Pete M

I'll make it up to you. Send me the fullsize image in your avatar and I'll make it less pixel-ated.. :D petermontie@hotmail.com

bump for the move to the DIY forum...

Only if Pete notices it. :roll:

There's another that opened up just down the dirt road from TAS. The other is right over on Pennsylvania (east of Telegraph) by the train tracks. Never been to E+M.

Both the 88 and the 90 have intermittent wipers so I can't say for sure what a non-int looks like, but the connectors on either side of the box will pug into each other.

Glad you were finally able to put her to work. :D I know those brakes were a major pain.

Just couldn't help myself. :D

If they are like mine here, they can get away with it because you sign a waiver when you go in which makes them not liable for your stupidity. :D One makes you sign a form and checks ID. One makes you sign the big sign in sheet (but doesn't check that the name you signed is actually you) One doesn't do diddly-squat I forget what that fourth one does. I don't get out there much.

It's a black plastic box with velcro on it.

yup. ...the front of my truck is lifted 6.5"...sooooo it will be simple as draining fluids, unbolting the pan and rear main cap, pushing out the old rear main, and installing the new one. i'll do the valve cover at the same time so I can flush the motor down with seafoam...will do this before i remove the oil pan, so that it doesn't just drain all over my face... Mine too. Lift makes it sooo much easier. :D I do suggest letting the truck sit as long as possible before removing the pan. And even then, you'll have drops of oil falling on you while you work. Goggles and earplugs are recommended.

Not sure. I've never seen the drum-braked version up close. :dunno: I imagine it's just a matter of adapting your current lines to where the Ford's line attach. Got any pictures?

Naw, that would be tacky. They'll be painted the same color as the hood. :cheers: You're chroming the hood? :hmm: :D

That should be fine. :thumbsup: Just make sure that the lines don't snag on anything.

My area had 3 new pull-yur-parts open up in the last few years. Oddly enough, the rules are a bit different between them. :dunno:

You have an extra "?v=0" at the end of each address. Delete that and add in your IMG tags and you'll be good to go.

My rear main always leaked a little since I bought the 88. Then one day it spewed 5 quarts out in the span of about a half hour. :roll:

I did miss my 88 being the little 2wd that it used to be... so I bought another. :D

That's not a problem on this one. :D She's the last of her kind. 3,391 5.0L HOs were made in '83. Dad ordered it just the way he wanted it.

I made a spreadsheet where I plugged in various numbers and got the inches equivalent. Much faster than using an online calc and I could always go back and reference it. for a 245/70r16 (variables are in bold): 245 / 25.4 = width ((245 / 25.4) * 0.70) *2 + 16 = diameter

inches to metric can be a tricky conversion. Sure the math is easy, but the difference between a 225/75r16 (29.3x8.9") and a 235/70r16 (29.0x9.3") and a 245/70r16 (29.5x9.6") is actually smaller than some 31x10.5s from one manufacturer compared to another manufacturer. Don't limit yourself to a single metric size in your searches. I just found a set of newish 235/70s for the Libby (which is why I had those numbers on hand) and was hunting down all sorts of metric sizes that would work.

What am I doing with said MJ? That would greatly affect my decision.

Could be a custom-made set of leafpacks. :brows:

You could simply cut off part of your front coils. Don't use a torch (you'll alter the steel), only a cutoff blade. And only slice about 3" off a coil at a time, checking the height after each cut. TJ coils are pretty soft. Not exactly what you'd be looking for in a pavement carver. The rear is a simple as adding a steel spacer and getting some new U-bolts. Look into the cheap XJ lift parts. You can find 1 or 2 inch blocks with the longer U-bolts (XJs are spring over so adding blocks to them gives lift). If you're only looking to knock it down an inch or 2, you can keep your current shocks. For extra handling, I've read that you can upgrade the front swaybar with a v8 ZJ bar. I've yet to confirm that, but it's on the long-term list for my 90.

After securing the right year cluster (what year is your MJ?), you'll need to swap out the temp and oil pressure switches for the proper sending units. That's about it. Be careful with removing the oil pressure switch. If it snaps off, you'll have quite a project ahead of you to drill it out. The Odo adjustment can be done by just about any shop and they'll give you the proper paperwork to made it all legal.

:agree: