Redramman

MJ is spring under axle XJ is spring over axle so I don't think they interchange without spring perch relocation modification. They just meant use an XJ leaf as an add-a-leaf, not sure if adding an XJ leaf is better than an MJ leaf???? :hmm:

Thanks the bearings fit realy tight ended up hitting the shafts with plastic tiped hammer alternating between the two to sort of wiggle them with a little extra force.

Still working on the AX5.I'm taking the trans apart ,Tail(Adaptor housing) is off,bell housing off, front bearing retainer and 4-snap rings off.Trying to separate case from Intermediate plate but it only moved 1/8" .I can see some broken parts in botom of case but it seems to be hanging up on one of the front bearings.Are the bearings suposed to come off first??? or are holes in case made to slide bearings through???. In the Chilton book it looks like they slide through once all snap rings are off.

I have the bearing retainer cover off and already removed four snap rings one from each of two shafts, one from around each bearing.Are the holes that the bearings fit into the same diameter all the way through??? If they are then the case should slide off over the bearings but for some reason it only moved 1/8" then got caught or stuck on something.:hmm:

I'm taking the trans apart ,Tail(Adaptor housing) is off,bell housing off, front bearing retainer and 4-snap rings off.Trying to separate case from Intermediate plate but it only moved 1/8" .I can see some broken parts in botom of case but it seems to be hanging up on one of the front bearings.Are the bearings suposed to come off first??? or are holes in case made to slide bearings through???. In the Chilton book it looks like they slide through once all snap rings are off. :wall:

:agree: Good Idea for when nobody is around :agree: After looking at pictures again I notice that reservoir looks like it's not removable on that year.

My Son likes it because "it's not a ranger or an S10".

Did not have too much trouble on the 1990 but I think the nut was on the inside of cab I remember holding the bolt head while Son took nut off with socket under dash.Replaced it before it leaked all over fuse block Just a few drips in boot. Removing the line first might help, the reservoir can be removed to get to the line.

I'm going to take it to parts store machine shop to see what they say .I hate to spend $56 on a $20 job. I don't know if Jeep just wants to sell more parts or what???

If you get the hi-pinion front axle then the t-case drop probably won't be needed(I think) .I'm not sure about rear drive shaft angles But I don't see that to be as much of a problem because rear drive shaft is longer.

Thanks Hawk!

:dunno: Drive shaft angles and length are a concern with taller lifts.Alot of companies offer 6"-6.5" lifts Check out how they address this .Suspension travel plays a big role here.What I would do is check drive shafts for binding or over extension with body on jack stands and suspension at full drop( wheels might have to be removed to achieve this).Unbolt drive shaft from axle and see how much extra length the splines will extend.Hold the end of shaft below axle while turning to see how much more height or travel till it binds.When you put spacers in pull out the coils and raise axle to check drive shaft and shock compression and bump stops(compressed length is probably more of a concern if you do the T-case drop).If you put on longer shocks the suspension will drop more, (unless you have limit straps),but possibly compress less depending on bumpstops.Basicly if you drop T-case you might need longer 4-links(probably a good Idea any way with that much lift) or longer bumpstops to keep drive shaft from pushing T-case back and cracking it at full compresion. On my Ram I did some minor grinding to clean some extra flashing off the front CV-Ujoint yoke just enough to stop binding at one spot at full drop.

:yes: Flux capacitor :rotf: :hijack:The Ninja 5000!?! Will that fit on the worlds fastest Comanche?

Hawk did you make those XJ front fenders those are cool. If the truck is going rock crawling or serious wheeling then cut it and make bumper go around the corner,but it is a nice looking bed :dunno:

Bad ground or wrong bulb.

OMG DUDE! Thats a trophy truck as in $150,000 worth of mods!, Just the Black Hawk shocks are well over $1000 each. Camburg or Carlie or posibly KORE might have an MJ suspension for around $4000 that would let you drive about 1/3 that speed not sure though. Cool vid .I want some reservoir shocks for my Ram .Check out www.jeepspeed.com

:dunno: Does the motor mount bracket also un-bolt from the block? Oil filter neck? do you have an oil cooler ?

Maybe that wire plugs into the mysterious electrical box in a post titled:"What be this electrical thinger?"by DirtyComanche. They thought it was for day time runing lights or automatic trans control module.

My uncle had a 1980something Thunderbird with digital spedometer and it was anoying because when the sun shined in the side window you could not read it.

Comanche Flywheels can't be resurfaced,so why when you order a replacement do they want your old one for a core??? and the description talks about precision machining??? http://www.partsamerica.com/productdeta ... 67&PTSet=A

Do the 4x4 MJ front axles use a vacume disconect?

Yea, Haynes and Chilton only give some vague info but it's better than nothing (most of the time). The cast iron mid plate is sealed to trans with Orange permatex type sealer,can I use Ultra Black RTV ??? or what is recomended?

Yea, Haynes and Chilton only give some vague info but it's better than nothing (most of the time). The cast iron mid plate is sealed to trans with Orange permatex type sealer,can I use Ultra Black RTV ??? or what is recomended?

On my Ram 4x4 the truck needs to be rolling at least 5-10' with wheels pointing strait.you could shift to 2wd just before stoping and then it should disengage axle when you back up the next day. Because turning in 4wd causes some binding its hard for axle to disengage while turning,or accelerating.

On my Ram 4x4 the truck needs to be rolling at least 5-10' with wheels pointing strait.you could shift to 2wd just before stoping and then it should disengage axle when you back up the next day. Because turning in 4wd causes some binding its hard for axle to disengage while turning,or accelerating.