HOrnbrod

If they are the same length, then what is different about them? They have a bend in them to allow more lock-to-lock tire clearance, and they are beefier. Pete has a thread somewhere explaining the install, but I can not find it. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4044&highlight=lca

Clark?? Good duty. Were you there for Pinatubo? Bad duty........... I was there for the big earthquake but left just before the volcano. Good move. I was at Subic at the time, and we took in refugee familys from Clark AFB. I had a house full of Clark USAF folks, and their pets when the mountain erupted. Unfortunately Subic took a worse hit from the volcano due to the accompanying typhoon which blew the ashfall south on us. Good times, I'll never forget it. :nuts:

Clark?? Good duty. Were you there for Pinatubo? Bad duty...........

Yeah Brett, we all have lots of advice, but it all boils down to the "over the rail". This is not the norm for spray on bedliners, and for sure this guy should have warned you about the possible consequences (and the extra charge), unless he's never done one like this before. If the previous body work you had done and the prep and paint for the bed sides was done properly, no way pulling the masking tape should pull the paint off. If the "over the rail" job was not requested, this looks like it would have been a bang-up job. Still too many $$ though, IMHO.

You know, if you are considering lifting your rig later on and installing bigger tires it might be worthwhile to consider installing WJ LCAs now to prevent tire rub later. They are the same length as your stockers, and can be used (after a little fab work) pre-lift/tires w/o affecting your alignment. Just an idea...........

Oh, and mine was a long bed.

Ouch! I think you were raped. I had mine done 18 months ago by a LineX here, but not the "over the rail" part; just up to the bed inside edges and the inside tailgate. $280 + tax. I'm sure the prices have gone up, but I wouldn't think that much. :eek:

eh. my dad daily drives a renault 2.1 comanche. it's a pretty reliable vehicle most of the time. the only bad factor is replacing the starter...which goes bad often. other than that, it's not a big problem. he's gotten up to 35mpg with it, and it's 4wd with 5 speed, 4.10 gears, and AMC20 rear. The AMC20 sounds good. :cheers:

Planet reference was "Earth first, we'll log the other planets later". Nothing derogatory meant. But the search function does work, i.e. type in cluster AND gauge AND swap AND idiot (for idiot lights) :D That's why the DIY section needs updating and topics defined, even if "borrowed" from other forums, and/or search the other forums, like NAXJA. Makes it easier for everyone. Just tired or repeating, repeating the same stuff over and over.

Errrrrr, what planet are you from?? Have you tried searching? Many many posts on this topic. :eek:

Might be nice to have simply for the rarity in the States. They are very common export models in Europe and the Middle East. But I'd pass; the engine is a stone, unreliable, and a parts nightmare. Parts are hard to find and expensive. And diesel fuel cost is crazy too. Love to have a diesel MJ, but a conversion, not the Renault.

Yeah, that's cool if the MJ has the trailer tow option. Veeeerry rare, like 95% do not.

USN Retired FT Chief (E7) Sea duty on diesel subs Dogfish and TUSK, surface craft frigates Yarnell, Belknap, and Pratt. One Nam cruise, many Med cruises. Shore duty at USNWS Yorktown, Korea, Subic Bay, Singapore, Yokosuka, Guam, and of course No-flock, VA.

ARRRRRGGGH - is that a pharte can or a 6" exhaust tip??

Pull your left side tail light and see if the ground lug is still connected and/or corroded. This is where the rear lights are grounded.

From a previous post of mine: I just finished installing one on the back of my camper shell. The wiring for the 3rd brake light is a bit trickey. Because the MJ uses two bulbs in the tail lights for the brake light, and these same bulbs also are for the turn signals, the third brake light will will flash in time to the turn signals when you have the brake pedal depressed (unless your rig has the trailer tow option, which is already wired for an aux brake light ). There are two ways around this. One is to get your 3rd brake light feed directly off the brake pedal switch before the wire goes up in the column to the multi-function switch (preferred), or use a logic module, $5.00 from JC Whitney. The module takes inputs from the left and right side brake light and provides a single wire output to the 3rd brake light. Could probably do the same thing with a couple of diodes.

This sucks more than anything that has ever sucked before. "Beavis and Butt-Head" (1993)

Great song. But I much prefer the original by Harold Melvin & the Blue Notes, circa 1972. One of the all time greats.

I've got a couple of redneck friends down here who would be happy to do that for a beer or twelve. :cheers:

You can also get them in the HELP! section of your local AutismZone or Advance Auto.

Question Eagle: On the HOs in the WOT mode, the ballast resistor is bypassed and the full 12V is applied to the fuel pump by the ballast bypass relay located near the PDC. Do the Renix fuel delivery systems have this bypass relay?

Another thing you can do is check the resistance across the injector terminals. The reading should be approx. 14.5 ohms. If not, the injector should be replaced. If okay, disco the coil wire and place a 12V test light across the injector terminals. The light should flash when cranking the engine.

No, Bond was associated w. the Walther PPK, another nice piece. The P38 was basically a replacement for the costlier, less reliable Luger.

Nope. It is there for a reason. The 87s (XJs and MJs did NOT have it, and people complained that the fuel pump was making too much noise. So for 1988 they added the ballast resistor to reduce the voltage to the fuel pump, which makes it run slower, which makes less noise. The fuel pump and regulator are exactly the same for an '87 and an '88. You will NOT damage anything by soldering those two wires together. Yes, after the engine starts and the ballast resistor is relayed into the fuel pump circuit, it causes an operating voltage drop of about 2-3 volts that causes the pump to run slower and quieter. But running slower means less amp draw, less heat generated by the pump motor, which equates to a longer pump life. Basic electrical theory. I'll keep the ballast resistor in the circuit.

Excellent summation. Building a stroker yourself requires LOTS of homework and education. I left it to the experts, and opted for the crate 4.5L Hesco stroker, bored .030 over, factory RV-O-B cam, and the ported head. Excellent streetability, tons of HP and torque, and backed with the best reputation and guarantee in the country. Three years later w. zero problems, no lessons learned the hard way, to moi it's the only way to go. Ain't cheap though.............