flint54

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11077

What you're asking is my option #2, home surgery. I encourage you to choose this path, ONLY if you're prepared for the possible consequence of a ruint gauge. I really doubt that pulling and re-seating the needle will overcome this unusual situation, but, until you try, you never know. My JY charges $20 for instrument clusters, and there are plenty. Pulling the speedo from the cluster is no big deal. If you're already certain there are no cable issues, I think just go for the swap. If you want to attempt anything with the old gauge, you have nothing to lose if you've got the replacement gauge ready to swap in. Who knows, you might get lucky. Unlike engines or transmissions, I think speedometers were really not intended to be worked on, except by specialists or by risk takers. But, it sounds like you've done similar surgery before with good result, so you may fare better than most of us mortals. My OP on highway at 85mph is over 50psi, but, try as I may, I cannot get this truck over (an estimated) 92mph. Probably need one of those jap-car wings on the back, a big bleating exhaust tip, and neon lights underneath.

Odometers can be very delicate surgery, and they don't normally "swap out", they're integral to the speedometer. They're designed to not be easily altered, to deter fraud. When I got my truck the reset mechanism wasn't working, so I got another speedo, and sent it off, along with proof of vehicle ownership and verified current mileage, to an instrument shop and they reset the new unit to the correct mileage. As I recall it cost me about $60. This was on a 92 electric unit, perhaps the older ones are simpler?

Using the adhesive sold specifically for mirror tabs, and scrubbing with IPA or acetone, I have never had one come back off without a great deal of brute force - and busted glass.

How shot are they? Mine had the studs busted off and I was able to drill out those spots, insert bolts with the right thread and length, and spot weld the heads in place. They're very hard to salvage at the JY without busting off the studs, but it can be done if you're methodical and careful. Run a nut down on the exposed stud first to clear all the easy crud, then douse liberally with the penetrant of your choosing (I use PB Blaster), then heat with a torch (I know, most JY's forbid torches but I don't give a damn), which will ruin the plastic but that's not what you're after.

And, as an update, even though the online lookup said this is available from dealer, they said NLA when I called. However, one helpful dealer told me about the vintage parts service. This is an outfit that buys up old stock (all kinds of stuff) and sells it through dealers that _really_ wish to go the extra helpful mile (not many). You're supposed to have a dealer code to use the service. I was able to get their phone number, and the girl was extremely helpful and explained how to use their website to buy retail. The site is: WWW.VPARTSINC.COM. You have to set up an account. They have 27 (now 26) of these labels, and it cost me $11, plus $6 for shipping, to order. Sorry, they have no cargo lights (56000846).

Assuming you've already verified that the cable is well engaged and not failing, I see several options: 1) live with it (or retire since it only happens during work commute) 2) pull cluster, pull speedo, and look for mechanical hangup (home surgery) 3) install a replacement cluster or speedo 4) send speedo to someone like this: http://www.autoinstruments.com/ 5) teach it a lesson by frequently pegging the upper limit (85mph)

It is my understanding and my experience that front flares are interchangeable between XJ and MJ, but rear flares are not.

Can delete this one. Item is available new for $9, part number is: 5300-9357

Can close this one. The part number for this is: 5301-0299 or 5304-0078 and they're available new for only a few dollars.

As the title says, I want a new serpentine belt sticker that shows the 96 and up belt routing. Don't know if these are still available. Thanks!

Understand the hesitance, as most all other cables are pull only. This one is fairly stout, and reacts against the two (also stout) brackets. I guess the the return (push) operation will depend in part on how smoothly the internals operate, and whether they're loaded or unloaded at the time of shift. My changeover is scheduled for March '12, and I'll make some images and notes when I do it. It's reversible if it doesn't work out well.

Plus there should be a tab at centerline with an 8 or 9mm fastener reached from below just behind the bumper. Very easy.

Thanks for your reply. Not sure I understand it completely. How did you lean out yours? MAP? Seems that economy and HP are somewhat opposite each other. I was also thinking, perhaps wrongly, that the O2 sensor will tell PCM about an over-rich condition, which in turn would back off the injector pulse, resulting in little real difference. I was also thinking, perhaps also wrongly, that real changes require altering PCM program (mapping) which isn't easy (or possible) with ours? Much to learn here.

Suggest measuring fuel pressure at the rail when this happens. Another thought that comes to mind, and I don't 'know if the PCM is this smart, but I wonder if the TPS at WOT tells PCM to pulse the injectors longer/wider - which cause me to wonder if injectors need attention. If you have a nearby shop that can flow test them, it would be interesting to see how they behave.

:clapping:

I keep reading about folks moving the IAT from manifold to airbox, and have to wonder how much difference it could actually make. I understand the principle, but the difference between manifold temp and air temp for me doesn't seem like much, maybe 50 degrees only (in summer). Wish there were actual data. Any opinions or comments? Anyone here done this?

Curious why not. Are you aware of a bad experience with this product?: http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/shifters/sk2xc.htm I also have one, but haven't installed it yet. It's my winter project after hunt season is over, along with the 231 to 242 swap and bell housing swap. The instructions describe how to adjust for correct position, but I would also suggest marking the current positions for each stop (scribe a fine line somewhere) and then using that as a guide to set up the cable shift. I think this is a well-built item, but only time will tell how it holds up. It seems much simpler than the convoluted linkage.

Glad you added the caveat about not doing much towing. It is a very good looking and well constructed bumper, but it could be made more tow worthy (in case someone ever did) by adding horizontal gussets, say 1/2" thick by 3 or 4 inches wide, on the forward side between the square tube receiver and the two frame tie-in tubes, and full bead to the bumper itself. Wouldn't take much, and would greatly increase the stiffness.

Well, crap! I was afraid that might be the case. I've ripped this dash half apart looking for something that may not exist. I guess if I want this clock I'll have to splice into existing wires. I hate finding that on vehicles I buy, but I guess it's either that or no clock. At least I have both sides of the connector. My truck was built in November of 1991, but apparently after the cutoff. Thanks for the reply, even though I didn't like the answer. ;)

Don, The screw is at the forward outboard corner of the TB mounting flange. It rises vertically through the flange and contacts the throttle link. You can see it in this image. It takes a 3/32" allen wrench from below. Probably a special tool to reach this with TB installed, but quick to pull TB and adjust. Tom

Eludes me. I've read the relevant threads, and I've gotten all contorted looking around the dash backside. I've pulled the instrument cluster, the radio, the HVAC control unit, the lower panel, and I cannot find it anywhere. I have the 1992 factory schematics. There's one graphic (figure 15 on page 8W-35) that points to a coiled up wire with the label "to digital clock" and it's right behind the cluster. However, I've scrutinized every page of the schematics and cannot find any reference to this circuit at all. It is not listed in the index of components. Is it possible that my 1992 does not actually have this connector?

Crusier gets the prize! Crusier, I don't know what town you live in, but if I'm ever there I will buy you a pitcher of the beverage of your choosing. :cheers: :bowdown: Installed a new IAC, no change. Pulled the cable and soaked it with lubricant, no change. Pulled the TB and turned the setscrew (cannot reach with TB installed) no more than 1/4 turn, and voila!! No increase in idle speed, and throttle response EXACTLY as it should be, regardless of speed. Yaa Hoo !!

I'm looking for the instructional sticker that goes on topside of driver's visor for the NP242 Selec-Trac T case. Thanks!

"Hesco has one though. :D" Sure enough they do! My guess is, the only reason you do not yet have one, is because they do not offer one that's chromed? :rotfl2: