mjeff87

1/8" There's a nice piece of 1/4" C channel sitting here at work, just rusting away outside the building. I'm working on the boss to let me take it away....it's about 8' long X at least 6" (or so, haven't measured it). I figure you could use it for something. Would make for one hell of a bumper :D edit: it's 1/8" not 1/4", 8" by about 8.5 feet long

Pat, I need a set of those for that Tomken bumper I have on the MJ. If you're fabricating, you can use my rig as a guinea pig ;) I already picked you up a box of 6013 rods.....I'll go get some more.... Jeff

I've held one of those joints Pat has in my hand. Let's just say you could kill small animals with one.......

^^^pull the master cylinder^^^ then you can get to the prop valve very easily. You gotta bleed it all anyhow :D

The rear height sensing valve (thingy with the brakelines running in/out of it and a rod connecting the arm to the diff cover bolt...if it's still there) is designed to adjust f/r brake bias with a load in the bed. If yours works, no need to tinker with it. But many of us have eliminated it completely and just run a single line from the prop valve in front to the axle, with no ill effects. You'll notice two lines running to it from the front....one is live, and the other is actually a safety line that is supposed to come alive in the event of a front brake failure, allowing full brake pressure to the rears. One of the members actually sawed a spare front prop valve in half lenghwise and discovered that the port that feeds the 'safety' line wasn't actually drilled completely thru, which meant it never would have worked as designed anyhow. I'll let others chime in on how to plumb the line (they have good pics, as you have to cap one port on the front valve and run the rear line to a different output, and I can't remember which one is which right now :D ) For the rear hard line, you'll probably experience more leaking from different spots if you just put a patch piece in to fix your leak now. It's best to just run a whole new line from the front back, just to be safe. That said....I didn't run a full new line. I spliced a new line in around the UCA mount area, where the original line was still solid, and I used a compression fitting, too (I hate flaring....). Yeah, I know, it's not the best, but it's held for over 3 years now, and passed VA safety inspections as well. YMMV. Welcome to the club! Jeff edit: here's a couple pics. First one is the rear hardline on mine, minus the height valve. Second one is a shot of the soft line/junction block that Tom mentioned above, which is longer by about 6" (on an axle I'm about to swap in) Image Not Found Image Not Found

Short version........nothing, so long as you don't engage 4WD. If you do, the difference will cause bind in the transfer case, as both driveshafts will spin at different revolutions. End result will be a broken case, at the least.

Wife and I were on our way from Stone Harbor, NJ down to catch the Cape May/Lewe's fairy to get back to VA when we heard the first hit on the radio. Thinking it was some kind of wacky DJ morning-show schtick we kept going. When the second one hit, I turned around and drove right back up to the house we were staying in and holed up until the next day. The plane that crashed in PA was about 20 minutes away from the family house. :USAflag: Jeff

paging Dr. Pingpong......Dr. Pingpong...... (and he'll need your rear frame section when ya cut it off... :brows: ) Jeff

The numbers on the ring gear will look like this: (3.07 in this case) Jeff Image Not Found

I can dig most everything but the Mack bulldog on the hood. WTH? Jeff

Thanks Cole. I think I'[m gonna go that route initially, since I have the parts. If I have to change down the road, so be it. :cheers: Jeff

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but the same problem just happened to me today (cleared cookies, and had to relog in each visit afterward :hateputers: ). Mitch's suggestion of logging in at the bottom of the page works like a charm. Thanks Mitch! Jeff

Yeah, I'd like to if possible. I've got an extra set of MJ plates to modify if need be. Excellent ideas, guys......thanks a ton! Jeff

What did all you SOA guys do for axle shock mounts? I've seen the weld-on mounts (RE, JKS, et al) but I know the fab skills of the group and am looking for a homebrew version. I've also seen someone on here use the MJ plates flipped upside down and side to side to mount the shock aboved the axle. Does that work good? I tried to figure out the amount of body lift (which would raise the upper mount) compared to the higher position of the mount, and it seems to be about equal (??), so could you still use the stock length shocks if you did that? Last thing I need to figure out before I put the axle underneath...hopefully this weekend. Thanks, Jeff

Rick, if it keeps nagging you in your head, your mind is already made up.... :D 4.56's turned my MJ into a whole new vehicle. Jeff

I'll take a few tonight after work, but it's nothing really bad. Considering where we all were, I coulda done a lot worse. If I had my new axle in, I woulda done alot worse.... ;) (bottom of page 7, Jerry knows the place well) http://www.eastcoast4wd.net/forums/show ... 755&page=7 Jeff

MJ rule #6......... when woods-wheeling, at night, DON'T follow the YJ/TJ/Rubicons if you're in an MJ (even a shortbed) MJ rule #7......... when the SWB Jeeps all decide to go left, DON'T follow two kids on a quad who go right. I put some racing stripes on the Jeep Saturday night, and broke my passenger side mirror. I knew I was gonna hit the driverside.....it was a choice of body damage or dropping my left side in a 3 foot trench. Never even saw the tree that hit the mirror, all I heard was a thunk, and my wife yelling at me :D Jeff

Had a great weekend, and just about have the axle ready to go in. Took it down to Pat’s on Saturday, drank lots of beer :D and he welded the new perches on for me :bowdown: . We also disemboweled one of his parts vehicles with a cutting torch…..fun stuff :brows: . Sunday I installed the Dakota combo vent line/distribution block and rear brake hose. I plugged the stock hole for the Jeep block and drilled/tapped the vent hole to accept the 7/16x20 Dakota part. If anyone does this, you’ll need a 25/64” drill bit to enlarge the hole to tap it. I also shortened the center bolt that threads into the tube a bit, so it was a tad further away from the axleshaft. I tried bending new brakelines to the wheel cylinders and remembered why I don’t do that very often (I pretty much suck at it…..), so I swung by the ‘yard and pulled some nice new lines off a late model XJ with an 8.25. Just had to tweak them a bit and they bolted right in. All that’s left is to figure out some shock mounts, and pick up new U bolts (leaving work early today to get a new set bent up). Jeff Dakota line/distribution block and vent: Image Not Found Drilled and tapped, with rubber impregnated washer: Image Not Found Shortened vent: Image Not Found View from inside the tube: Image Not Found Installed: Image Not Found Perches welded on (thanks Pat!): Image Not Found Brakelines run: Image Not Found

I just wrapped a chain around the whole damn engine......thread it thru the intake runners on the driver side, and come around the distributor carefully on the other side. Joined the two chain endpieces on top with a grade 8 bolt and some washers, and hooked it over the hook on the puller. Redneck? Hells yeah......but it worked :D Jeff

could be a ZJ axle...they used CV's.

'tis only rattlecan, I'll grind it off around the perch area for welding, then respray it all, including the perches :brows: . I just needed to get some covering on the housing after I cleaned it all up to bare metal. And no......I ain't putting coil buckets on it anytime soon :D

Got my sexy new Mopar hi-performance perches via UPS yesterday. Ordered them online from JEGS……$12.99 and they were on my doorstep in 2 days Hopefully Pat and I can get them welded on to the tubes this weekend ;) Jeff Image Not Found Image Not Found

diagnostic test ports. Hang on a minute and I'll post up a pinout so you can see all the points.... Jeff

deepinaharta, VA......no road salt, no sea salt. I wish my truck was from here instead of PA, it's a rustbucket. It kills me, I go junkyarding down here and there are XJ/MJ's with undersides so clean you can see the factory PAINT underneath :nuts: Jeff

Here's what Eagle is talking about.....dana axles have the r&p tooth count stamped into the ring gear. It's the last set of numbers in the long string stamped on the face. This is a pic of the 3.07's on the axle I have (just swapped for a set of 4.56's :D) HTH, Jeff Image Not Found