HOrnbrod

Your post jarred a long dead brain cell - it just kicked in! :eek: Charlotte's Web :cheers:

X2. Since you have tried several masters, you can prolly rule that out. I've installed many used master cylinders and never had a problem. I think your booster is shot. The 95/96 booster/master is one of the best mods you can make; I'd do it now. Jeff, your master-to-prop valve brake lines look great, like original. Did you retain your load leveling valve and reuse the original combination valve (that's what I did), or use the XJ prop valve. Image Not Found

I'm saying swap the YEL and GRN wires on the fog light switch, and remove the BLU ground wire. GRN wire to the middle pin, YEL wire to either of the outside pins, and disconnect the BLU ground wire you have on one of the outside pins. It's causing a ground loop.

The power lead (GRN wire) should be attached to the center pin of the dash foglight switch. Then attach the switch ON 12V output to the relay coil (YEL wire) to one of the outside contacts. Then disconnect the ground (BLU wire) to the other side of the switch. Since the two outside switch contacts are common the unneeded ground ground wire provides a path to keep the switch indicator light ON.

I just did this on my 91. If it's already wired in for the stock system, you have a temp sensor (I think in the lower radiator on Renix models) that applies either a ground or 12V (when it senses a temp around 215*) to the coil side of your existing fan relay, energising your fan. The relay coil side is the low amp side, not the load side, so you don't have to mess around with additional relays and/or HD high amp switches. Just locate the output wire of the temp sensor that goes to the aux fan relay coil and parallel in your manual switch to apply either a ground or 12V, which the Renix uses. I just used an XJ rear defroster dash switch. Simple and works well.

Hey Bob, I'm sure the CC members will take a bunch off your hands mate. :cheers:

CRL will not quote a price unless you have an account with them. I don't. Does anyone have an account with them?

Just for the h$!! of it I inquired if the MJ POWR-Slider was still available from CRL. Their response was yes, but with a minimum order of 50. :oops:

I don't know Brent, it just looks too NQR. The rear legs take too much bed space, the top bar is a bit lower than the cab, and it tilts back toward the rear. I think it would look a lot better it you put some simple wedge blocks under the rear legs to tilt it forward equal with the cab back angle, then put blocks under the front to bring it up to roofline height. Aluminum would work. 8)

Agree. This seller on Ebay carries everything hardware wise for drum brakes at good prices. I've used him in the past when I had drum brakes: brownssurplus@echoes.net

If you are contemplating doing this to make your engine less complicated and/or for better fuel mileage you will be going from the frying pan into the fire. While our rigs are not well known for their incredible mileage, they are known for their relative ease of maintenance and reliability. Swapping out the ECU and FI system for a carbed engine is a giant step backwards IMNSHO. :cheers:

The original equipment MJ sliders were three pane. Electric sliders were never offered by the factory as an option, they were aftermarket and used to be sold by CR Lawrence, part number EPS700.

You know Tim I had that same surgery about twelve years ago. I had bone spurs on my neck causing constant pain on my left shoulder and could not use my left arm. The doc explained he could either do a bone graft using a piece of bone from my leg, or use a metal plate with screws. I opted for the metal plate, and was completely back to normal after about a month. The doc who did my surgery also developed the same problem about a year later but he opted to go the bone graft route. It did not work at all, made it much worse, so he had to have it done again using the plate. Now he's fine. How did you have yours done, and do you go back for regular xrays and checkups? I'm sure you do, but just maybe it could be part of the problem? I know the pain caused from neck bone spurs sucks.

Always glad to help mate. Love your avatar, and love the Pats, except when they play the NY Football Giants. :cheers: AAAAAAARG - sorry if it sounded aggravated. Maybe not enough HighLife yet. :cheers: Dayem, 1300? Freakin' amazin'. Time flie when you're having fun. I love this place..... :D

Hey man, you were looking for a cheap alternative. Yes I have and it works. If it's too cheapo, get the part from the dealer. Jeesh........

Twisty, I was going to suggest you mount it on the pillar, but noticed there's no pillar plastic to mount it to on your rig. :cheers:

The Gates p/n 28095 will interchange with this. You can get it here for $5.25 + shipping: http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/prt,64,28095

Yeah, but here's the rarest of the rare on FleaBay, a 1981 Commanche, item # 130212119030. Looks pretty good too, for an 81 Commanche. :cheers:

Unexpected healthy refund too due to the new higher education deductions the girls provide by attending college. Now that the weather's nice it's time to use those $$ and find a nice wrecked 97+ 4WD XJ with the 2.5 and 4.10 gears and convert my heap to 4WD. :cheers:

Spend a couple of bucks and CARFAX THE VIN! If it comes from north of the Mason Dixon, run away immediately. :cheers:

I don't think that will be an issue Twisty. Typically thermister temp sensors have a total resistance of 300 ohms across the scale, in your case 100* - 250*. Even the XJ/MJ dash SPST switches like the POWER/COMFORT switch has a resistance of less than two ohms, and that's if it's dirty. :eek: And the tolerance on the gauge itself is about + or - 3*, so it won't matter.

I also used the 4-pane CRL slider, the same window the factory used, but it required the gasket. But this was a few years ago.........

$20K! :eek: What are France's vehicle import laws? I think you could import one from the US east coast for half that space available. And we're both RHD countries.

Yes, the rear slider/window is glued in. But the gasket is not "just for looks"; applied sealer in the gasket inner and outer channels bonds the window frame to the body on both sides of the frame and makes it weather-tite.

I watched them do it. They used an electric heated curved knife with interchangible blades. They ran it around the gasket in and out. It melted the OEM adhesive, but did not hurt the gasket. It popped out the back side, then they cleaned up the gasket, re-applied the adhesive, placed it around the new slider and put it back in through the back. Also there were two mounting screws the had to drill in. No way I could have done this right. :eek: