mjeff87

Did you just call Don an ah so? i love this place, lol.

I did score at the junkyard the other day....they had an 02 there that was immaculate. I was able to get that little plastic flipper pad for the rear glass which I already installed, and I grabbed the driver side door seal/weatherstripping (mine has a small tear in it that's bothered me from the day I bought the vehicle, lol). I'll be installing that in the morning.

I'd drop the axle and wheels, and change the "85" to "86".

Decent pricing, plus my wife has a prime account early christmas mass present for me, lol.

I'm in for a hoodie, black or dark/forest green if possible. Jeff

If you have a local spring shop to you, have them bend up up a set.

Little late now, but if you remove the 2 nuts on the end of the exhaust manifold at the flange holding the crosspipe, you can move the crosspipe out of the way enough to get the one bolt to drop out. I swapped out the factory E-12 bolts that are much longer than necessary with a couple 3/8 hex head bolts about an inch shorter. That way, if you ever have to remove them again all you need is a regular socket, and don't have to mess with the exhaust to get them out. Stupid AMC design that was, lol. Glad you got it figgered out OP

Any chance you could snag a pic of that hole you drilled Pat? My blend door seems to be functioning correctly, but I know it's just a matter of time before it doesn't. I watched one hack video on the youtube about cutting a hole in the heater box, but I'm definitely not following that moron's advice. Heat is back to good, I actually had to cut it back some yesterday because it was TOO hot, lol. And a new coil pack fixed the misfire. I also found a receipt for that coilpack from when I replaced it last year and it has a "limited lifetime warranty", so I'm going to take it back to AA to see if they can exchange it with a new one. Problem is I bought it from that AA with the moron store manager who initally refused to warranty the battery I bought that crapped the bed 6 days before the replacement warranty expired a couple months ago (I have a separate thread about that adventure somewhere on here.....). If he hassles me on the exchange I'm not going to argue about it, as I'm pretty much to blame for shorting it out It works ok now, so I'll just keep it as an emergency spare, unless the store is willing to exchange it for me.

Halloween is the one holiday I really can't stand. As such, we shut all the lights off, lock the doors and go out to dinner....it's become a yearly tradition. Our neighbors have young(er) kids, so we make up a big basket of candy stuff for them and take it over to them before we leave for the evening. Yeah, I know....bah humbug and all that.

Annnddd......wouldn't ya know it. Jeep drove fine all night last night and the whole way to work this morning. Went out at breaktime to run to Lowe's and have a misfire on #6. I already knew what it was, I pulled the coil pack off the plug and it was dripping wet. The plugs on the 3.7 screw directly into the top of the head and are pointed straight up (#6 is directly below the heater core too). I literally FLOODED the entire top of the engine last night in my flush adventure, like I always do as the heater core nipples are right above the back of the engine. I did use shop air for about 10 minutes with a blow gun tip to blow all the water out of everywhere, but enough must have collected in the plug hole to short out the coil. I'm running out at lunchtime to grab a new coil. I did blow out the old one and put it back on and the misfire went away, but I'm just going to replace it. I'll dry it out over the weekend and toss it in the spare parts bin.

Yeah, it's a KJ thing. Stupid design......the core is level or slightly higher than the expansion tank and traps air. It's also not really able to be flushed due to the way it's designed. If there's crud, or like in my case an air pocket, inside it, coolant bypasses the entire core and just exits as quickly as it goes in. That's why I tried flushing it with the nose pointing upward in my driveway...I think that was the real "trick" that worked last night. LOL.

Volume and pressure are inversely proportional in fluids. Not trying to be a Debbie downer, but I'd think the increased pressure you're seeing is the benefit of a brand new pump versus one that's 30 years and 200k+ miles old. regardless of the reason, 60/40/50 psi is a GOOD thing

This is on my KJ, not an MJ. I'd say if you only have 125 degree coolant, your thermostat is inop. Could be the gauge/sending unit also, considering the age, but if you don't have good heat in the cab I'd suspect system issues (thermostat). If the engine doesn't get hot enough it won't come out of open loop operation and won't run very efficiently. Contrary to what many think, the t-stat functions to keep the engine warm enough to operate correctly, not to keep it cool

I got it i went medevil on the core. Pulled the expansion tank and core hoses like I normally do, but forward and reversed flushed it for about 20 minutes. Then I blew the core out with air and filled it with a mix of white vinegar and boiling water. Let it sit for 30 minutes, then flushed it both ways for another 10 minutes or so. I did it in the driveway with the nose pointing up, then filled the core with coolant mix and quickly put the hoses back on. Reinstalled the resivoir filled up and ran it for 20 minutes with the cap off to purge air out. i now have +160 degree air out the vents

It's possible, but I'm not convinced of that. I've been religious about cooling system maintenance on this thing since I've owned it, considering its one of the Achilles heels of this engine (along with dropping valve seats.....) My driveway slopes toward my garage slightly, so I think I'm gonna try flushing the core again this weekend with the nose pointing in the other direction to see if it makes any difference. I'm hesitant to put any kind of flush chemical into the core (I have CLR on hand) for fear of developing a leak in the damn thing. The heat output is marginal, which is ok for me here in VA. But, I have to roadtrip this thing up to PA in January and I'll definitely need some better output for that, lol.

LOL, I don't think so. I've got good airflow out the vents/defrost. When I was flushing it, especially in reverse, I got a big slug of air out repeatedly. I just can't seem to get it out and keep it out long enough to hook the hoses back up. Core is a stupid design, it has both inlet and outlet at the top. I'll try flushing it one more time. I might buy some spare hoses and try to fill the core up after flushing by holding the hose ends up high and pouring coolant into them, then quickly try to pull them off and put the engine hoses back on.

Every fall, I have to flush my heater core in the KJ to remove an air pocket so I get full heat for the winter. It's worked every time.....until now. I just had the radiator replaced and had a new thermostat installed last month, and the shop swore up and down they bled all the air out of the system. Not. I've flushed the heater core 2X now, ran it without the cap on the tank until the t-stat opened. Squeezed both upper and lower rad hoses endlessly, and even managed to get the bleed screw on the water neck unscrewed and purged every bit of air out. (side note, I don't think that screw has ever been unscrewed since new.....). I've got a definate temp delta between both core hoses (about 155 in, 100 out), so I know the core isn't clogged but I can't get cabin air above about 125 degrees. The blend door is functioning correctly also. There's still an air pocket inside the core that I can't push out. Any tips or tricks I don't know about?

^^^kinda what I'm thinking Ohm. I know on my KJ, when the pump handle does the auto shut off, it's FULL. At best, I can only round the pump up to the next nearest .25c increment......any more than that and there's gas running down the side, over flowing the filler neck. Learned that the hard way more than once, lol. Minuit, I can't see how a float would only work halfway. If it's compromised, it wouldn't float at all regardless of tank fill. I'd suspect the float arm is getting hung up on something around the 1/2 tank mark preventing it to rise any higher.

Just an FYI, still an issue for me. I can log in and read posts via IE but I can't respond to anything. I have to paste the thread URL into a Chrome browser (and re-log in) to post anything. FWIW, I'm just about done with IE altogether. More and more websites don't run correctly with it than do these days. Jeff

Just spitballing here, but.....are there different sending units based on the size tank they go into? IIRC, there were/are at least 3 diffferent sized tanks for SWB MJ's (16, 18 and 23 maybe???) Could you have put in a larger replacement tank than the one you had originally? Probably nowhere close to the actual issue, but the thought just crossed my mind. HTH. Jeff

Piece 'o cake.....pull the steering wheel and lockplate (there's a tool for the lockplate but you can manage without it if you have to). There's a setscrew that holds the whole ign cylinder in, just remove it and pop out the cylinder (after pulling out the ignition swtich rod).

In for updates.....can't believe I just found this thread. You have good taste in cerveza Out of the *few* pics you've shared with us, I just keep coming back to this one. Don't know why......it just looks ominous. Jeff

Wow Bo, glad you are ok. I think a lot of folks underestimated the power of this storm. It was just a disorganized broad low pressure area off the Honduran coast last week, but it hit the bath water in the gulf and just exploded. Keep an eye on Nadine way out in the southeast Atlantic too....it just might turn into something as it gets closer to the US. Hopefully with the pattern change there are more, stronger cold fronts crossing the country that would help push things off the coast.

The bonus of going 20k or larger is that it comes with a new breaker panel with the automatic transfer switch (ATS) built in, as opposed to a separate unit hanging on the wall. It's a much cleaner install (and you get a new panel). Shoot me a PM if you have any questions.

Don, I've blown some money on a lot of stupid crap over my 48 years, but I'm here to tell you that generator was the BEST purchase I ever made. Lots of options out there, I won't try to sway you one way or another, but this Generac I bought back in 2010 has never missed a beat. It's an air cooled unit, I think the next step up (22k) goes to water cooled and 1800 rpm, which is quieter than this 3600 rpm unit, but we can barely hear it running right outside the bay window in the living room. I got it mostly because when/if there's a mass power outage it's most likely due to some catastrophic event and I'm usually at work supporting some kind of relief operation and my wife is here by herself. It's all automatic, she doesn't have to do a thing and she's safe. edit:. I was out cutting the grass and just noticed we lost one of our Leyland Cypress trees in the back yard. It's flopped over and the whole root ball is popped out of the ground. No chance of saving it. Still better than my neighbor missing half of his roof....