mjeff87

is it a rhythmic ticking, sort of like "tika-TIK...tika-TIK...tika-TIK" that increases with engine rpm? If yes, I would suspect a worn timing chain. Had the same problem with my 2.5 and pulled all the lifters/r&r'd the whole top end with no change. Ended up being the timing chain was stretched and slapping the timing cover. Replaced timing set. Jeff

It has 3.07:1 gears.....not good.

I screwed up the "grinding down the end of the rod" part and couldn't get the old brake light switch to work, so I ended up swapping in the whole pedal assembly from the donor XJ I got the booster from. Quite the PITA doing it solo, having a second pair of hands would have really helped, but I got it done. My brake and clutch pedals are off about 1" in height, but it really doesn't bother me. Jeff edit: I spliced the new brake light contact switch into the wiring of the old switch, you need the pink and white wires on the new switch (I just cut off the other wires): Image Not Found

If you are using the 2.5 overflow bottle, you can relocate the washer resivoir to above the HVAC fan.....it fits there like a glove. Just drill two holes in the pinch seam and bolt it in: Image Not Found Image Not Found Jeff

The fuel lines on the 2.5 have quick (dis)connects down along the framerail where the flexible lines meet the hardlines back to the tank, but the 4.0 ones are press-fit. I popped off the 2.5 lines and cut the 4.0 lines out of the donor MJ I used, and joined the 4.0 lines to the metal hardlines with barb fittings and double clamps. Make sure you attach the lines correctly, one is supply and one is return. I can snap a pic of what I did later on tonight when I get home from work if you want to see. Jeff

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true, but both styles still terminate at the C100 connector (and connect to the interior harness the same way). The 89 harness I used doesn't have the C101 and it plugged up 100%.

per my writeup, I swapped an 89 4.0 underhood harness/ECU into my 87.....you need to find the pinouts of the C100 connector for both model years (the C100 is the big connector on the backside of the fuse panel, on the firewall under/behind the brake booster. My research on 87/89 showed that all the C100 pins were the same (2.5 to 4.0) so all I did was swap the underhood harness and left the original 2.5 in-cab harness in place. Everything worked, but I had to switch the HVAC blower fan because it had a different style weatherpack connector. My advice (and what I did) was to pull the old 2.5 drivetrain out completely, then swap the engine harness (and frame horns) while the engine bay was empty. Once the new harness was installed, I dropped the 4.0 in and hooked everything up. By using the 89 harness I also eliminated the dreaded C101 connector too. Same should apply for your '90 harness. Jeff

Here's my writeup, maybe it'll help you: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12871&hilit=VALVE+COVER :cheers: Jeff

Williamsport. We do a lot of work relating to oil/gas. Sorry about your luck....... :rotf: Jeff

Thanks, but a bit above my budget....not saying it's not worth that though, especially where you are located. I'm looking for more of a project vehicle (missed one down here on CL for $800 with a "bad engine" :fs1: just a couple of weeks ago). Good luck! Jeff

what might you be looking to get out of the XJ? I've been semi-sorta looking for one..... Jeff

One little caveat to that......YJ's with the 2.5 that have a 904/909 tranny behind them have 23 spline cases. Jeff

I've yet to find a one-time-and-fuggeda-boutit product, but I've had good success with Flood CWF (clear wood finish) products. They contain UV inhibitors, and come in clear (natural) finish and cedar finish. I usually use the cedar on horizontal and deck structure surfaces and the clear on the rail spindles. I recoat about every three years or so, depending on the amount of weathering.....although my deck only gets moring/early afternoon sun, not all-day sun. I'm sure you'll get plenty of other opinions on product preference, though :yes: Jeff

I use a three step approach: 1. grind in some kitty litter/oil-dry product and let it sit for a day (helps if you do this as soon as the spot happens. Brush it all up. 2. Mix up a paste of powdered laundry detergent and water, peanut-butter like consistency, and smear it over top, and let it sit for another day. Try to keep it moist (you can cover large spots with a plastic bag and weight it down). Scrape it all off. 3. Hit what's left with a degreaser and a stiff brush. Afterward, the spot will still probably be a bit visible, but after a week or so it'll fade into the rest of the concrete. I will be sealing my driveway and walkway like skidoo_j did here in a couple weeks. I have to line up a pressure washer first, right after I finish resealing my deck.....if it ever stops raining up here every weekend :( Jeff

Live aerial coverage now on CNN.com....happened around 12:30 local time. Witnesses report the crew dumping fuel right before ejecting. Details are very scarce at the moment. http://www.cnn.com/video/?/video/cvpliv ... cvpstream3

The county inspector came back out the next week for the final electrical inspection, and everything passed. That's also when the regulator leak was detected :fs1: While waiting for the replacement regulator, I had to re-landscape the yard....I'm a bit anal about my grass :D Started with removing all the crap the contractors did and releveling the whole area, then added 240 lbs of topsoil: Image Not Found Image Not Found fertilized and added 6 new rolls of sod: Image Not Found Image Not Found threw another 100 or so lbs of topsoil on that: Image Not Found can hardly tell anything was done from a distance LOL: Image Not Found overseeded the areaa between the existing lawn and the new sod I laid, then tacked down landscape fabric and watered the whole mess in: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

It had to sit like that until the county came out and inspected it (it passed). The contractor installed a couple of pieces of conduit into the dirt down as sight tubes so the depth could be measured. A couple days later, the plumber came out and reopened the trench and ran the gasline, then covered it all back up: Image Not Found I'm not exactly thrilled about how far off the unit the gas line comes out of the ground, but I'll find a way to camoflauge it somehow, and protect it so I don't whack it with the mower :D After that all happened, they came back and test-fired it (took awhile for the engine to catch as the plumber didn't bleed the gas line, but she finally started up and settled into a nice little hum, barely audible with the cover closed. I'll get a short video clip of it soon so you all can hear just how (not) loud it is. Couple shots of the unit: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

trenching for conduit: Image Not Found drilling thru foundation: Image Not Found Image Not Found generator shows up (yay!): Image Not Found generator set on pad: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found from inside the crawl space: Image Not Found

well, everything's in.....but with one small hiccup. The gas regulator on the new generator has a tiny leak in it, so it's deadlined until Generac ships a replacement and the contractor installs it (should be by tomorrow, hopefully). We did the break-in run and multiple transfers, everything works as it's supposed to. Herewith, some pics of what all was involved. Some people claim this is a DIY project...to them I say no way. I've had no less than 6 different guys working on this install, for a total of about 40 hours (and they do this every day, and have the right tools, too). From the last pic of my mediocre attempt at drywall repair, this is the inside of the new panel: Image Not Found Image Not Found surge suppressor installed: Image Not Found Image Not Found analog hour meter and run-indicator installed beside the panel: Image Not Found pad set for generator (and they added a nice little 120V outlet for me there too): Image Not Found

Guy on another board I'm on was asking me questions about MJ's as he was looking at one locally to purchase (he's not going to), but I thought I'd toss this out here for y'all up that way in case anyone's interested. Here's the CL link: http://salem.craigslist.org/cto/2888288544.html Here's a snip from one of his PM's to me after he went to look at it, to give you an idea of the general condition. IMHO, the lady is asking too much for it, but I don't really know what the market is in the area......

The generator is fully installed, gas meter was tapped yesterday and she has fuel....test fire will occur early this afternoon. I've got a ton of pics, will post them along with a short video clip of it running (hopefully :D ) as well. Jeff

Well, we're back from vacation (at least physically, my mind is still on the ocean LOL). Generator is built and en route, install will be on Thursday......will post lots 'o pics, and I'll try to shoot a small audio/video clip of it running too. Yee-haw! Jeff

You need to drive the roll pin out. You can use a small punch, or a finishing nail even. Jeff

load transfer is adjustable, from 10 to 30 seconds....I'll probably have them set it for 10-15 seconds initally and see how it works out. Funny thing, last night at almost exactly midnight there was a loud explosion off in the distance (had to be a transformer, and was loud enough to wake me up from a dead sleep on my couch) and power and cable dropped instantly. About 20 seconds later, everything was back online. Weather was calm and quiet, I'm guessing a car hit a pole somewhere close. I'm having a whole-house surge protector installed on the panel, too. The genset has an over/under current protector and a main line circuit breaker. Both "sides" of the panel (utility and generator) are breakered at 125A.