MiNi Beast

Here's a pic of the situation, anybody got something for me? http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.c ... ID=2931391

No sway bar man. Mines DD and ride the highway, not a problem. Had few close calls in almost hitting someone, missed stop sign at 4 way, But downshifted and jerked right around them. honestly felt it reacted better in fast turning. But still say when center of gravity is off going around curve don't get testy. But once your used to it, it's all good. And you don't have to worry about the woman trying to drive it either, my girl gets scared $#!&-less just going down the the driveway.

I had same problem but switch out all wiring. The dash wiring and cab wiring all the way back to taillights. Under the dash I jumped the fuel pump to the ignation, so fuel pump comes on with the key on. Then the starter I ran to toggle switch. So everything works like noral but starts on toggle switch, like a push botton start conversion. Found that it dosen't take as long to start like the 4.0 seemily is. Just idea.

I was wondering if you were redoing it from the pics but sorry thats all i got on the roll pan. Good luck if still searching.

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... t=roll+pan or http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... t=roll+pan

ok yeah I know what your talking about now, let me see if I can find it. :redX:

http://www.tntcustoms.com/webv5/xjarmor.asp Maybe this your talking about?

I'm in a hat and cozie, white hat if possible with black stich. It'll match truck. :beerhead:

How much space do you need? How wide of tires you running? The 8.8 is only a inch smaller than the d35 so 7/8" spacers whould be sufficent and put you back to like stock. Then you whould rely on your rims backspacing for tires as wide as '12.50'. Also make sure you can get mounting nuts for the spacers and then you will have to grind off the studs to the spacer so flat.

I would like to know about the lights too. I've been running a toggle switch for my head lights. I got all the same syptoms and itm sucks. Been tryin to figure it out. Was your light switch good before? Mine Was always like that once I got truck. Easier to figure out problem if everything worked correctly before.

That was awesome man. Long it was but intrigue kept thinking it was a cat chasing mouse. It was saved to my computer.

http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/ Just thought this was good diagram for those do-it-yourselfers that want to eliamate the vacum part unless already broke, like mine did. I just made mine a perm lok instead not to worried bout wear and tear untill I UPGRADE then will do this setup with the cable.

Going to look into that, Just had it come out again on me after put on another stock yoke and u joint, So going to possibly retube it if find a place local, Should I get a YJ yoke though for the better angle at the joint?

About how much to retube my drive shaft?

:headpop: Well went out wheelin today and 10 min into play time drive shaft pulled out the t-case and kinked up and broke the slip yoke. good time tough. Well figured it would happen with putting the puke back in, but thats how it goes. But my question is... I have a spring over in the rear, so naturaly the driveshaft is not long like stock, so was wondering if I did a 1" t-case drop and got the rubicon slip yoke sleeve, http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Products. ... C882539327 if this whould pretty much put me back at like stock? Figuring the length of an AX-15/231 set up cause thats what I'll be running. The puke is only temp for the ax-15 rebuild. :driving: So let me know what you think.

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/ ... /1700.html This is not the tranny mount I have but need. Thought I'd paste if anyone may need new mount.

congrats on comanche buy! On Rusty stuff heard lotta negative. And for the price of their lift why bother? The rear end is just a spring over, which you can do with a friend and for like 50 bucks. And the front is just like an Xj, so you should be able to handle that being that you lifted two already. The only real difference in the MJ than an XJ is that the MJ leaf springs are longer. So I hope that helps you some. Also, with varying opinions, is the http://www.rockyroad.com/ SOA 5.5 lift for the MJ, which for a daily driver may work for you without breaking the bank account. Good luck with it man.

You installed the wiring harness? The rear harness from the cab back? When I switch out all my wiring in the whole truck I had same problem, due to the wiring being crossed up by the cab. So I unplugged the harness and ran hot lead to each wire to find which wire went to each light. then made sure the rear lights had their seperate leads. And also a slight possibilty, maybe your turn signal switch, but more so if light comes on and don't blink, than both coming on and blinking. I could agree with being bad balb, but you say you installed new wiring so I would double check there. Good luck with it if have any more questions let me know.

I'd go with a 15" diameter for a 33x12.5R15. Really? :eek: A 15" tire on a 15" rim? :rotf:

:mad: Just going to drill holes in plate and run the bolts in! Good enough for only being temp anyways. Thanks for the help fellas.

:eek: no one got any pics of tranny mount or anything that good help me?

Buddy going to rebuild it for me for $200 plus parts. Just got spare 4.0 with this tranny I put in so i'm stroking it out and rebuilding the AX-15 and 231 t-case then putting it all in at once then off loading everything else.

t-case is same\,231 Have pics anybody? The mounts I have are the same I had on it before with stock, i think it was just turned around. I don't know, it's :mad: irritating!!!! Check if you can on mount, going out wheeling next weekend so like to know what got to do to fix this.

:mad: Swapped in an AX-15, syncrows went bad so pulled to get rebuilt, so putting stock manual back in it, the peogot junk, Pulled tranny yesterday and put other tranny in but when it came to the tranny mount could'nt figure it out, The plate that bolts to the tranny, the holes don't line up. Or does is just sit on cross member then bolt up. :headpop: If any one has a good pic I could figure it out. Any help I'd be the thankful. :bowdown:

I would check trac bar too. Also, do you still run the sway bar? The sway bar clunks into the coilsprings if you don't move the sway bar mounts up a inch.