BWMJ

Ive been having some trouble with the MJ pretty much since I bought it. Every once in a while it would act up and hesitate, stumble, etc. Recently I disconnected the EGR system. This seemed to help a lot. For about a week the truck didn't act up and then one day it would hesitate at about 1/4-1/3 throttle and you couldn't give it any more throttle past that or it would just shudder and hesitate. This has happened before, but always cleared itself, and I thought that it was related to the other issue that I was having with the truck starting to hesitate after warm-up to the point I'd have to pull over for a few minutes and it would clear itself (This went away after disconnecting the EGR). Well, the 1/4-1/3 throttle issue hasn't gone away since it started about 5 days ago. This morning I went out to test the TPS as per the instructions I found in numerous places. I got an input voltage of 4.04 volts and an output of -0.78 volts. when I tried to adjust the sensor, the numbers would not change. What's going on? Does this just mean I need a new TPS? Any thoughts are appreciated.

I ran one behind a Ford small-block for about 40k miles. Never had a problem. Supposedly the AX-15 is almost as strong as the 3550.

Yes. Stupid people are everywhere...and unfortunately they are breeding. I work in retail and deal with them every day. And some of them are just so unbelievably dumb, it is amazing that they can eat breakfast without hurting themselves.

I put an 8.8 in my old YJ, and I plan on putting the same axle into my MJ now that the YJ has been completely taken apart. What you'll have to do is weld on new spring perches and shock mounts. Also, if the 8.8 has a flange-style yoke, you'll have to change it to a yoke that will accept a U-joint or get an adapter to attach the jeep U-joint to the ford flange. All of these parts (adapter, perches, shock mounts, U-bolts, and plates) are available from M.O.R.E. and are reasonably priced. The offset of the center-section is no big deal, but the pinion snout of the 8.8 will make your driveshaft about 1" shorter. This was not an issue with the YJ, but I'm not sure if it would be with the MJ. Brake lines will be plug-and-play, but I'd probably take the opportunity to get rid of the load-sensing valve on the rear brakes. The E-brake will require adapter parts (available from M.O.R.E.) or a modification similar to the post above. The width difference of the axle is very small, but if your tires are really close to the inside of your wheel-wells, you may need to space them out. Spacers are about $100 and available from any off-road shop or distributor. This may all sound complicated or expensive, but I did the swap fairly easily for about $550 including the $280 I paid for the axle.

My brother has a 2" spacer lift and a 1" body lift in his TJ and clears 33x12.5 MTs with a nice stance. Cheaply too.

I ran a locked 8.8 in my YJ behind a V8 and a 5-speed with 34" swampers. Never had a problem.

I recently noticed that if I have the heater fan cranking and give the truck a lot of gas, the fan drops down to low speed and then comes back to high when I let off. I've had some issues with this truck stumbling and wonder if this is an indicator of a poor charging system. '89 4.0 auto.

Any time I thread something into aluminum, I use anti-seize. Do the lines go directly into the aluminum housing?

I like my bench. The PO had it re-done so it's pretty comfortable. Plus, being an automatic I don't really need the support that buckets would offer. And, I can legally seat 3.

Just wanna say thanks. I changed the fuel filter and the truck is running better than ever. I'm feeling kinda dumb for not changing it along with the tune-up I did when I first brought it home.

I have a 2.5" Flowmaster 40 laying around that I was thinking about putting on the truck. Definitely gonna put it on now.

Thanks for the ideas guys. The truck has 160k on it, but other than this one issue runs really good. I'm gonna change the fuel filter and if that doesn't work, the O2-sensor. I also have a couple of universal cats, a Gibson muffler, and a Flomaster 40 laying around. Maybe I'll put together a better exhaust.

I'll definitely check this stuff. Thanks. But why would it get worse when it's warmer outside? When it is really could(below 20F), it will rarely act up, but now that we've had some warmer weather it's a constant pita!

OK. I have an '89 Comanche with the renix-controlled 4.0L automatic. When I am driving the truck and I am giving it a good amount of gas for a while at lower rpms, it will start to stutter or miss. I f I let off the gas the revs drop and it runs mint, but as soon as I get on the gas again the stuttering starts and gets bad enough that I will loose all engine power, but the engine never dies, just goes back to idle. Sometimes this clears up in a few seconds, and sometimes I have to pull off the highway and let it run at idle for a few minutes and then it's fine. Also, sometimes if I take off quickly or stomp the gas to pass, the engine will do the same thing, but is fine if I let off a little. This happens at all different rpms and speeds, but it definitely happens more often and worse the warmer the outside temperature gets. So, I don't know what this could be, but where should I start? The truck has new plugs, wires, rotor, cap, air filter, and oil change.

X3 for A.A. I put a 289 in my YJ and A.A. helped me out every step of the way. All their stuff is top notch and they are willing to stay on the phone with you for hours if need be looking through parts lists and schematics to make anything work. Great company to work with.

I want to replace all the vacuum lines on my MJ. Where can I buy a complete set of factory replacements? Am I stuck going to a dealer?

You realize, I hope, that the spacers will do nothing to relieve the rubbing against the lower control arms, and probably nothing about any rubbing at full stuff unless you also extend the bump stops. Yes

I live 3 miles from Clayton Off-road and have seen them in action. Their suspensions are rock-solid and over-built. I've seen their suspensions abused repeatedly for years without failure, and they offer ridiculous amounts of flex. If I had the money and the need for a top-notch suspension, I'd go with the Clayton kit.

I paid $280 for my 8.8 with 31 spline, disc brakes, 3.55s, and a lock-right. You should be able to find one at a junk-yard for a lot less.

Just put 31x10.5s on my '89 with only minimal rubbing at full steer and full stuff. Gonna put 2" spacers up front and 1" shackles in the rear.

My truck does something similar. It starts and runs fine, but once in a while it will start to stumble just like described here. It doesn't always do it. It will last anywhere from a few seconds to 5 minutes, but always clears itself.

My truck does something similar. It starts and runs fine, but once in a while it will start to stumble just like described here. It doesn't always do it. It will last anywhere from a few seconds to 5 minutes, but always clears itself.