mjeff87

OK guys (and gals), I'd like to put an official Virginia (mid-atlantic) meet and greet together sometime this spring or early summer. My wife and I are building a house, hoping to move in sometime around mid-June, weather permitting. Why don't we plan a meetup in the Richmond area around then, and you all can come help us move :D I'll more than happily supply good eats and libations of your favor...... :cheers: Jeff

Rear axle is fairly straightforward....drop the driveshaft, disco the shocks and brakeline, cut the old u-bolts off with weapon of your choice (so you're not tempted to reuse them :no: ). The only problems you may have would be with the e-brake cables. Does the replacement axle have them still connected? If so, disconnect your old ones at the yoke underneath the bed and pull the axle out. If not, leave them connected there and disco them at the parking brake struts inside the drums and install the new axle and reconnect them. A good pair of needle-nose vise grips help tremendously in reconnecting them. Front is fairly easy as well. Block up the rig at the framerails behind the LCA mounts as high as you safely can and let the axle droop fully. Disco the driveshaft, calipers (or just the brake hoses if you want but you'll have to bleed the system once you are done), lower shocks (or remove them completely), spring clips, sway bar links, steering stabilizer, and tie rod ends (leave the drag link connected to the tie rod and pitman arm, just tie it all up and out of the way). Disco the axle side of the trackbar and then you should be able to push down each side of the axle and slip the springs out. A small bottle jack between the axle and framerail helps here if you have one). Disco the LCA's at the axle, then the UCA's and pull the axle out. When you reinstall the new axle, connect the control arms and reinstall the shocks, then the trackbar. If it doesn't line up, hook the steering back up, put the wheels back on and put the front end back on the ground. Have a helper turn the wheel in the cab until the TB sleeve lines up with the hole in the bracket then slip the bolt in. Reconnect everything else and recenter your steering wheel if needed via the sleeve on the drag link. Jeff

as far as I know I am.....gimme a call

Two priests died at the same time and met Saint Peter at the Pearly Gates. St. Peter said, "I'd like to get you guys in now, but our computer's down. You'll have to go back to Earth for about a week, but you can't go back as priests. What'll it be?" The first priest says, "I've always wanted to be an eagle, soaring above the Rocky mountains." "So be it," says St. Peter, and off flies the first priest. The second priest mulls this over for a moment and asks, "Will any of this week 'count', St. Peter?" "No, I told you the computer's down. There's no way we can keep track of what you're doing." "In that case," says the second priest, "I've always wanted to be a stud." "So be it" says St. Peter, and the second priest disappears. A week goes by, the computer is fixed, and the Lord tells St. Peter to recall the two priests. "Will you have any trouble locating them?" He asks. "The first one should be easy," says St. Peter. "He's somewhere over the Rockies, flying with the eagles. But the second one could prove to be more difficult." "Why?" asketh the Lord. "He's on a snow tire, somewhere in North Dakota."

grab the spacer, but you may not need it (I didn't use it and don't have any problems). You'll have to splice your brakelight wires into the new switch.....there's 6 wires on the new switch but you only need two of them, the pink and the white ones. Doesn't matter which way you splice them into the two wires in the harness, it's only a contact switch that closes and makes continuity. Jeff

I pulled the freeze plugs on the 4.0 I swapped into my MJ while I had it out on a stand. There were chunks, and I mean CHUNKS of rust/scale built up between the cylinder sleeves and the block casting. I had to break them up and suck them out with a shop vac.....I doubt any commercial flushing chemical would have broken them up, and if it did the little pieces would have ended up migrating all thru the system. I wish I'd have taken a pic....I still can't believe what was inside. Jeff

UPDATE-- Sorry it's taken so long to report, but the swap seems to have done the trick. Not sure if it's the larger vaccuum line, the baffle tray versus the "towers", or a combination of both, but I pulled the air cleaner this weekend and there was only a tiny bit of oil on it that I think was just residual oil in the fresh air line (I cleaned it as best I could but I think there was still some inside of it). I drove the MJ hard all day on Friday all day, and also got it out on the interstate for about 20 miles or so. Beforehand, I would have had about a cup of oil in the airbox, leaking out the bottom and down the framerail, giving me a free undercoating job. I'm quite pleased with the outcome of this mod, and would recommend it. Total cost was $6 for the VC from the 'yard, some elbow grease to clean it up, and about $30 for the new gasket. I either got new vac tubing along with the VC or reused my existing stuff. Jeff

I make a point to wave at every PD that passes me (a couple of them live in my subdivision even). Don't know if it helps, but none of them have pulled me yet, for whatever reason real or imagined. Jeff

CW....just saw the post. Take good care buddy! Try some FRUIT in your beer for once, it's good for ya (sorry, couldn't resist :cheers: ) Hope you have a speedy recovery. Jeff

Niiiiiice... I figured they would have thrown in a field goal somewhere along the way, but they didn't. Then they would have covered.... almost spit out my beer when Troy intercepted ;) I predict Steelers +11 in the Bowl.

+3 more is good, but we still need the TD. I'm hoping Flaco tries to force one and Troy finally gets the in the deserves to get, and that sets up a scoring drive. Wade.....I'm guessing your betting against the spread? :nuts: :D Jeff

halftime......this thing is getting painful to watch from all sides. Roughing the kicker????? come on, gimme a break. I guess the zebras are making up for the BS calls they made in the first quarter against us. I still say that first field goal should have been a TD. He caught the ball, and made a "football move" as they say nowadays. I guess the ground really CAN cause a fumble, depends on who's calling it. Second half, we need one score (screwed up that last drive before halftime throwing over the middle like that). One TD in the 3rd, and it'll be ground-and-pound, clock management, DEFENSE, classic Black and White. Final score preditction, 23/17 Steelers (I hope ;) )

+ 7 and the Homes dirty bird dance as a bonus.... (that was about the ugliest TD play I think I've ever seen) 13/0

shoulda been a TD, but we'll take 3 more..... I hear ya Don, I was really pulling for the Eagles. If they'd have played the 1st half like they did the second, things would have been different. I'm betting McNabb retires in the off season :(

First blood has been drawn :cheers: 3/0 Stillerz

you need a 750 Holley Dominator..... :brows: Jeff

I'm actually putting off signing the contract for the new house from tomorrow afternoon until Monday afternoon..... (my wife is about ready to murder me :help: )

big 'ol X2 on that :bowdown: What size carb is that, 850-ish?? Keep this thread going, please ;) Jeff

Big X2 on that.....and gearing will only get you so much before you reach the point of diminishing returns. I ran 33's on my 2.5, with 4.56's even. It was decent putting around town and in 4L it was a tank, but was unbearable on the highway. Pedal to the floor, 5th gear was unusable unless going dead flat or downhill, and taching over 3K. I ended up swapping in a 4.0 :chillin: Jeff

for reference, here's mine on about 6" with 15X10 D-slots and 35X12.5's at the moment. The rear axle WMS is about an inch narrower than the front, as you can see: Image Not Found

I'm double checking the garage dimensions this afternoon....I think I'm wrong on the size. Paul, that is the exact sealing kit I'm planning on using This is the lot I think we’re going to select, and a finished version of the house model we’re going with. The lot is smaller than some of the others available, but it has it’s advantages to us (along with being cheaper :D) It’s backed by a ravine that’s a protected conservation area, and is also the last plot in the section you see. Nothing is going to get built either behind or beside it on the one side. Plus it’s just big enough for me to take care of landscaping-wise without having to commit an entire day, like the lot we currently have. Image Not Found This is what will eventually be moving into (not the same colors, though): Image Not Found

I'm thinking that post was directed at me......Pat and I have an ongoing parts swap-athon been going on for the last couple years down here in VA :yes: If you do go to 35's, stay with an 8" wheel....part of my problem is that I'm running 15X10's with minimal backspacing (like 3" or so). I have full steering lock-to-lock, but they sure don't stuff well (read: at all) in the front. Jeff

well, we do have to keep it within budget, but it is a 20X20 (attached). Can't do a lift because there's going to be a bonus room above it (my concession to the wife....I get the garage, she gets the bonus room :shake: ) Can't do the radiant heat, but it really doesn't get that cold down here. I'm going seal the concrete myself. The builder was able (with my persuasion) to move up the slotting date by 3 weeks, so we're looking at a move in by the end of June at the latest, weather permitting. Y'all are invited to the grand opening :cheers: if I'm still alive by then.. Jeff

I can't let this one go, especially since you offered...so tell us, how do you know? I only ask because I hate clocksprings, especially the ones in small 2 and 4 cycle engines that use recoil starter assemblies. I've been owned more than once by them..... :oops: please share your experience with them, so I can laugh at someone else's misfortune other than mine, for once ;) Jeff

X2 I'm on 35's at about 6".....you need more than "trimming" in the front, trust me. I've trimmed, and rub just pulling in/out of my driveway :rotfl2: Next step for me is to pull the flares and cut the fenders up to the flare line. Reinstalling the flares is an option I haven't decided on yet. Jeff