HOrnbrod

I've been here awhile, and agree with all the above. There's a good blend of old-timers and new-comers here, the old-timers willing share their experience; the new guys suck it up and often show a better way. It's a specialized forum dedicated to the improvement of our MJs, and although we all choose to go in many directions to improve/modify/upgrade our respective rigs for our own respective goals, most every CC member listens, offers suggestions, and/or rags the posts (in a constructive way of course :D ) for the common good. I'll always be here, and will do my part as best I can to contribute to the common good of this super forum. :cheers: And hey CW of-the North, thanks for starting this thread mate.

Yeah, it belongs there. :cheers:

As above, you will need the wiper delay module box (just plugs in the harness under the column), a new multifunction stalk w. the delay feature, and a new wiper switch w. the intermittent wiper feature. It's a bear to get out as the column has to be ripped apart to get to it. And a used one will probably be worn out and/or broken when you get it out. I used a new switch from the link below, p/n 56000032. Your existing non-intermittent wiper switch will not work as the internal switches are different and there are not enough wires (you need seven wires) to the delay module. http://thejeep.com/shop/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=xj+wiper+switch

Don, How do you manage to sneak these DIY threads in with out me seeing them? First the window fluid bottle in the fender; now this. LOL :D . I don't know, but I post 'em all up. :cheers:

I prefer the higher quality Bosch Porsche/VW interior lights; http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5929&highlight=porsche+lights

I know the 1993 and below Chevy S10 tailgate handles are interchangible with the MJs (I have a chrome one from an S10 on my MJ :D ); maybe someone makes a lockable handle for the S10s that would bolt on an MJ tailgate? There are lockable tailgate handles for the newer p/u tailgates.

Naw, that would be tacky. They'll be painted the same color as the hood. :cheers: You're chroming the hood? :hmm: Dayem! Not you too Pete. What is this forum coming too? :cry: Next even Eagle, the grande olde farte himself, will be making chrome wisecracks. :mad: But Eagle's got good taste, so maybe not..............

To bench calibrate the XJ/MJ temperature gauges, I use two decade boxes (one to simulate the thermister sender resistance; the other to simulate the cal. resistor on the gauge) and a 12V power supply. The factory tolerance is only ± 7.5% accuracy, and accuracy is affected by even small corrosion resistances between the sender and the gauge terminals and/or by calcification on the sender water probe itself. So even it's spot-on on the bench, there can still be accuracy problems on the vehicle. Most inaccuracy problems can be cured by making sure all wiring connectors are clean from the sender to the gauge terminals on the back of the cluster, and making sure the gauge mounting screws are tight. They seldom go bad, but don't expect them to be right on, because they are very cheaply manufactured units.

Naw, that would be tacky. They'll be painted the same color as the hood. :cheers:

Actually these came off an Brit Export Orvis ZJ, but it's the same vents as the US 1998 ZJ 5.9. The Export Orvis XJs had them too. Hard to find them here w/o buying the whole hood (unless you're lucky). :eek:

Most likely your Neutral Safety Switch. Try cleaning it here: http://www.jeepin.com/features/nss/index.asp

WooHoo! Scored a nice pair of Jeep Export ZJ hood vents w. the drip pans for cheap. Been looking a long time for these. :cheers: Image Not Found Image Not Found

The grille did catch my eye Bob, only because it's ugly. At least the guy could have put a chrome bumper on the back too, and maybe some chrome door handles and mirrors... :D I do think an MJ monster truck like Bigfoot (taller than the pic above) would be nice though, and great PR for our rigs. Anyone ever seen one?

:agree: Glad you got 'er done. :cheers:

If Wildman Bob is talking about the Transmission Control Unit (TCU = AW4 box), it's tucked up under the lower dash panel on the passenger's side. I doubt you would have disturbed that, but there is an inline fuse in the wiring harness that connects to it that you might have blown that will affect the AW4 shifting and possibly kickdown.

No, that's not a good idea, I understand why you want to do this, but one of the reasons the axle "Hub" fits into the wheel rim is for added support, if your rim is out past the hub, then your resting all the vehicles weight on just the 5 studs. One of the reasons that people don't use wheel spacers. Also, aluminum rims suck up more threads on your wheel studs, and combined with the spacer washers you are talking about using, your studs will be too short for adequate thread engagement. Plus no hub support. Recipe for disaster mate. :eek: :eek:

Is that were the sender is for your guage in the dash...i have lazered mine near the thermostat and it read 200* but the dash was reading 205* b/c the sender is located at the back of the head and not in the thermo-housing This was my reading at the stat housing as Chico asked for. My laser reading at the gauge sender was a bit lower, 198*. Next time I have my cluster out I'm going to calibrate my temp gauge. :D

Yeah, I'm familiar with that post Mini. I added the last two posts on that thread (comanche91). I didn't have to do any bracket grinding whatsoever to fit this alt into my 91. The only conclusion I have is that the 91 alt brackets must be different than the newer model brackets.

That's a good article Don, thanks. So, I guess I'm looking for an alternator that's 130 Amp? There's no battery/alt shops around me. Can anyone recommend a good alternator for an 88 4.0 and place to buy it? (Napa's out of the question.) Well, I take that back about you "can't" use the 136A ND alternator I used on your Renix. The below vehicles all use this alternator: 1997-1998 Dodge B.Series Van 1997-1998 Dodge Dakota 1998 Dodge Durango 1997-1998 Dodge Ram Pickup 1997-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Part # OEM PN:56027913 These are available on Ebay all the time. To make it work you would have to get the alt. brackets at the junkyard from a 91+ XJ/MJ w. the 4.0L engine. AND you'll need to wire in an external voltage regulator since the 91+ XJ/MJ regulates the alternator with the ECU. There are writeups on NAXJA from guys who have done this. Might be easier though to get your existing Delco alt rewound for a higher amp output, although I have no idea how mmany amps that would be.

201* with my laser thermo when my dash temp gauge is reading 210*. And I "calibrated" my laser thermo with a mercury thermometer in a pot of boiling water. :eek:

X2. It's a major PITA especially if it's much larger than the one you're replacing. But maybe we're not as talented as the Mini-man. :cheers:

Here's the one linked below that I put on mine to drive the 100w halogen lights, electric fans, blower motor, etc. A 136A from a ZJ V8. Unfortunately Chico it's won't work on your junk because it's a Renix. :oops: http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2004/jeepalt/

Dayem, why don't you guys say how you really feel! I think it looks like crap also. :D Got the black interior though..........

Check out this XJ with 37s. It would be nicer with an MJ body sitting up there.... :cheers: http://tinyurl.com/579mlq

Might be a good time to convert to rear disks, no? :cheers: