HOrnbrod

Great, thanks. I'll check it out tomorrow - errr, today.

Yeah, it's got to be somewhere on the tranny. Will crawl under tomorrow. Just was hoping someone ran into this before.

Thanks Dirty, but no speedo cable, it's electronic. Been through my AW-4 manual too, can't find it. Got to be a gear driven magnetic pickup somewhere, most likely on the tranny...............

Have regeared and put on bigger tires; my speedo now reads about 8MPH low. 91 MJ, AW-4, 2WD, electronic speedometer. Do I have a speedo gear I can change out to correct the speedo error? If so, WTF is it? I can't even find it in my FSM. Damn sure isn't on the transfer case since I don't have one. Thanks.........

With a healthy fuel pump ballast resistor circuit, voltage at the pump should be 9-10 VDC after starting. The ballast resistor is bypassed during starting, then relayed in the circuit to drop the voltage to prolong the FP lifespan and hold noise down. Corrosion on the relay terminals, the ballast resistor, and the pump itself will cause a voltage drop, and cleaning them up will correct this. A raped ape will run only so far, then it dies from exhaustion :cheers:

Try pulling the chime module out. These modules can cause all kinds of wierd electrical problems when they go belly up. I had one go bad that caused the dash lights to go, the turn signals flashed one of the headlights, and other problems. Worth a shot......... :brows:

Thought I made that clear - no, I did not need it. The booster rod aligned perfectly on my pedal. But since your rig is pre-HO, I think you will need it. Check the threads on NAXJA, most everyone with 90 models and below needed the pedal assembly to prevent drilling, fabbing a mounting stud, re-wiring the brake switch, etc. Not a big deal, but I like to do things the easiest way. If you get everything from the 95/96 XJ associated with the booster and rod, it makes it easier.

Forgot one other thing. You'll also save some time if you get the 95/96 brake switch and mounting bracket w. the connector - saves fabbing your old one up.

Yes, the 95/96 booster/master is basically a bolt-in. If you pull it yourself, be sure to get the 1/4" aluminum firewall spacer plate, the prop valve w. the brake lines intact if possible (you can reuse the flare nuts) and the brake pedal assembly. Then you should have no problemos mounting the booster arm and the travel will be right. How it mounts varies if it's ABS or not, and of course auto or manual tranny. I got all this stuff when I swapped mine out, but did not the pedal assembly and resold it on Ebay.

BTW, the 95/96 XJ ABS and non-ABS boosters are the same but carry different part numbers. The dealership mechanics use either one as replacements in either system, according to a Mopar tech bulletin.

Dakal; Definitely not a 95/96 booster from an XJ. Is there a part number on it? I can look it up for you.

I think that's the coolant temp sensor. BTW, knock sensors were a Renix thing; the 4.0L HO engines starting in 1991 did not have knock sensors. Here's a good site that tells more than you ever wanted to know about Renix sensors: http://tinyurl.com/2md8a5

Having the second horn wirs "hanging" is fine, as long as it's insulated. But you had that 2nd horn wire grounded for quite some time, right? I think your current problem might be related to this, as your entire electrical system suffered shorting problems w/o blowing a fuse. Possibly this short caused an additional electrical problem. First thing I would do is have a load test done on your battery. If it checks out okay, you might done some damage to the alt voltage regulator. I'd start there first .............

Washer pump: 3 connectors. Fluid low-level sensor: 2 connectors. This is to the O2 sensor.

ECU location w. Diagnostic connector (in red rectangle)

Okay, it's here, an MSWord doc: http://freefileupload.net/file.php?file ... Shocks.doc

Yeah, but you have the best avatar on the forum. I have one of those guys living in my back yard. Eats my garden, cleans out my bird feeder, and has taken numerous direct hits with a pellet gun. Got to admire his bawls........ :D :D

X2. Would go with Rock Auto also. Was hoping Frank would chime in w. the part nos, as I will need the tranny fittings too. Jury rigged now, so far so good, but now I know where to get them. Thanks!

Long bed or short?

Glad you got it. Dayem, the Jeff-man should know better :cheers: :D The fuse should have blown though pulling that many amps. :nuts: Yeah, lose that "meep-meep" single horn and put something more manly in there. I stuck in a pair of huge 1965 Buick Electra 225 horns I had laying around - sounds like a city bus.

The second horn was an option, but the wiring is there for both. High and Low tone horns. And yes, definitely check for a ground from the load contact of your horn relay (disconnected from the relay) to both horn wires (also disconnected). Your relay just might be good.

Here's a schematic of the circuit:

I'm sorry UNL1MTD, I gave you bum dope. The horn relay IS near the fuse panel, (either taped into the harness along w. two other relays, or behind the kick panel, depending on year) in the cab. The part number (86-92) for it is J5764039, about $10 from the dealer. And according to my parts manual pic, it does have only three contacts. And here all this time I thought it was in the PDC. Again sorry........... :cry: And the horn is fused through the 25A Hd Lp Dly fuse (#11) in the PDC, according to my FSM.

X2. The horn relay is in PDC (at least on my 91), the cover tells which relay is for what.

On the NAPA site for "Transmission Oil Cooler Line" it shows NAPA sells them for your XJ. About $30/ea. NAPA part numbers BK 8111406 (Lower, Return) & BK 8155625 (Upper, Pressure) They don't sell the metal line that connects between the pressure side hose and the radiator. It runs along the bottom of the radiator. It's a dealer item.