dark and I needed to get something done so I just stuck the old one on there and they're all just finger tight and nothing is really mounted yet but like I said it's off the jack stands and is actually resting the weight of the truck on the springs. Maybe some pics in the daylight tomorrow. I'm leaving for a month for work so I'm kinda bummed I didn't get this done before I left, since I was 99% of the way there last weekend but just didn't plan ahead and have the ubolts before I started. Oh well. It's about 1.5-2" higher in the back now.

You could buy the '85 MJ to go along with it. Then you'd be really unique.

I like mine, I didn't have any issues in the snow and ice with it; soild front axles too no CAD. I actually preferred both lockers in compared to having the front and rears open; it drove better in 2wd with the lockers than in 4wd with both open. 4wd with front and rear lockers is just great. If you're driving faster than conditions allow then sure you might get into trouble with them, but then you're driving like an idiot anyway. They help you get unstuck easier in the snow, they don't help you stop or turn any better. Or maybe if the only thing you've ever driven in the snow is a FWD vehicle and you don't know how to react properly to the rear wiggling around, you might spook and panic the first time. Make sure you go out and practice when it's safe, go to a parking lot and do some donuts, learn what it's like in 2wd and 4wd (it's a lot of fun too). My t-case linkage got hung up one time, I was stuck in 4wd on the pavement and it was horrid. I crept along for about 1/2 mile cringing the whole way until I could safely pull off to the side and pop it out, never want to have that happen again. I would never ever recommend driving in 4wd on the pavement.

Thanks. Called around and found a napa store that's open, none of the stores around here have them in stock and they'd have to ship it in anyway. I think I'll go with the more expensive RuffStuff grade 8 bolts, and get something a little heavier-duty to go with the D44/Metric Tonne combo which I will be abusing. Guess I won't be finishing the swap this weekend though :fs1: Serves me right for assuming I wouldn't have any trouble finding them locally.

I need to replace the u-bolts since I changed springs. I'm looking for 2.75" inner diameter ones for my D44 but no one seems to have them, Autozone, Advance, Napa is closed today... I even tried PepBoys. I can order them online but was really hoping to get my spring swap finished today. Any ideas where I can get these? If I have to order online, are there any preferred brands? The Rubicon Express U-Bolt Kit looks pretty good, $40 ( :eek: ) for all four bolts, washers, and nuts; or Motion Offroad has them $11 each; RuffStuff has some "premium" ones for $12.50 each... worth the price?

Need to go to the hardware store to get new ubolts, but all the hard parts are done. Fighting with the rubber bushing is not fun, the to front mounts took forever and I ended up cutting the bolt off the drive's side. The rear shackles are a pain too because the rubber is frozen so it wants to spring back to the "normal" position, so it's really hard to pull it forward enough to line up with the uncompressed spring. Checking clearance with stock springs... Checking to make sure no one swiped my D44... I took the drums off for a bit more room, noticed this on the passenger side. I don't recall ever having cracked a drum pad, should this be replaced ASAP as a safety concern or is it not really a big deal with drums? It stops great and I don't get any noise, pulling, pulsation, or anything funny from the rear. Stock springs look pretty good after removal, doesn't look like there was any sag. Spring dimensions are the same, which is good, any lift I get in the rear will only be due to the stiffer rate. Once I get it all bolted up I'll see if I need any lift in the front, I think I will try to find some of the stiffer ZJ V8 springs which should be a good balance. And some reinstall pics. Passenger's side in... Both in and waiting to be bolted up.

Haven't been doing much work on the Jeep lately, I've been busy with other stuff but I am heading overseas for work for about a month so I will hopefully get these put in today... Metric tonne springs from hellscreek! They appear to be quality parts. My original springs aren't too bad, it rides pretty nice with the new shocks but you can see from some of the above pictures it was sagging a bit even loaded to only about half capacity (when I had both new axles in there plus tools, air compressor, etc). I got the long bed so I can put a motorcycle in there and close the gate, it will be nice for carting the bike to track days, which is the same reason I wanted the MT springs for the heavier load carrying (plus house construction and all that stuff). One step closer to the perfect Jeep I wasn't able to find! It's better to build it up yourself anyway. More pics and before/after shots when I'm done.