mjeff87

If you define driveable as "it moves under it's own power", then yes :D Actually, I'm quite impressed with how it stood up.....that was a direct t-bone and she was going about 35 mph. The driverside damage happened when I spun around and clamped the BMW sitting at the intersection :oops: Other than the body damage, one of the belts on the engine is squealing (I'm afraid to open the hood for fear it won't close again), and it's not leaking a drop of anything. The only major issue is the driverside rear wheel.....the spindle mount got bent up, and it's off camber (but it still rolls LOL) I don't think the local boys-in-blue would like to see me driving it down the road, though. Jeff p.s....Pete, 90,000 comedians in this country, and you can't find a job?:D:D:D

was it the new piece that failed again, or a different part of the original line? From experience, I can tell you that just splicing in a small piece of new line to fix it will lead to other blowouts. You should replace the entire line from the prop valve back to make sure it's all good. Not the cheapest/fastest fix, but it's the safest. Jeff

ridenlow, PM me.....I need a cheap econobox DD...... here's a couple pics of the Kia (R.I.P. :cry: ) I got T-boned dead center on the passenger side, which spun me around into another car sitting at the intersection waiting to make a turn. Image Not Found Image Not Found The sad part of it all is that I was on the way home from the driveshaft shop with a brand new DS for the MJ (lengthened 3/4", new yokes, and 3" tube). I had to crawl under the MJ this morning and put it in so I'd have something to drive.. Image Not Found

Not in the MJ, but in my DD (Kia Spectra). I'm a bit banged up, but the car is totaled.......I'll post some pics a bit later on this morning after the camera battery recharges. Worst part about it was I was on my way home from the grocery store where I just bought a case of beer, and had it sitting upright on the passenger seat. When I got hit, that case became airborne (stopped it with my head) and split open, beer cans went everywhere and a couple exploded showering the whole interior, and me, with beer. I had to do a field sobriety test right on the shoulder of the road with about 3000 rubberneckers, and had to submit to a BAC test after I passed all of them because the cop didn't believe I wasn't drinking And I got a ticket for "failure to yeild". Not sure what the other driver got charged with, if anything :roll: Jeff

Pulled out the 242 yesterday to clean it up for install in the MJ, and came across this machined hole in the side of it, right in front of the range selector. It's not threaded, but it looks like it's there for a reason. Anyone know what it's for, or what might plug into it? The 231 doesn't have it. Jeff Image Not Found

yep, I did some hard measuring this morning before. Both of the cases I have are the same, right around 16 3/4 to 17" long. No difference..... Jeff

yeah, that slipyoke is out too far. Mine is only out about half that amount, using a YJ yoke, and I've got vibes from 40 mph up in 4th and 5th. For now, rather than getting one of my driveshafts lengthened, I'm gonna put a 242 TC in tomorrow, which is reportedly 1" longer overall than a 231 (just happen to have one under the house :D and the 231 that's in there now needs to come out for a rebuild anyway). I'll put some pics up tomorrow. I'd also recommend you replace both driveshaft ujoints, as they tend to get comfortable operating at a certain angle over time, and you've just changed that angle by the SOA. Your rig is looking really good man :cheers: . Now all you have to do is all the fine tuning post lift to get it just right (like I'm doing now....) What front coils are you running, by the way? Those definately aren't stock. I've got a set of 5.5" TJ springs going in mine when I get my new UCA's. With the way I have those ACOS spun all the way down now, those ZJ coils ride like pure azz... Jeff

say what you want, but the wife and I switched to cable about 6 months ago and haven't looked back since. We got the bundled package (enhanced digital, phone, and internet) and are paying about $20 less per month than when we had them all seperate. And we pay one bill, not three. The cable modem is faster than the T1 line I have at work. Not the cheapest, but it's a price I'm willing to pay. Jeff

:chillin: I'd already installed new leafpacks about 6 months ago, with all new bushings and antiseize on all the bolts. Plus, new ubolts when I swapped the axle in a month ago. So I didn't have to fight all that mess.....

Thanks man....that confirmed my suspicions. Do you know if the front output is the same, or is it an inch furthur back? I'm guessing it's the same, as just the rear half is longer to accomodate the differential for the full time setting. If so, I won't have any worries with my front driveshaft. Jeff

I love safety inspections.....since I do all the maintenece on all the vehicles in the fleet, I know what's what. I like to take the afternoon and stand on the shop floor while the tech does his thing. I learned the hard way when the wife and I first moved down here..I dropped the MJ off at a local station and said "put a sticker on it". We were going out for the day (it was a Saturday) and I figured all was well. Got back into town late in the afternoon and it had a sticker on it. I went to pay up and they said it needed back brake shoes. No problem, I said, how much do I owe ya? . . . . . $173 :headpop: 40 in parts (new shoes, plus they took the liberty of installing all new hardware 'cause they said it was all "rusty"), and 133 in friggin' labor. Shame on me once....never again. Jeff

Guys, I need a measurement from anyone on here who has a 231 sitting on the ground at the moment. I'm comparing overall length differences between a 231 and 242, and need the length of a 231 from the tranny mountng surface to the end of the tailshaft/output shaft. I've got a 242 stashed under the house I'm gonna measure tonight.....it's a long weekend for me, and I'm thinking about swapping it into the MJ. Just want to make sure I've got a driveshaft that'll fit. I've heard rumor that the 242 is about an inch longer than the 231, but I've never measured them. Thanks, Jeff

yeah, you can cap them off or pull them out if you want. I was converting to 4WD so I didn't have any to begin with....I got all the lines out of the junkyard to do it like the factory, but after about 5 minutes of looking at the whole mess of spaghetti I realized I didn't want to mess with it. Out came the CAD, in went about 7 washers, and it's been like that since :) Jeff Image Not Found

I don't know....but I'll find out next month when I take it in for inspection :D I was gonna keep it "full length" until after I got the new sticker on it, but the tailpipe just kept getting in the way when we were doing the SOA. After a few Bud Lights, the sawzall came out, and it was gone I put a turndown tip on it....at least

Shhhhhh! quiet.....you'll ruin it for all the rest of us :D Nice, clean MJ you got there. Yes, those bushings are red LOL...... For the CAD, you can shim over the shift fork with a couple washers to lock both axleshafts together full time, like the newer XJ's. Mine's been like that for a couple years now without a problem. Jeff

yeah, '90 bumpstops are screw-in. If you haven't had them out in a while, or ever, you may have to get them started unscrewing with a pipe wrench.....slip it inbetween the coils and spin them off a bit at a time. If the ends are still "cupped" and haven't rusted off yet, they won't fit thru the top of the coil. You have to unscrew them first, then remove the coil. Jeff

heh.....no I didn't. They're still sitting in the parts project pile, to go in maybe eventually. I ran across a smokin' deal on a set of fully rebuilt loaded drum backing plates locally, so I just ended up staying with drums to keep things simple. Plus I swapped in a dual diapraghm XJ booster/MC, which really improved the stock braking system. For now, brakes are working great, but I still might do the discs later on down the road. Jeff

gonna try to get the winsheild out of this one too? ;) yer a Ford-lady of the night..... Jeff

For search purposes: Static distance from upper/lower shock mounts reusing the stock MJ spring plates on my rig is 14.5”. I ordered up a set of Monroe #32207, which are for a Taco rear…..collapsed length is 11.3”, extended is 18”. Put them on tonight and rode around a bit, and all seems good. Jeff Image Not Found Image Not Found

I've got the 2WD beam axle from my MJ sitting up near Pittsburgh, PA. You can have it for free......you just have to come pick it up :D Jeff

I know this is not a Jeep (but it's AMC :D ). This is my neighbor's 360 in his Duster......talk about a wire tuck! Only thing visible is the plug wires and the one wire off the alternator.... Jeff Image Not Found

I'm picking up a set of shorty rear shocks this afternoon.....11.3"/17.8" spec'd for a Taco. We'll see how they work out. Jeff

Well, for now, those lowers will suffice. I need to get longer uppers to correct the pinion and the caster (and be able to put my front driveshaft back in :oops: ) Pat has this strong urge to help me go to longarms.......we'll see :D Jeff

Hey....I resemble that remark :D you dang well better holler the next time you're up this way.....and the beer's on us :cheers: Jeff

Well, I didn't measure before and after, but I do know that with 31's on it, the rear flares are 37" from the ground (fronts are 36"). From the rear, if I lean on the tailgate, the top of it is armpit height on me, and I'm 5'8". I'd say altogether the SOA netted about 5.75 to 6" of total lift 8) As far as time goes, it only took about a half a day (and an 18 pak of Bud Light), but I've been planning this build for a good while now, and had most everything in hand, parts-wise, before we started. Even with all the pre-planning, I've still got a few issues to deal with post lift.